B-block cylinder heads?

-
B

BoredandStroked

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2006
Messages
474
Reaction score
4
Location
New Market , AL
Hey as many of you may know I am building a 383 and I am not very knowing of the performance parts for a big block. I was looking around for cylinder heads and really... besides expensive there are alot of them. But to save money anyone know of a good place that can port my 383 heads (out of a 63 Chrysler) out to the max? How about aftermarket heads... inexpensive yet flows like the Mississippi and has a small combustion chamber (between 72-80cc)? Anyways thanks and for some help I am working on this engine to put in my 73 Dart (-3000lbs), 727 trans, and an 8 3/4 rear. Thanks alot and dont be shy I am looking for any help.
 
I`ve heard the Eddie heads provide a lot of bang for the buck! Personally I don`t know, I`m running a ported set of 906`s.
 
D & L Automotive & Machine has the flow bench and the experience to make your early mopar iron flow. 806-655-5588
 
To get a set decent set of ported street heads, it'll cost you around a thousand dollars and the aluminum eddy;s are $300 more. Do the math. Buy the new technology not to mention a nice weight reduction in front up high (the best place on your car to remove weight). Unless you're more interested in the "stock" look, buy the Eddy's.

don
 
The cheapest ones are the iron heads completely redone. But, if you take a set of cores and do everything they need you will be spending at least $1000. That's using stainless valves and name brand (Not MP) springs, keepers and locks. Add porting, and you have a set of irons that cost the same as a set of alumiuynm Edelbrocks. But are heavier, arent closed chamber, and flow maybe slightly better (depending on the porter). It's money. You will spend it either way. The next step is Indys or the MP Edelbrocks. The MP ones are easier to bolt on because they use a straight spark plug, so they fit most common domed pistons and headers out there. I wouldnt use you 63s at all. Either find a set of 516s cheap and do them (but I would limit the exh valve size to 1.74) or buy a set of edelbrocks.
 
Ramcharger I know you love to spend my money lol. Only bad thing is I am not making that much right now and I know Indys perform like a bat outta hell.

Alright got a question and link to the company.

http://www.hughesengines.com/partResults.asp?eTypeID=14&pType=CH

So what do you think of their selection and porting choices?
I actually like the Aluminum Max Wedge heads. 75 cc combustion chambers and 310cc runner flow for only 2095 assembled and capable to handle a ".650" roller cam. Only problem is... would Max Wedge heads fit on my 383?

If not what about their Eddys or other selections? I am looking for around 600+ horsepower out of my 383. But I dont want to spend my life savings on it. I am going to give Hughes a call tomorrow afternoon after I get home from school and find out what will work and what wont. But I want your opinions!
 
Look a little closer, those are Indy heads!

Good question regarding fit as I have limited big block experience. I'm sure Hughes or the other guys here will know if a special intake/valley pan would be required.

The port flow may be excessive for your targeted displacement. Why not build a stroker?
 
His heads may actually be closed chamber.... remember this is a 63' 383 and for what he needs port velocity is important as well.
 
Yes I know they are Indy heads, but so is the ones I chose. The guy at Hughes Engines that I called was very very helpful and gave me alot of advise and knowledge. Number one there is actually only one intake manifold avaible for the Max Wedge heads. Thats the cross ram intake from Indy. They dont flow any better then 440 EZ heads. Here is the flow chart I wrote down from what he told me.

Lift CFM flowed
100 66 77
200 130 138
300 193 208
400 248 257
500 284 293
600 320 319
700 318 328
Max Wedge 440EZ
(super prepped)

That was on their own flow bench for both heads, not someone elses. The 440EZ heads that are "super prepped" (325cc) come with a push rod kit, 1 piece valley tray, all the hardware and it accepts standard rocker arms, also has a 75cc combustion chamber. So thats it!

Also, I am building a stroker. 383 "B" block made into a 431 or 438 depending on bore size. Look at the August 2006 issue of Mopar Muscle and that is what I am looking to beat, without breaking it like they did.

