"Back Space" question

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circlepilot

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This is an issue I have little experience with. I have a 8 3/4 going in my 65 Barracuda. We were going to pass on the installation and sell it, but that all changed. The banjo has been shortened (by the PO) which we have come to the conclusion was done for a special application. (Tubs?) From brake plate flange to flange is 49.5" The Axle flanges (5X4.5) are aligned with the center of the fender well. The distance from the leaf spring to the back of the axle flange is 4.5". I would like to run a 15" wheel that would allow me to mount the largest (street / strip 8" to 10" width tread) tire that I can. Will a wheel with no back space be what I'm looking for or is this going to require a wheel with either + or - back space?
Norm

barracuda rear end.jpg
 
do you know what brakes your going to use? that's going to matter too
 
I would put the axles, backing plates and drums (or discs) in place, beg borrow or steal any wheel that fits and measure from there to decide what wheel width and backspace will work. You can't really decide what you need without more assembly .
 
I would put the axles, backing plates and drums (or discs) in place, beg borrow or steal any wheel that fits and measure from there to decide what wheel width and backspace will work. You can't really decide what you need without more assembly .
I've had the assembly that far. 10" brakes and drums installed. My front (disc brakes Scare Bird) rotors are 5X4. I have a full set of 5X4 rally wheels (one of the reason for not wanting to use this particular 8 3/4 didn't want to mix, already down the road about A body axles. ) I'll head over to the salvage yard and get a Mopar 15" wheel. He has a Coronet over there with 15 inch wheels. Thanks.
Norm
 
10" Brakes.
10" x 2 1/2"? and how low you get it is going to matter too. it looks like the springs are in the stock location, are you thinking of moving them in? you can get another 1/2" with Dr diff hangers. or move them all the way to the frame rails. were you planning to buy wheels soon? i'd get the suspension done, get it on the ground with whatever wheels you can, then start measuring
 
Sorry, i didnt catch that the axles you have are the bbp. I have no way of knowing, but maybe your housing was a wider piece narrowed to use the original a-body 8 3/4 axles. They would give you the 5x4 that you want. Of course you realize there is a much wider selection of wheels for the 4 1/2 pattern.
I would suggest you talk to Dr Diff about your problem. Have all your dimensions of what you have, on hand so you can answer his questions. His reputation for help for mopar guys on this forum and b-bodies is absolutely solid gold.
 
10" x 2 1/2"? and how low you get it is going to matter too. it looks like the springs are in the stock location, are you thinking of moving them in? you can get another 1/2" with Dr diff hangers. or move them all the way to the frame rails. were you planning to buy wheels soon? i'd get the suspension done, get it on the ground with whatever wheels you can, then start measuring
Yep! 10" X 2 1/2"...the spring a 6 leaf from General in the stock location. I've considered the hangars also. I'm starting to get where I need to go with all the help here on the forum.
Thanks
 
Sorry, i didnt catch that the axles you have are the bbp. I have no way of knowing, but maybe your housing was a wider piece narrowed to use the original a-body 8 3/4 axles. They would give you the 5x4 that you want. Of course you realize there is a much wider selection of wheels for the 4 1/2 pattern.
I would suggest you talk to Dr Diff about your problem. Have all your dimensions of what you have, on hand so you can answer his questions. His reputation for help for mopar guys on this forum and b-bodies is absolutely solid gold.
The axles have been shorten and re-splined. SBP A body axles are too long (I have a set) so that is why I'm back to using these shorten axles, one thing for sure, I doubt that I would twist on off. Already got some stuff from Dr. Diff.
 
Got this headed in the right direction! The forum is awesome...I've been on here since 2014 and so has my build. I've have gotten some of the best help one could ask for.
Thanks to everyone out there.
Norm
 
makes no sense to me, to shorten a rear end, and then leave the spring pads in the stock location

Moving the springs would be a requirement for a tub
 
makes no sense to me, to shorten a rear end, and then leave the spring pads in the stock location

Moving the springs would be a requirement for a tub
Narrowing the rear without moving the springs makes sense, only if you have a pair of 'deep dish" wheels that you REALLY want to use, that won't fit any other way. I have a couple sets of old five spoke one piece mags that are just that way. They would work only on a car with a full radius wheelwell opening, or a narrowed rear.
Thats why they are on a shelf.
 
