Need some opinions on this 360 I pulled out of my ramcharger. Has a factory four barrel intake, the 360 in my 73 d100 has some pitting in the number 8 cylinder wall. So now im considering using this engine. Would be using just the short block i have new heads cam oil pump etc. Was looking at buying a gasket kit that includes rings with rod and crankshaft bearings. I appreciate any suggestions on what steps I need too take to determine if I can go that route without taking it to a machine shop.
Backyard 360 rebuild
- Thread starter Sam_318
- Start date
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A real quick bead hone with some diesel fuel on those cylinders will give you a better look of their condition.
See how much of a ridge is at the top. If you pushed the pistons out without breaking any rings, that's a good sign.
Store your crankshaft up on end with the flex plate, so it does not warp laying on its side. Coat it with some oil as these jobs can sit around and start to rust if no protection is on them.
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See how much of a ridge is at the top. If you pushed the pistons out without breaking any rings, that's a good sign.
Store your crankshaft up on end with the flex plate, so it does not warp laying on its side. Coat it with some oil as these jobs can sit around and start to rust if no protection is on them.
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MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Nice, it has a tray in it...
Bore gauge is your friend.
Bore gauge is your friend.
Yeah it has a factory four barrel intake on it, wasnt sure if someone just swapped it. Also has a double roller timing chain that was really loose so im thinking its orginal. When I was taking the heads off I noticed my socket was tight between springs and it was not on my 73 360. I did look up the vin number and found a post on here of a guy who picked up a lil red express 360 my numbers are the same. But my block has numbers on the bottom skirt pad and from what I was reading lil red express blocks did not. Not sure what it came out of but pretty cool too know it was more then likely a factory four barrel engine.
Check with Mancini...
They offer some Clevite packages that might meet your needs.
They offer some Clevite packages that might meet your needs.
The date on the block is 12-15-78, believe its a 1979 block.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
when i had my challenger back in bout 96 i took a 400.. cyls looked good.. cut out the little bit of ridge, dingleballed it, put in new rings/bearings and beat the piss out of it for years til i sold the car. No issue with doing that at all..
(i wish i had done that with my current 360.. never getting the block out of machining at this point)
(i wish i had done that with my current 360.. never getting the block out of machining at this point)
Icetech
Well-Known Member
P.S. check your cam bearings... they are bad about flaking and falling apart (if you saw the ones in my current 318 you would wonder WTF! they are soo bad.. but was a temp motor..) If the bearings are crap spend the money for a hot tank/ridge cut and new cam bearing install.. and check that your cam goes in fine and spins easy and that the oil holes are lined up on the 4th? cam journal to oil the top end....
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
If really on the cheap Hone it and check ring gaps with feeler gauge after you determine what size rings to get . Check for bore taper same way. You are determining if it needs overbored and if the rings will seal and not burn oil etc. Its an educated guess with some basic math but it can be done
here is a quick AI description of the process I suggest looking into it further etc.
AI Overview
To measure engine cylinder bore and taper, insert the piston ring into the cylinder and use an old piston to square it flush with the wall. Then, slide a feeler gauge into the ring's end gap until you find one that slides with slight resistance. Repeat this process at different positions in the bore to compare measurements and determine taper
here is a quick AI description of the process I suggest looking into it further etc.
AI Overview
To measure engine cylinder bore and taper, insert the piston ring into the cylinder and use an old piston to square it flush with the wall. Then, slide a feeler gauge into the ring's end gap until you find one that slides with slight resistance. Repeat this process at different positions in the bore to compare measurements and determine taper
Im hoping I can get away with doing just that. I have some aluminum heads intake and a new cam. Not a good set up with the stock bottom end. But I do plan taking the 1973 360 in the truck now to the machine shop and building it too better accommodate my setup.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
Kinda wish i had done a truck.. i like the mid 70s when they are lowered and sitting good, i grew up building trucks with my brother but at the time it was 44's and all the mud bog stuffs
Yeah im big on trucks, this one i picked up has a 3/4 ton long bed. Orginal plan was to just get it running and drive has is that quickly snow balled. I got a pretty good deal on a shortbed frame and bed then that turned into lowering and changing the wheels etc. It has doug headers for an a body that fit it pretty well. I added an 8 3/4 to get away from the 8 lug and 1/2 ton hubs up front but still gotta finish the front.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
Very cool.. and yeah stuff has a way of getting away from you.. my car was gonna keep 2.94 gears and a stock 318 just to drive and enjoy... yeah.......
Yeah happens alot too me, im just trying to get by with hopefully just new gaskets rings and rod bearings. Thats only because this engine is not gonna stay in the truck. Its gonna cost a pretty penny for what I hope to do with the other block. Don't want this truck too sit while im doing that the current set up isn't going to be great but ill still be able to drive and enjoy the truck.Very cool.. and yeah stuff has a way of getting away from you.. my car was gonna keep 2.94 gears and a stock 318 just to drive and enjoy... yeah.......
Icetech
Well-Known Member
yeah.. sitting is what kills a project.. took me 2.5 years to get mine drivable, if i had waited longer it woulda been a dead project...
Mine changed when a buddy showed up with a free 8 3/4 pig with 4.57s in it.... well then.. i guess i will build a car i hate driving... again
Cleaned up some parts these past couple days. Today I took the pistons to work and threw them in the ultrasonic cleaner. Cleaned up pretty well, anyone have a good method on cleaning the ring grooves without the proper tool? I broke a old ring in half and tried that with carb cleaner, it did not clean completely and I was on one piston for about an hour. I plan on picking up a ball hone from summit hopefully this weekend so I can get a better look at the cylinders.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
I have never found a better way than using a broken off ring.. never tried though. usually just works
This was my result after an hour of using the old ring method. I didnt even get to the bottom groove, has my lunch break ended before I could attempt to.I have never found a better way than using a broken off ring.. never tried though. usually just works
Icetech
Well-Known Member
That should not be that hard... usually run the broken end around it a few times and it's clean... wonder if you could soak them in something to help but not hurt the aluminum
Icetech
Well-Known Member
Yeah I didn't think it should be. Im going to run them in the ultrasonic cleaner again and see if that helps.
Icetech
Well-Known Member
ah.. didn't know you had one.. you put dish soap in with them?
Put the pistons upside down in a coffee can with some diesel fuel for 24 hours to soften the carbon.
Then goe back with your brocken piston ring to clean the grooves with.
Seafoam works good too at cutting carbon.
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Then goe back with your brocken piston ring to clean the grooves with.
Seafoam works good too at cutting carbon.
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