Before I make a mistake please help new mopar fan!!

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70dusterpink

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Hey guys I'm Jim I just purchasedy first classic car at the ago of 20 as a roller. I want to put a big block in it but only found one in my area. A 413? Soy question is a 413 it's a 1970 good for my duster? I am thinking not because I don't want to spend the big bucks on headers was trying to do the 383 b body headers I saw on big block dart. Is the 413 a 440 based engine? I'm not lookin to run 11s just have a fun street car with lots of torque. So should I go with the 413? Or wait and find a 383 that runs that is high compression. Maybe someone on here is nice enough to give me a running 383? Haha lucky wishing. Anyway basically would b body headers work with a 413? I know with a 440 they won't. Also the 413 is only 450 bucks and runs like a top. Or if someone has a 383 high comp good running engine I can buy from them in the nj area. Thanks alot I love this website
 
im all for a big block a body, but you might not want to rule out a small block.
 
I wasn't ruling out a small block 340 but the 340 are alot more money than a 383 or 440... If I could find a newer magnum 360 I would think about that. But cool factor of a big block is cool an you can't beat the torque
 
how is the car setup? what torsion bars, rear, and what kind of front brakes? is it manual steering or power?
 
..that was a hard read...yellow68runner..is that mean green machine yours ?
 
Welcome to the site, You will have the same problems if not more with a 413 vs a 440 as for headers in your car. They are both RB (raised block) engines and the 383 is a B engine. Any big block engine in an a body will cost more for the conversion parts than a small block, how much money, skill, and patience do you have? It's a pretty straight forward conversion these days with the Shumacher kits sold, but it still costs a lot and is a bit of work. Unless of course, you find all of the parts you need for cheap used.
Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide to do.
How about some pics of your car?
 
413 is a good motor IF it is not from an rv. If the donor is a passenger car, you're good to go.
 
only thing with a 413, if you decide to rebuild it, there are no good off the shelf piston choices.
 
Depending on your immediate goals(and I'm not tryin to sway you from goin B/RB) but a guy can get an A body very quick with a 360 magnum motor with a Hughes regrind cam and a RPM intake and 750 Holley and do it for less than a grand.

Plus A motor trans are a lot easier to come up with.

My 2 cents.
 
Hey this site is great with all the responses. I have good skills hah I can weld and rebuilt ford 302 for alot of friends. Went to school for mechanics and have the patience to do a big block. So basically I'm thinking the low deck 383 would be best for me fairly cheap. Cam and intake and a set of headers. Where can I find a magnum 360 what year that's a option to. I really want a big block though haha. The car has a 8 3/4 rear already and also disc brakes. I will be doing sub frame connectors for sure eithe way. Keep you responses coming it's opening my eyes to mopars!!!
 
Forgot to add manual steering but it was a 318 car so I'm guessing small block torsion bars.
 
The only other sticky part to a B motor is the radiator. Your gonna need a good one to cool it off and a clutch fan to boot.

Manual steering is a + for fitment. Schumacher(?) headers are easy to install and not much more.

383 with closed chamber heads and a 484/284 or maybe a comp 268 xtreme energy would be a spicey low cost deal too.400 motors run really good this way too but have less compression.

Magnum motors can be had for 450-650 in boneyards 92-00 would work. You would have to run an electric pump though.
 
I guessing I can get a rad not to hard. I have a aluminum one universal fit 3 row. That might work. Ya the magnum motor I will think about. Just don't like electric pumps that much. Any idea on where to get a low dollar 383 I like that build it is exactly what I was thinking!!
 
THE THING THAT all of you forgot to address is this caution----Chrysler did not MAKE any 413's in 1970 except in trucks and motor homes. Some of these had vastly different cylinder heads and water pump setups. What this means is, that if you buy a late 413 and it IS a heavy truck engine, what you have there is a low compression short block. You'll have to throw away the heads, water pump, and a few other things, and then go out and find the ones that are compatible with 413/426/440 AUTOMOTIVE engines

Here's some pictures of a "heavy" 413. I don't remember if the intake fits, but the heads and water pump hookup are very much different than an auto engine

http://ramchargercentral.com/mopar-...lub-cab-with-industrial-413/?action=printpage

http://images.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/BallstonSpatruckshow_4759_resized.jpg

Now in their defense, these truck engines often have good forged cranks and good rods, it's just that you'll have to toss most of the rest.


So---------be careful what you're getting into.
 
The 1970 413 WILL be an industrial engine and is not well suited for a car for several reasons. Even if it's an earlier passenger car engine that was installed in a 1970 car, it will have its own difficulties that you won't find with a 383, 400, or 440. I'd only consider it if were an earlier engine (1965 was the last year of the pass car 413) and was running good.
 
I'll pass on the 413 then. Still looking for a 383 haha this website is great
 
70dusterpink said:
I'll pass on the 413 then. Still looking for a 383 haha this website is great
Click to expand...

I have a 383 a-body and they are a real pain in the azz!! Headers are Very expensive for one. They are very front-end heavy and will tend to PUSH in the corners. Driveshaft has to be shortened. trans need to be BUILT for the torque. Considering power to weight ratio it may be in your best interests to go smallblock. Lotsa power from a smallblock and weight is not an issue. The 360's are everywhere and cheap. The 383 is going to be a problem with pistons too!! I know, I just scraped a cracked 383 that was my build engine. No off the shelf pistons available except stroker pieces and a minimum of $900.00 for a good set of pistons. I just passed on the idea of the stroker from 440 source. They are on sale for $1887.00 complete with forged crank-rods-pistons-rings and inserts. All you need is a 383-400 block and can achieve 500+cubic inches.

I now am using the 400 block. I will be building my own headers since I am using a S480 76mm Turbo. I will be posting pictures of the build shortly in the Forced Induction forum.

O'yeah, WELCOME to FABO!!
Good luck on you endeavor!!
 
Jim Lusk said:
The 1970 413 WILL be an industrial engine and is not well suited for a car for several reasons. Even if it's an earlier passenger car engine that was installed in a 1970 car, it will have its own difficulties that you won't find with a 383, 400, or 440. I'd only consider it if were an earlier engine (1965 was the last year of the pass car 413) and was running good.
Click to expand...


Didn't the early 413 have a 2x4 crossram?? I remember it ran quite well!!
 
if you think 383 pistons are hard to find, then 413s are impossible.
 
Too bad your over on the east coast. I can get you a running 440/727 for $600 here in B.C..
 
The Max Wedge 413's had the cross rams. I believe there were 413 4 barrels also in those early years.

As some have pointed out, a big block of any kind can get pretty expensive, not handle as well and be more difficult to hook up on the street than a small block. Changing spark plugs will probably be a big pain also. 360's, Magnum or original, can be made to perform very well. They actually have a longer stroke than a 361/383/400 and make good, street friendly torque. 3.58" for the 360 and 3.375" for the low deck big blocks. Lots of build options that can be bought for less money and hassle.
 
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