BB Valiant Suspension Setup for Drag

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mohni

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Joined
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Location
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Hey Guys,

my name is Mario from Germany.
I am the owner of a 69 Valiant with a 451 Stroker and A833 Trans. The Car is for Race only.
I think you know the previous owner tom from Germany. His Forum Name is wilde13.

I bought the car in 2024 and did some changes in the winter time.

This is the Setup now:

Best ET is 10.97

451 Stroker 10:1 with Trickflow 240 Heads
Solid Cam 246/250, 0.614 and 0.627 Valve Lift with 1.6 Rockers
950 Brawler Carb
A833 with Centerforce Dual Friction and V Gate
Ford 9" Rear End with 4.11 Spool
28x10x15 Slicks
Slant6 Torsion Bars
QA1 Double Adjustable Shocks in front and rear
Mono Leaf Calver with CalTracs

2956lbs with Driver

I have much trouble to find a good Suspension Setup. Would like to do some cool wheelies with no wheel spin.
Only driving on good prep tracks.

I tried the upper hole at the caltracs, it makes a huge hit on the rear tire at 11 PSi, but still makes tyre spin and the front wheels dont lift up enough.
For me it looks for a bad wight transfer...
I then go to the lower hole.

Front shocks are around 90/10 and the rear is full open at compression and middle hard at rebound..
The idea was to get the rear to squad.
But i have lot seperation and dont know why.


Maybe some of you have some tips for me?

Sorry for my english. I dont use a translator. Its my school englisch ;)
 
Some Pics for you

PXL_20250427_155229267.jpg


PXL_20250427_155308708.jpg


IMG-20250719-WA0051(2).jpg
 
If you want wheelies and no wheelspin, install a clutchtamer. It can give you more HP during launch, also softens the hit which gives the car more time to transfer weight before the clutch hits the sweet spot. For examples of cars using a 'tamer, look up videos of NMRA Coyote Stock races where just about all the cars in the class use the 'tamer to control a diaphragm clutch. You will see lots of 7500rpm dead hook wheels up launches from 3100lb cars powered by naturally aspirated 302ci factory sealed crate engines.

Grant
 
When you get it set right, be careful how you are coming back down! I've seen too many people start to go to the side with wheels up and let off the throttle or hit the brakes. You come down way too hard when you do this! Front end, oil pan, etc damage can be the result. If you are not going straight and need to come down: 1. stay in the throttle and 2. shift to next gear. Car will come down much softer.
 

Next time you are at the track have someone take a good quality slow motion video from the side of the car while launching. That helps a bunch in diagnosing suspension set up.
 
Hey Grant, i will Check if this tamer works at my hydraulic Clutch system. Thanks for the tip
I'm the guy that makes the 'tamer, I also make the Hitmaster. Both are clutch hit control devices. The 'tamer attaches to the clutch pedal, it works on both mechanical and hydraulic release systems. My Hitmaster attaches with hoses, only works on hydraulic release systems.

Grant
 
Beautiful car, Mario.
Squat is very difficult to achieve with Mopar suspension geometry.
You'll need to experiment with shock settings. (The double adjustables are a great idea) I might try just short of full hard on extension.
And there is a thread on how to tune calverts at the top of the race section you are in.
I would give a clutch tamer a try.
If all else fails..... ladder bars.

Oh, and you English is fine. 1000% better than my German, lol.
 
Thank you Guys.

Here is the First Vid:



Caltracs Lower Hole, Shocks Compression Full Open ( 1 Click) 11,5PSI 4000 RPM
 
I have the 3inch weld in leaf Relocation kit. It hast 3 holes. I use the lowest which make the highest Rear end
 
Do you have some space or preload between the pivot bracket roll pin and the mono leaf?
 
Try backing off and leaving about .070 clearance......about the thickness of a US nickel. Works on an automatic trans for me.
Yes i try that. I read the calvert infos at the main page. Maybe my shock setting at the rear was a mistake. Compression 1 Click seams ok but i need high rebound to get the wheight transfer
 
:welcome: Hi Mohni!

we already talked about taming the rear separation with more rebound in the shocks....did you try this? you need to slow down the separation to get some pitch rotation to lift the front. Also, do not run the front shocks completely loose, that´s not the best in my opinion for your car.

You´ll get there, see you!

Michael
 
Hi Michel :)

more rebound in the shocks is my next step. maybe i go to full rebound ( 16-18 clicks) but how much compression? In 3 weeks i went to test & tune Zerbst
 
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