Ballast resistor

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tekslk

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What is the diffrence in the 2 prong ballast resistor? I see some have .25ohm .75ohm or 1.45ohm is one better than the other? I no nothing about ohms. I have a 67 barracuda electronic ign, burned out what looks like may be the original ballast tonight just wondering what to replace it with.
 
What is the diffrence in the 2 prong ballast resistor? I see some have .25ohm .75ohm or 1.45ohm is one better than the other? I no nothing about ohms. I have a 67 barracuda electronic ign, burned out what looks like may be the original ballast tonight just wondering what to replace it with.

The ballast should match the coil. So the waters are muddy. Here's the info right straight out of the 67 shop manual, with the coils and resistors ORIGINALLY used, so these are for "points" values

My 74 book, which is paper, is similar

Chrysler / Prestolite 2444242 coil, 1.6--1.79 ohms, 9400 to 1170 (must be 11700) secondary
Chrysler / Essex 2444211 1.41 to 1.55 primary, 8000 to 10200 secondary

Ballast (this is the dual one)

.5--.6 ohms (coil side)

4.75 to 5.75 for other side (feeds the ECU)

Below is screenshot out of my 67 manual.
 

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That doesnt help me much witch resistor should I use one with low or high olms, I have a old accell coil on the thing the old resistor worked great till it broke,ever here that before.
 
Well all you can do is contact Accel or go to their website and see what they specify. I'm not a magician. Either that or buy a new coil and use what is specified for it.

A few of the old Accel and Mallory high performance coils actually used MORE resistance than factory, IE you were supposed to use your factory resistor, and then add the Accel/ Mallory resistor in series. The old huge Mallory rectangular coil from the 60/ 70's was such a coil
 
Don't know which Accel coil you've got -- round "stock size/stock shape/stock bracket" or the big SuperCoil. Please specify. Also advise which electronic ignition system you're running. Regular Mopar or something else?
 
I got sick of all the garbage in the engine compartment, took out the garbage, installed an HEI and never looked back :)
 
I have a mopar electronic with the chrome box the coil is accel lround in chrome.
 
accel super stock coil in chrome it says 1400 ohm.

I looked it up. It's not 1400 ohms it's

primary 1.4 ohm
secondary 9.2K (9200 ohms)

This is nearly identical to the Chrysler / Essex coil in the chart I posted above. I say, use the factory equivalent Mopar resistor

I admit, it would be "handy" if Accel would recommend the proper resistance. In fact, I didn't find any listed in their catalog with a quick look.

And speaking of cats, I have to get cleaned up. Have to take my cat to the vet. She's not eating, lost a pound in the last month.
 
Sounds like you've probably got an Accel #8140. Probably better results with an 8145 (specifically intended for electronic ignition) but this what you have has been working for you and should continue to do so with an ordinary stock type ballast resistor such as a Standard Ignition #RU4, Airtex #6R1002, or NAPA Echlin #ICR23.
 
An opportune time to consider switching to an HEI module. Many posts here on that. You can lose the ballast and run a better e-core coil. I like the GM 8-pin module and coil. You can grab off any V-8 truck w/ TBI at the junkyard, and the cable connecting them. You might also grab the knock sensor and module if you later get an ECU to control spark timing (Holley, etc).
 
Pop a ballast resistor in an your done. Leave the GM BS in your camero.
 
When I switch to will probably be msd my brother has good luck with there stuff.
 
I've had pretty rotten experience with MSD's stuff even when it was made in America. Now it's made in China, the situation seems to be worse.
 
I would just go to stock type coil and resistor unless your running very high performance. Wouldn't be able to open my hood with delco parts under it since I am the only MOPAR guy in my crowd. But just to be safe keep a spare ballast in the glove box, its been a rule since I was a kid.
 
Thats what my dad told me in the 60s I had one but ordered 2 more.
 
I would just go to stock type coil and resistor unless your running very high performance. Wouldn't be able to open my hood with delco parts under it since I am the only MOPAR guy in my crowd. But just to be safe keep a spare ballast in the glove box, its been a rule since I was a kid.

Thank you....Plus it doesnt look like Azz.
 
Pop a ballast resistor in an your done. Leave the GM BS in your camero.

Since when did Mopar or GM make ignition boxes or resistors? They leave that to companies like Delco, Lucas, Motorola, ... Ditto on hose clamps, batteries, oil filters, and all the other parts that purists and judges fuss about. Now if you are running a private car museum, you should fuss. Most of us just drive.
 
Since when did Mopar or GM make ignition boxes or resistors? They leave that to companies like Delco, Lucas, Motorola, ... Ditto on hose clamps, batteries, oil filters, and all the other parts that purists and judges fuss about. Now if you are running a private car museum, you should fuss. Most of us just drive.

Bill,
Bottom line, the Chrysler electronic ignition is one of the best ignitions ever designed. Period. So if it ain't broke why fix it ? You can ***** all you want about the system,I have had Zero problems with it.
Maybe you got a car built on Friday ?

And yes, I am a purists. Not only is a good running car important,so is the appearance. And every GM conversion I have ever seen on a Mopar looks like ***.

And your right, most of us drive. Some just talk about it.
You know what I mean ?
 
Bill,
Bottom line, the Chrysler electronic ignition is one of the best ignitions ever designed. Period.

That's your opinion, apparently based on "Mopar rules! Everything else drools!", but that's all it is. It's not a supportable statement in terms of, like, facts and reality and stuff.
 
Contrary to your belief, Chrysler electronic ignition systems have provided millions of miles
of trouble free service to 100,000's of owners.

Not opinion, but fact.
 
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