Ballast Resistor Wiring

[64Dart270]

I bought a new coil with a ballast resistor neatly attached to the mounting bracket. My intent was to neaten up the firewall while adding some killer spark power. What I did find was two 14g wires going into the resistor, and two 12g wires coming out. One wire goes directly to the coil+. The other runs the opposite direction across the firewall. I suppose I could leave the firewall resistor and splice off the hot Ignition wire running to the coil mounted resistor. But, not knowing the extra wires are running to/from, I don't want to start cutting (not having a diagram or any info).

Any input?

BTW it's a '64 Dart w/225 Slant

 

[abodyjoe]

 

[mopardads67]

you certanly can't beat that kind of info.Don't know about 64Dart but I'm printing this one out. Thanks Joe!

 

[abodyjoe]

you certanly can't beat that kind of info.Don't know about 64Dart but I'm printing this one out. Thanks Joe!

these may be better to print.. just scroll down to 71 dart.. http://www.automotiverewire.com/Navagation/documents.htm

 

[64Dart270]

Hmmm. So judging from this diagram the second heavy gauge wire (spliced to the coil+) should be a hot start circuit (bypasses resistor). At least that's the way I interpret it. I'm still not sure what the second 14g wire going IN to the resistor might be for. My car is a points type ignition so it wouldn't run to a module as shown. Maybe, I ought to simply use a blade terminal union, remove the resistor, run a new wire to the coil/ballast combo. Also running a second wire to bypass the resistor for hot start. Also it goes without saying, I'm an idiot when it comes to electrical.

 

[abodyjoe]

its easy enough to check with a test light but yes it should be start position bypasses ballast and run position goes through the ballast.

 

[64Dart270]

Thanks! That gives me a lot to go on!!

 

[67Dart273]

Referring to Joe's post, there are two wires connected to ignition.

One, traditionally dark blue, is "ignition run" or IGN1, comes from the IGN switch, through the bulkhead, and feeds the ignition, alternator field on 70/ later alternators, and the regulator. Electric choke if used, and possibly the dist. retard solenoid, don't remember

This wire goes to the resistor, then to the coil

The traditional brown is "IGN2" the resistor/ start bypass circuit, comes from the key, hot in "start" and ONLY GOES one place---either the coil side of the resistor, or in effect, the coil positive.

How you get down that highway is up to you. I see no advantage AT ALL in moving the resistor from the firewall. You may be subjecting it to higher temperatures than it sees now by moving it to the engine.

 

[BillGrissom]

Currently replacing my 65 Dart wiring. Similar to 71, but your colors are different.

Your "ignition on" wire (pink above), which normally powers the coil, is dark blue 16 awg. It runs from Bulkhead terminal B to the ballast resistor upstream side, where it shares the spade with a smaller 18 awg dk blu wire to IGN term of the voltage regulator.

The downstream side of the ballast resistor has a 14 awg dk blu wire to coil + (grn above). It shares the terminal with a 14 awg brown wire from Bulkhead term D (org above). That wire bypasses the ballast resistor by getting direct 12 V from the ignition switch when the starter is on.

I wouldn't cut any wires if you want to keep it original. Just remove your factory ballast resistor and run 2 extender wires from the terminals to your new ballast. They are standard "spade lug" connectors. You might put some heat shrink over the connections or wrap w/ silicone tape. I wouldn't get too fancy since a later ignition you add probably won't need a ballast.

If your wires are real bad or already hacked (like mine), you might run new wires from the bulkhead housings. You can get new terminals to clip in the housing, termed "56 terminals" or "Packard 56". They were used on many GM & Mopar. Squeeze the teminal lengthwise with needle-nose pliers to compress the lock and they pull out. Be careful unplugging the bulkhead or the plastic lock tabs will break off. Even if they do, friction should re-secure it fine. Be glad you don't have the later design where they routed the large ammeter wires thru spades instead of the separate large lugs you have. The later ones melted the bulkhead in many cars. Speaking of that, sand and apply silicone grease.

 

[abodyjoe]

Currently replacing my 65 Dart wiring. Similar to 71, but your colors are different.

Your "ignition on" wire (pink above), which normally powers the coil, is dark blue 16 awg. It runs from Bulkhead terminal B to the ballast resistor upstream side, where it shares the spade with a smaller 18 awg dk blu wire to IGN term of the voltage regulator.

The downstream side of the ballast resistor has a 14 awg dk blu wire to coil + (grn above). It shares the terminal with a 14 awg brown wire from Bulkhead term D (org above). That wire bypasses the ballast resistor by getting direct 12 V from the ignition switch when the starter is on.

I wouldn't cut any wires if you want to keep it original. Just remove your factory ballast resistor and run extender 2 wires from the terminals to your new ballast. They are standard "spade lug" connectors. You might put some heat shrink over the connections or wrap w/ silicone tape. I wouldn't get too fancy since a later ignition you add probably won't need a ballast.

If your wires are real bad or already hacked (like mine), you might run new wires from the bulkhead housings. You can get new terminals to clip in the housing, termed "56 terminals" or "Packard 56". They were used on many GM & Mopar. Squeeze the teminal lengthwise with needle-nose pliers to compress the lock and they pull out. Be careful or the bulkhead lock tabs will break off. Even if they do, friction should hold it fine. Be glad you don't have the later design where they routed the large ammeter wires thru spades instead of the separate large lugs you have. The later ones melted the bulkhead in many cars. Also, sand and apply silicone grease.

look at the picture a little closer. the original connector and colors are at the top of the page. the colors you are talking about were for the new connector when we re-wired the car. the basic wiring is the same no matter what color is used.

 

[BillGrissom]

the colors you are talking about were for the new connector when we re-wired the car. the basic wiring is the same no matter what color is used.

Sorry, I missed that. Good that the colors didn't change. I bet the factory wires weren't all 10 awg. That is only the 2 thick ammeter wires. BTW, a lot of people jumper across those to spare their dash (but disables ammeter). I am looking for a 100A diode to shunt it when >0.7 V (voltage drop I measure w/ alt full on), but not easy since those are big expensive suckers and need a heat sink. Most people change the ammeter to a voltmeter.

 

[abodyjoe]

I bet the factory wires weren't all 10 awg.

probably not. that was a after market (standard) switch...

 

[64Dart270]

I wouldn't cut any wires if you want to keep it original. Just remove your factory ballast resistor and run 2 extender wires from the terminals to your new ballast. They are standard "spade lug" connectors. You might put some heat shrink over the connections or wrap w/ silicone tape. I wouldn't get too fancy since a later ignition you add probably won't need a ballast.

That's about the route I took. I used male/male spade connector and simply removed the resistor, replacing it with the connector. A little shrink-wrap and done. I did however need to replace the coil+ wire since it was a bit over-cooked. Everything is now wrapped up neat, I individually taped the ALT wire then loomed it in and wrapped it with the others since it seemed to be a little hard in areas where the insulation ran against the coil+. As far as heat on the resistor is concerned, I hope I don't have any issues. However, it's a pretty beefy unit with a thick ceramic insulator.


A lot of good info. Thanks guys!