vallianted
Well-Known Member
Hey all.looking to buy a power brake booster for my wifes 65 Valliant.would like some advice on which is a good one to use.
Ted
Ted
Best brake booster
- Thread starter vallianted
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Are you looking for a replacement booster for an existing factory power brake system? Or are you adding power to a factory manual brake car? Is it a slant 6 or a V8?
If it's a replacement, there are no new ones. Your best bet would be to send it to Booster Dewy and have it rebuilt.
https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/
Don't forget to include the booster's separate vacuum tank when you send it in, it may also need attention.
If you're looking to add power brakes, a V8 has substantially less room than a slant 6. The 6 allows you to use many later boosters, but with the V8 you're pretty much limited to the '67-'72 7 1/2" and 8" Midland-Ross boosters with their offset bracketry. They're tight, but they fit. The trouble is that they are not available new or rebuilt, either. You'll have to find a suitable core unit and have it rebuilt.
Beware of some aftermarket kits that use generic "offshore" boosters (non-rebuildable and difficult to source replacements if/when one goes bad) that usually use some form of Ford or GM master cylinder, you'll have some issues with linkage and lines- nothing that can't be worked through, but additional work nonetheless.
Doctor Diff offers a booster and linkage that will work in your A body, patterned after the original parts, that accepts Mopar master cylinders. He also can set you up with the conversion lines and distribution block if you should decide to upgrade your single-pot master cylinder to a later dual-reservoir master cylinder (a VERY good idea); as well as being a one-stop shop for any disc brake upgrades you may have in mind (you also didn't say if you have drums or discs, or any intentions to upgrade). Good prices, great parts and stellar customer service.
DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components
Bendix Style Dual Diaphragm Booster for Mopars
And speaking of master cylinders, people will tell you to skip the power and just install a 15/16" bore master in it- which does work very well. But I also understand the wife wanting power brakes... Catch 22.
If it's a replacement, there are no new ones. Your best bet would be to send it to Booster Dewy and have it rebuilt.
https://www.powerbrakebooster.com/
Don't forget to include the booster's separate vacuum tank when you send it in, it may also need attention.
If you're looking to add power brakes, a V8 has substantially less room than a slant 6. The 6 allows you to use many later boosters, but with the V8 you're pretty much limited to the '67-'72 7 1/2" and 8" Midland-Ross boosters with their offset bracketry. They're tight, but they fit. The trouble is that they are not available new or rebuilt, either. You'll have to find a suitable core unit and have it rebuilt.
Beware of some aftermarket kits that use generic "offshore" boosters (non-rebuildable and difficult to source replacements if/when one goes bad) that usually use some form of Ford or GM master cylinder, you'll have some issues with linkage and lines- nothing that can't be worked through, but additional work nonetheless.
Doctor Diff offers a booster and linkage that will work in your A body, patterned after the original parts, that accepts Mopar master cylinders. He also can set you up with the conversion lines and distribution block if you should decide to upgrade your single-pot master cylinder to a later dual-reservoir master cylinder (a VERY good idea); as well as being a one-stop shop for any disc brake upgrades you may have in mind (you also didn't say if you have drums or discs, or any intentions to upgrade). Good prices, great parts and stellar customer service.
DoctorDiff Drivetrain Components
Bendix Style Dual Diaphragm Booster for Mopars
And speaking of master cylinders, people will tell you to skip the power and just install a 15/16" bore master in it- which does work very well. But I also understand the wife wanting power brakes... Catch 22.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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If all else fails, you can modify your pedal ratio
You still running the 9inch drums all round?
BTW, nice car
You still running the 9inch drums all round?
BTW, nice car
Last edited:
vallianted
Well-Known Member
vallianted
Well-Known Member
The car is a slant with drum brakes all around.everything new.9 inch.would like to add a duel master and a booster.what do you think about the stuff Summit sells?
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Some is good and some not so much. They sell a lot of stuff- what in particular are you looking at? Link?
vallianted
Well-Known Member
It's made by Leed.part #lebfc2003hk.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Looks like an early ford Master cylinder and generic booster. Here's a pic of a '68 Mustang master for comparison:
And here's the "Leed" master:
Same basic kit that's sold by many different vendors under many different names. They can be made to work, but when it comes to servicing them, it can be a chore to find out exactly what you have... sometimes the vendors can't even tell you.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
- Messages
- 24,933
- Reaction score
- 12,282
Drums are said to be self-energizing. That is to say, as the car slows down, you gotta relax the pressure on the pedal, else the car will slow down faster than you had anticipated.