By the way, the guys at Hughes will help you out with anything and they do know what they are talking about. They build engines and dyno them to see which parts work with each other and which ones just plain suck. So if you need a cam or an intake or anything and want to know a good way to get some horsepower out of it... in my opinion they are some good guys to call. Plus they only deal with Mopar so its like a bunch of long lost cousins of ours lol. Thanks guys!
 
Ah the chart didnt come up the was I intended. Here is another go around.

Lift..... CFM flowed

100..... 66..... 77
200.....130.....138
300.....193.....208
400.....248.....257
500.....284.....293
600.....320.....319
700.....318.....328

.....Max.......440EZ
...Wedge....Prepped
 
I wouldnt use any -1EZ based head on a 383. I'm guesssing at some point you will need to make power below 5000 rpm. Those heads are way too much. The std port window SR EZs are even a little much for a 383 IMO, and those are the lowest flowing aluminum heads Indy makes. I would be looking at Edelbrocks for a cost vs return standpoint, and the fact they will flow enough air in modified form to feed a 600hp 500+ inch engine. The heads you are looking at will make more hp at peak, but peak on that 383 will be close to 8000 rpm depending on the cam selection. As far as Hughes, buyer beware.
 
I agree with Moper, Too much head is no good. If your going to spin that motor past 7500 you'll need to work on the oiling first!
 
No offense intended but why do you think I had another thread going on about what oiling mods need to be done, Robbie? Want to give me some advice on that its under the same section this one is in. Good to know someone knows that the oiling needs to be changed so help the young kid out lol.


" The next step is Indys or the MP Edelbrocks." (in #7 under this thread)

Edelbrocks also have an angled spark plug so header clearance is a MAJOR issue in an A-body. Know of any headers that were made to fix this problem? What problems have you encountered from dealing with Hughes?

Yes I do know that power below 5000 will probably be none at all. But then again I am building a drag racing Dart that I will take to about 3 events during each year. Carlise, Nats, and the local Cumberland Cruise. So what conclusion can you make on how to build a "low" reving 383 with enough gitty up to get me down the track at 10 clicks of the clock.
 
I know this is a reach but you maybe able to find someone local that can port and polish the heads you got. I did my own 452's but I know a guy local up here that charges about $600 to go to an equivalent stage 5 porting and bowl blend mostly uning the templates. This way fit isn't a concern and you don't loose the bottom end. As far as oiling, I'm using the MP high volume oil pump= 80psi cold - 60psi hot.
 
My point about the heads earlier is that alot of early "B" engines like 67 and back 383s were the small exhuast closed chamber head like the 516 castings (no expansion cup on the end). These are a little thin on the exhaust bowl pocket near the water but will flow great with 2.08 /1.74 valves and "modest" porting. Dunno what elevation you want to run 10s at but build it to have decent driveability and around 400 ponies and just put a 200 shot on it for the extra second and a half you are looking for..... Should only have to spray on the top end anyway.
 
Same elevation as Mason Dixon dray way lol. Its around 400-600 feet above sea level I think, you would have to ask someone else other then me that leaves around the WV, PA, MD, PA area. Take a look at my other forum Mguner, "383 Knowledge anyone?". Tell me what you think.
 
BoredandStroked,
From my calculations you'll need a head with 196cc's of port volume and 314 cfm's of air flow. If this seems small it really is but you don't have much of a engine either, as you basically have a large bore 318. A 318 has a stroke of 3.31 and a bore of 3.91 where as the 383 is 3.38 and 4.25 so camming and headding can easily be over done. I have a engine that makes 535HP in a 400 CI engine which is a larger bore but the same internals of a 383 and I only have a a set of heads that are 184 cc's on it. They cost about $700.00 total with springs, retainers, and locks, as for valves they are MP as they are made by Ferrea which is one of the best that you can get. I used a small hyd. cam so to keep the streetability and was able to race with it also. The heads are 452's with some minor work. I guess that it's a matter of preference if it's aluminum or iron heads. You may want to take a look at the new Max Wedge heads that are iron from ma mopar they come 190-195 cc's from the factory and have the same chamber that the eddy's have and you can get them for $400.00 or so from Mopar each bare, but you would still be ahead as you can get better parts to suite your needs, than what eddy's have. Also from experience that the eddy's have to have some work done before they can be used anyway, you'll be that much further down the road with more $$$ in your pocket. The nice part about the new heads is that they use all standard parts as in valve train, intakes and exhaust, and flow better out of the box than a worked set of stock heads and are better than eddy's other than weight IMO.
 
