-If you have it wired correctly, it may be normal. With the engine off, pop the cap and put a clean piece of paper between the point contacts. This will ensure the circuit is open.Then if you have a voltmeter hook it to the coil plus. Turn on the key. Immediately there should be near battery voltage there And no smoking, because the circuit is open at the points, and no current is flowing.If it still smokes, its not wired right. Somewhere, somehow that circuit is passing juice. But if the resistor is happy and not smoking then the points may have been closed at the time of smoking.
-Now getting back to "may be normal". In my experience NEW resistors seem to have a break-in period, during which they smoke. It only lasts a short while. Maybe a minute or so. And if they become contaminated, they will smoke again. That resistor is exactly like your electric furnace, in that, current passing through it creates heat. As the resistor heats up it resists the current, kinda like a regulator, and the voltage through it drops some. The oems used this effect to provide near full battery voltage to the coil when cold and tapering to some lower voltage over a minute or two to save the points from prematurely burning up.The idea worked for many decades. The points not so much. Eventually they require replacement; either the contacts burn up, wear out, or oxidize to the point of failing to connect, or the rubbing block goes away. They often require adjustment 2 or 3 times a year and can last several years before requiring replacement. But maybe not if you leave the ignition on.The electronic ECUs survive left-ons very well. But thats why the ig.sw has an accessory position.
-Back to the beginning; If it continues to smoke with the points open, theres something wrong. Could be a shorted condenser(very rare), or pinched wire at/in the dizzy,or even a shorted coil. Process of elimination.A VOM will be your friend, forever. Save a car get a VOM, learn how to use it.lol
Happy hunting.