Discs are not like that.
It always requires more pedal pressure to slow down faster. Because of this perceived "lack" of self-energization, disc-brake cars almost always come with boosters.
LATE A-bodies with 10" drums stop pretty well on the street, with a good feel, and in my experience, an easy pedal. But, that 65 of yours is pretty lightweight, and it doesn't really need more brakes than 9inchers with decent organic shoes. A booster will however, reduce the pedal effort.
If your pedal takes a lot of travel before braking starts, or,
if the pedal is not hard almost right away;
I would figure out and fix the whys of that first.
For instance,
if the parking brake cable does completely relax and the strut remains partially extended, the rear brakes will become "spongy".This sponginess will telegraph into the brake pedal, and it will require more pedal-travel and more leg-effort to stop the car on what then is, pretty-much, just the front brakes.
With an all-drum system, AND a single-piston M/C, it is essential that
> the brakes are all working properly; both hydraulically and mechanically,
> and that all are properly adjusted; including the parking system, and
> that the pushrod entering the M/C is the correct length, and especially, is not too short.
> and that the pedal is high and hard.
after that,
> if the brake shoes have been cooked, throw them away. Or if their curvature does Not match the the curvature of the drums, make it so. This requires you to take the shoes and drums, all of them, to a brake specialist, who will grind a proper curvature onto the shoes.
>The shoes have to be able to grab the drums in order to slow the car. If the friction material is glazed as in polished smooth and/or cooked, or if the shoe contacts the drum in only a small area, then stopping will be made more difficult, requiring
excessive pedal pressure.
Discs are not like that.
It always requires more pedal pressure to slow down faster. Because of this perceived "lack" of self-energization, disc-brake cars almost always come with boosters.
LATE A-bodies with 10" drums stop pretty well on the street, with a good feel, and in my experience, an easy pedal. But, that 65 of yours is pretty lightweight, and it doesn't really need more brakes than 9inchers with decent organic shoes. A booster will however, reduce the pedal effort.
If your pedal takes a lot of travel before braking starts, or,
if the pedal is not hard almost right away;
I would figure out and fix the whys of that first.
For instance,
if the parking brake cable does completely relax and the strut remains partially extended, the rear brakes will become "spongy".This sponginess will telegraph into the brake pedal, and it will require more pedal-travel and more leg-effort to stop the car on what then is, pretty-much, just the front brakes.
With an all-drum system, AND a single-piston M/C, it is essential that
> the brakes are all working properly; both hydraulically and mechanically,
> and that all are properly adjusted; including the parking system, and
> that the pushrod entering the M/C is the correct length, and especially, is not too short.
> and that the pedal is high and hard.
after that,
> if the brake shoes have been cooked, throw them away. Or if their curvature does Not match the the curvature of the drums, make it so. This requires you to take the shoes and drums, all of them, to a brake specialist, who will grind a proper curvature onto the shoes.
>The shoes have to be able to grab the drums in order to slow the car. If the friction material is glazed as in polished smooth and/or cooked, or if the shoe contacts the drum in only a small area, then stopping will be made more difficult, requiring
excessive pedal pressure.
vallianted
Well-Known Member
So what would your advice be? I won't hold you to it.lol.
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
As I previously stated, Doctor Diff for most of the parts.
Bendix Style Dual Diaphragm Booster for Mopars (listed for '67 and up A bodies, but will fit your earlier one as well) $300.00
Mopar Front Brake Line Selector for A/B/E Body $45.00
Mopar 1 Piece Distribution Block $65.00
Your choice for master cylinder, depending on if you want a bolt-on lid or one with a wire bail (Rock Auto for reference):
1967 Valiant, 4 wheel drum brakes- More Information for CENTRIC 13063009 $45.79
1973 Valiant, 4 wheel drum brakes- More Information for CENTRIC 13063015 $58.79
So, for between $455.79 and $468.79 plus shipping, you'll have everything you need to add power brakes with a dual-reservoir master cylinder; using Mopar-based parts. You may be able to source similar master cylinders cheaper- I just used good quality mid-priced units as an example. The generic unit was at $449.99; so you're right in the same price range, with what I would consider to be better parts.
Contact Dr. Diff (contact info on his website) and tell him EXACTLY what you're planning to do, to make sure you order the correct pieces. He won't steer you wrong.
Just my opinion, for what it's worth. Since you asked.
Hydroboost.
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