BoredandStroked said:
" The next step is Indys or the MP Edelbrocks." (in #7 under this thread)

Edelbrocks also have an angled spark plug so header clearance is a MAJOR issue in an A-body. Know of any headers that were made to fix this problem? What problems have you encountered from dealing with Hughes?
Click to expand...


The MP vesion uses straight plugs... Hence the recommendation :)

The only real dealings I had with Hughes were for a cam and a set of "ultra light" solid lifters. I saw it on the "clearance" section on thier website, ordered the cam, and added a set of top dollar ultra light weight lifters from them. I called again fro some other info on a set of heads a friend bought. They had soem issues my shop advised me of, so I called and asked the rational behind the work that had been done. I was treated like a kid fresh out of highschool. Talked down to, and assumptions were made that what they were describing was so far advanced I could not possibly grasp the concept. Needles to say, I have that cam sitting on a shelf, and have for 8 years. It's a great grind IMO, and maybe someday I'll use it. But I figured maybe before I get the chance to install it, I might cross paths with the SOB on the phone, and I thought of a few choice locations in which to bury it on his person. My experience was just as the "real Chrysler cams" were introduced. Long before the internet chats and other stories of attitude issues came out. That same guy must still be talking to people. I will not run their products, nor endorse them. It's about all I can legally do to affect them.

ps- I've only seen one set of heads from them that performed "as billed". That is a set of small block heads that runs 11.70s on a 360. That was not the set I was questioning.

I agree with BJR and his airflow requirements. But CFM is not all about volume.
 
Exactly, thats why the cc's of the runner are smaller and this brings up the velocity. The heads that I'm talking about flow in the area of 335 cfm's when gasket matched and bowl blended with a 2.08 intake valve as the port has been redesigned, I ended up at 215 cc's intake port volume which is just 5 more cc's that the eddy's and flow much better with less work. The heads flow over 300 cfm's out of the box and are a very good looking cylinder head from my stand point, no extra slag or clumps in the ports and they are casted vary close to the gasket so not much work is needed. Mine were within .015-.020 of matching, most would say thats close enough, but I like all the advantages that I can get. The bowls are similar to the 346,452 heads with a rasied roof line and better short turn. They are a very good alternitive to aluminum heads and cost less. The intake would have to be a Mopar or the Indy and both are available, the mopar is cheaper and looks as good. I believe that Mopar has there's casted by Weiand, which is owned by Comp Cams, I may stand corrected.
 
Alright, well like I first said I am not very smart on Chryslers B or RB blocks and their performance parts. I didnt know the difference between an MP and regulars ones so I apoligize for that confusion. I am a kid (not even fresh out of high school) but that doesnt mean I am a complete moron so I know that feeling about being talked down to.

Another thing is nitrous. Would I need to change the heads or anything for it?
 
As I said, I stand corrected, Weiand is a part of holley and I am corrected you are the man.
 
You are building a stroked 383, right? This point was mentioned way up there, but most recomendations of heads have been talking about a 383 CU IN motor. I love this kind of bench racing, and read this with interest, but I think the fact you're going to stroke it may change peoples' suggestions.
A good head will flow the nitrous, I believe all you need is a cam that favors the exhaust duration a bit, and some have suggested a bit more lift there as well. Lobe separation is better for blown, and nitrous engines as well.
Over on Moparts, they've got a group buy going on E-brocks with CNC porting. I'm getting mine done, and they should ship to me soon. I know they sound like a good head for your app. I just don't know if they'd be in your budget, being a high school kid. $2K. PM me if you want the contact info.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top