Measuring the backspace has nothing to do with the brakes. The rim mounts to the axle, and the backspacing is measured from the face of the drum, which is mounted to the face of the axle. Out a straight edge on the face of the axle, and measure from the edge that is on the face back to the spring and subtract at least an inch, more like 2” to allow for sidewall bulge in the tire. You can also measure from the same edge of the straight edge to the wheel lip or outer wheel tub to get the maximum wheel width.

look up my post on MeMikes thread about rebuilding a Victoria, I included pictures and descriptions that anybody can understand.

1966 Valiant Sedan V8 Swap (Victoria)

Page 2 of this thread
 
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This is an issue I have little experience with. I have a 8 3/4 going in my 65 Barracuda. We were going to pass on the installation and sell it, but that all changed. The banjo has been shortened (by the PO) which we have come to the conclusion was done for a special application. (Tubs?) From brake plate flange to flange is 49.5" The Axle flanges (5X4.5) are aligned with the center of the fender well. The distance from the leaf spring to the back of the axle flange is 4.5". I would like to run a 15" wheel that would allow me to mount the largest (street / strip 8" to 10" width tread) tire that I can. Will a wheel with no back space be what I'm looking for or is this going to require a wheel with either + or - back space?
Norm

View attachment 1715583422

So with a housing that's 49.5" wide and BBP axles and drum brakes you should end up with a wheel mount to wheel mount axle width of about 54 11/16" with that shortened housing. Which means about 1-9/16" less backspace than what you would need for a standard A-body width 8 3/4 with BBP axles.

On my '71 GT I have a standard 8 3/4 A-body axle and BBP drums with the stock spring locations. It's 6" from the wheel mount back to the springs. Yes, that's a '71 but the axle perches are in the same place so the springs are too (quarter measurement is a whole different story though). So, on your car it should be approximately 4-7/16" from wheel mount to spring. Let's just call that 4.5". That's the total distance. Out of that you need a good 1/2" to the springs if you have 15" rims with a decently tall sidewall, to allow for flex. So, 4". Then you need to know the rim width and section width of the tire. Early A's are not my area of expertise, but from what I understand a 245/60/15 will be about as big as you can hope to go with stock wheel tubs. A 245/60/15 has a 9.5 to 9.8" section width on a 15x7" rim, those are the factory specs. Let's call it 10" if you mount it on a 15x8, should be safe. A 15x8" is actually 9" wide outside lip to outside lip, and backspace is measured to the outside lip. So, 1" more section width than rim width, 1/2" bulge per side. That gives you 3.5" for your backspace, which works out to a -25mm offset.

So, BALLPARK, you'd be looking at a 15x8" with a 3.5" backspace or a 15x7" with a 3" backspace, which is a -25mm offset on both those.

Now, like I said I'm not an early A guy. I know people have run 245's but not all of them may be able to get away with that. If you went with a 235 I would definitely run a 15x7" not a 15x8", and might consider up to a 3.25" backspace because the narrower tire will allow you to go a little closer to the springs because you can always add a spacer, but if you run out of space to the outside moving the quarter is a lot harder.

I would suggest assembling the brakes and measuring from the face of the drum back to the springs, as well as from the face of the drum out to the quarter because that will let you confirm these numbers for YOUR car. A wheelrite tool is nice, but you can do the measurements with a carpenter's square too. The rest is just math. Even the wheelrite tools aren't perfect, because tires that are advertised as being the same size differ in actual measurements from different manufacturers. For example, a 245/60/15 Cooper Cobra is 9.5" wide on the section width when mounted on a 15x7" per Cooper. But a 245/60/15 BFG T/A is 9.8" according to BFG.

