j par
Well-hung Member
You just got done saying your wife lies to make you look bad on the last thread?!...
You got the big fat disagree for saying you were hip...
When the truth is you are... SQUARE!...
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Best bang for the buck?
- Thread starter CRAMAR
- Start date
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You got the big fat disagree for saying you were hip...
When the truth is you are... SQUARE!...
My old '71 340 Cuda (hot street car) when I bought it back in 1980>
All stock motor, 750DP, .484/284, 727
B&M super Holeshot,
small tube hdrs,
all stock suspension (used to lift drivers front tyre)
3.55's, M&H 8x26's
MSD6A, NGK5's, 36 total on leaded 97ron
ran high 13.2's@101+ = 301 actual fwhp with all ancillaries, I got it down to 13.1's with some tuning if I remember correct?
You could say thats not a lot of hp for a 340 with that spec but the no's are from the 1/4 not a dyno, it was an all steel car@around 3550lbs with me....
So trying to get an actual 266fwhp on track from a teener with 8:1/manifolds, cam+J heads is gonna be hard work with just a tune compare it to a bone stock '72/'73 340@245hp. But its gonna be fun trying, thats what its all about. A 650DP would certainly help a 1/10th, but its got to happen as it is now.
j par
Well-hung Member
I thought it was pretty easy to read between the lines that he doesn't just want to merely barely reach 13.5 and then be completely happy.. if he's looking at $1, 500 with Edelbrock heads then he's looking to make an impression on himself and the dragstrip in my opinion.. and like I've repeatedly said being able to tune optimally is all great but when you really want to start making the car move he's going to do a little more than that...
And please make me understand how this comment is any kind of derailment...
j par
Well-hung Member
I think there's a very fat line between what people calculate the car should do and what an optimal car like a real full-time drag car should and our street cars with relatively Hot Motors..
I'm not getting involved in that stuff
Calcs are not the be all I know, but they worked fine for me for years and are very close to actual time slips until you get into working out stockers and very light cars, then it goes to the wall.
Calcs are not the be all I know, but they worked fine for me for years and are very close to actual time slips until you get into working out stockers and very light cars, then it goes to the wall.
j par
Well-hung Member
That's why I always talk about Time Slips and proof.. I got to give it to 318willrun I'd like to tell him he has over optimized his car.. especially with his gears.. I do forget he has a 360 and not a 318 though and that is quite a difference... Maybe he'll pop in and remind us what is 318 cars doing now...I'm not getting involved in that stuff
Calcs are not the be all I know, but they worked fine for me for years and are very close to actual time slips until you get into working out stockers and very light cars, then it goes to the wall.
318 Duster. high 14's. 2.76 gears (open), stock converter, stock exhaust manifolds, summit cam, home ported 318 heads and a 770 Holley. Thick .050 head gaskets so my compression is less than a factory 318.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
j par
Well-hung Member
Okay then Huey Lewis...
Yes he is much like I was back in the day, don't just throw $$@it, work what you have, thats the fun part, he's done really well....but as you said if you wanna step it up you gotta add parts.
Later on I added an HS Dom intake, .590" purple sft, race hdrs, TA4200 vert, 4.30's/10x28's and went 12.39@108, added 60hp .5 sec and the rest was gear/vert, same rpm. The 11.01 was with a 220 shot.
Later on I added an HS Dom intake, .590" purple sft, race hdrs, TA4200 vert, 4.30's/10x28's and went 12.39@108, added 60hp .5 sec and the rest was gear/vert, same rpm. The 11.01 was with a 220 shot.
j par
Well-hung Member
oh good lord you should have seen the tar and Feathering I got when I added dual quads to my low compression 318..
When I posted my Time Slips and lost a half second in the quarter-mile you could hear a pin drop....
A long time mopar guy/racer and friend over here runs a Valiant, 318 t-ram twin 450's, stick car, 13.2's, absolutely no bottom end whatsoever he said, this is a driver so he don't side step@6000...but it looks cool.
Sounds about right. The OP won't go much faster. and all the speculation is just that, speculation.
The OP needs the previously mentioned parts to reach the 13's.
j par
Well-hung Member
Careful the Forum gets crazy when they hear real world stuff...
j par
Well-hung Member
I've just scratched the surface...I've got a lot to learn
I would think if I had 3.55's in my car, I would be mid 14's at least...
j par
Well-hung Member
But you're saying he could tune his car to do a 13.5?
Never once said that, ever. I said mid to maybe even low 14's. I think there is 1/2 second, maybe a tad more in the tune. It's not only the gears he has on me, I like his cam better...
Read post 30
I don't believe so, need more gear than 3.55 to shave .5
I have good news..... We're going to find out! Because before I pull the 318, we'll give it some gears.... My cam is an ancient Crane grind, slow ramps, I've killed my compression, stock converter = hating 2.76's... LOL
j par
Well-hung Member
When you get back to my supposedly massive derailing Point how are we going to get him too easily index 13-5?.
I'd do 4 things.
- Tune it to at least a 14.4.
- Add converter
- Add headers
- Cut the heads .045
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