Balancer?

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Icetech

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Can someone recommend a good balancer that doesn't mess up the pulley alignment? I finally after 2 years found a new rattler and it showed up with a chevy balancer in the box.. so i will get to fight about that. **** was almost $600 too... people suck. I specifically asked them to look and make sure the right one was in the box.

Was hoping to get away from rubber and liquid.. but seems thats the only choices, anyone know of a decent one that actually fits properly?

I am soo pissed right now.. coulda had my car back together with the stock one like 2 weeks ago.
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Can someone recommend a good balancer that doesn't mess up the pulley alignment? I finally after 2 years found a new rattler and it showed up with a chevy balancer in the box.. so i will get to fight about that. **** was almost $600 too... people suck. I specifically asked them to look and make sure the right one was in the box.

Was hoping to get away from rubber and liquid.. but seems thats the only choices, anyone know of a decent one that actually fits properly?

I am soo pissed right now.. coulda had my car back together with the stock one like 2 weeks ago.
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I know they serve their purpose, but I don't mess with those fancy dampeners. I use pioneer DA 7021 and am very happy with them. I also use the dorman brand, believe it or not...Just replaced the one I had with a new dorman because the rubber/ elastomere was a bit hard on the pioneer.. It ran for 19 yrs though before replaced.
With an internal balance engine, I call them dampeners. They aren't balancing anything.
 
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I know they serve their purpose, but I don't mess with those fancy dampeners. I buy pioneer brand and am very happy with them. Just replaced the one I had with a new one because the rubber was a bit hard. It ran for 19 yrs though before replaced.
No issue with pulley alignment?
 
No issue with pulley alignment?
None. The way to tell as if the water pump lines up without any shims. Power steering pumps always seem to need shims, or at least the particular one I'm using.. I have a couple washers between the bracketry and the actual pump... but the water pump pulley and the alternator line up perfectly fine right off the bat
 
i used this on my 360. worked out great. you don't say if it needs to be sfi approved or not.






.
 
i used this on my 360. worked out great. you don't say if it needs to be sfi approved or not.






.

No.. just a beater and figured i would get a better balancer for when the 408 is done
 
kinda curious if the trick flow and summit balancers are the same since summit owns them... $60 difference but look identical
 

I have a JEG's SFI balancer that was recommended by another member. Been good so far and I use stock pullies but I don't see it on their site. It looks just like a Pioneer SFI and maybe Summit carries the same one? I'd bet TrickFlow and Summit are the same balancer, different box.

Mine looks just like this, has extra timing marks and marked every 90 deg:

DODGE Pioneer Automotive 872037 Pioneer Race Balancers | Summit Racing
 
you know the model #? the only one i saw at summit is like $470 and not available
You know what. I just looked back in my records, and you're right... its out of stock and been oos for some time.. I went with a dorman, yes.. a dorman. 594-021 ..
89 bucks and has 30 degrees of timing marks. Unless I'm turning over 8,000 RPM and have a really whacked out combo of parts, I've never ever seen the need to put that money there. I have never had one come apart and I doubt I ever will. I realize this is not the race type part you would expect so I don't assume you'll take this recommendation.

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You know what. I just looked back in my records, and you're right... its out of stock and been oos for some time.. I went with a dorman, yes.. a dorman. 594-021 ..
89 bucks and has 30 degrees of timing marks. Unless I'm turning over 8,000 RPM and have a really whacked out combo of parts, I've never ever seen the need to put that money there. I have never had one come apart and I doubt I ever will. I realize this is not the race type part you would expect so I don't assume you'll take this recommendation.

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it's not so much bout being a race part as much as not trusting any rubber made in the last 20 years :) hell my tires on my jeep are 7 years old.. 30k miles and dry rotted worse than 30 year old ones on my 62 :)
 
it's not so much bout being a race part as much as not trusting any rubber made in the last 20 years :) hell my tires on my jeep are 7 years old.. 30k miles and dry rotted worse than 30 year old ones on my 62 :)
I can agree with that. Now what makes us think the $$$ ones aren't the same elastomere
 
ATI dampers (not dampeners) are the best on the market. They utilize friction damping (high damping coefficient). Rattler damper utilize springs and masses, and can be noisy upon shutdown. 65
 
ATI dampers (not dampeners) are the best on the market. They utilize friction damping (high damping coefficient). Rattler damper utilize springs and masses, and can be noisy upon shutdown. 65
the rattler noise doesn't bug me.. they literally don't make them.. i waited 6 months last time before giving up. i would order a ATI cept a lot of people post how pulleys are .150+ too far forward.. don't wanna deal with that
 
The thing about Mopar that really got me hooked, was that most of the factory stuff, was already better than everybody else's.. therefore I did not have to buy expensive parts or a ton of aftermarket stuff. The dampener or damper or round chunk of Steel bolted to the front of the crankshaft is the last place I put money unless it was damaged. Nobody's ever won a race because of dampener/damper necessarily, and to prove that the motor stayed together because of that particular damper is something unseen. We are talking Street strip we are not talking dedicated race car setting records so I don't want to hear any examples from that..and im not here to debate. Im just stating my point and preference. None of our motors have the amount of stress and vibration those engines have, in their street cars
 
I use a Fluidampr on the race engine and is smooth up over 9000 rpms . If you use a early cast pump style lower pulley on the fluidampr. everything lines up with a 70 up aluminum style water pump system. plus it is a smaller Dia. so its under driven.

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The thing about Mopar that really got me hooked, was that most of the factory stuff, was already better than everybody else's.. therefore I did not have to buy expensive parts or a ton of aftermarket stuff. The dampener or damper or round chunk of Steel bolted to the front of the crankshaft is the last place I put money unless it was damaged. Nobody's ever won a race because of dampener/damper necessarily, and to prove that the motor stayed together because of that particular damper is something unseen. We are talking Street strip we are not talking dedicated race car setting records so I don't want to hear any examples from that..and im not here to debate. Im just stating my point and preference. None of our motors have the amount of stress and vibration those engines have, in their street cars

For now i'm just gonna be mad for a few days and prolly stick the stock one back on.. the rubber isn't cracking even..screw it. just grrr
 
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