Measuring the backspace has nothing to do with the brakes. The rim mounts to the axle, and the backspacing is measured from the face of the drum, which is mounted to the face of the axle. Out a straight edge on the face of the axle, and measure from the edge that is on the face back to the spring and subtract at least an inch, more like 2” to allow for sidewall bulge in the tire. You can also measure from the same edge of the straight edge to the wheel lip or outer wheel tub to get the maximum wheel width.

look up my post on MeMikes thread about rebuilding a Victoria, I included pictures and descriptions that anybody can understand.

1966 Valiant Sedan V8 Swap (Victoria)

Page 2 of this thread

Yeah, thats not true about the brakes. Or the 2" subtraction thing. If you know the measurement from the face of the brake back to the spring, the width of the rim and the section width of the tire you can actually figure out how much room you'll need, 2" is just a wild guess. It won't be enough if you have a wide tire on a narrower rim that has a lot of tire bulge. And it will be WAY too much if the section width of the tire being used is close to the overall width of the rim. In the OP's case, the size tires and rims he wants to run would work much better with about 1" subtracted from his wheel mount to spring measurement. Using 2" would mean losing at least a 1/2" of tire, possibly as much an an inch depending on the rim/tire combo. That's a lot of tire, especially if you're talking about fairly narrow tires to begin with.

You need to know which brakes because the SBP and BBP axles use different axle flange offsets, that's why that question was asked. The drum being on the axle also moves the rim out. And, if the OP is using disks instead of drums you need to know that as well, because they move the wheels out even further (usually around another 1/4"). In this case, knowing that the OP is using BBP axles, 10x2.5" drums and the width of the housing allows the backspace to be calculated from the stock spring location that he's using. So the brakes DO matter.
 
makes no sense to me, to shorten a rear end, and then leave the spring pads in the stock location

Moving the springs would be a requirement for a tub
I don't believe the "perches" are in the stock position, as the outside of the perches are now welded on a portion of where the axle bearing is housed. The banjo was shortened by someone, who no doubt, was "not" an armature welder.

banjo length3.jpg
 
I don't believe the "perches" are in the stock position, as the outside of the perches are now welded on a portion of where the axle bearing is housed. The banjo was shortened by someone, who no doubt, was "not" an armature welder.

View attachment 1715583875
Are the perches not in the stock position...or is the axle bearing not?

Easy enough to measure the perches, center to center, and that will answer that
 
Are the perches not in the stock position...or is the axle bearing not?

Easy enough to measure the perches, center to center, and that will answer that
Perch to perch they are in a stock A body posistion, 43" center to center, however they were relocated when the banjo was shortened. there are "tell tale" marks where the were originally located. From what I can ascertain, Not having a 8 3/4 uncut banjo to compare it with, the shortening was done right at the inside end of the axle bearing housing. I had to modify (re-shape) the outer u-bolts to fit the larger diameter of the axle bearing, housing portion of the banjo.
 
Perch to perch they are in a stock A body posistion, 43" center to center, however they were relocated when the banjo was shortened. there are "tell tale" marks where the were originally located. From what I can ascertain, Not having a 8 3/4 uncut banjo to compare it with, the shortening was done right at the inside end of the axle bearing housing. I had to modify (re-shape) the outer u-bolts to fit the larger diameter of the axle bearing, housing portion of the banjo.

then im guessing @33IMP is on the money, the rear end was narrowed for use in a non tubbed Abody with a set of nearly zero backspace rims the PO had on the shelf

man, i bet that would have looked killer, i love deep dish wheels
 
then im guessing @33IMP is on the money, the rear end was narrowed for use in a non tubbed Abody with a set of nearly zero backspace rims the PO had on the shelf

man, i bet that would have looked killer, i love deep dish wheels
Good information, once I get everything permanently installed. (removed it all) I'm fixing to shoot the "color" on the bottom of the chassis and engine compartment / firewall, then start with finalizing the suspension, paying attention to all of the recommendations on this thread.
Thanks
Norm
 
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