Best Oil for: Four Barrel 340 V8, 4BBL

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Vloshko said:
When he had it rebuilt it was done in Georgia, then shipped back to California, I believe from where it was unloaded he drove it back home 18 miles. So yes the car has already been started, however I thought that with so little mileage I could simply change the oil and put something else in to promote longer and/or better life of the vehicle. Am I mistaken?
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So now the motor is basically broke in.
Now you want to use an oil with zinc or zddp.
Some oils, the zinc is already added, some oils there is no zinc, so you add it yourself.
Now it's up to you to do some research on oil brand choices, and make your decision.
Most oils of today are very good.
Also viscosity will be another thing, you will need to make a decision on.
Colder months thinner oil warmer months thicker. Generally 30wt is a good starting point, or
10-30.

Thousand ways to skin this cat.....Do some research, you'll be fine. :)
 
toolmanmike said:
Over the weekend I hope to read all the articles you provided links for. I just read the Engine Labs article and I feel confident that what I simply stated is true according to the article. The original poster of this thread has a stock built 340 in a restored car that will get limited driving and occasional hot rodding. I really wouldn't consider it a "high performance engine" and high performance or racing oil is not necessary. ZDDP additive is probably most important to combat camshaft and valve train wear. As I stated, a street engine built with tighter bearing clearances can use a thinner oil with ZDDP additive. Depending on how many miles he drives, how hard he drives, and how efficient the engine is (or how quickly the oil gets dirty) will tell you how often it gets changed. Not knowing all the OP's details, I would say a 10/30 with ZDDP additive changed every 2-3000 miles would be just fine.
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Thanks to both of you, and I will read those links regardless.
 
hotrod426 said:
Toolmanmike all I'm suggesting to our pal Vloshko is to do a little research so he's comfortable taking someone's advice. Other than that I would agree with what your saying.
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Like I said above I will read those regardless... wish I knew how to do a double quote.
 
QuickDart360 said:
Also I hear Mobil 1 15/50 full synthetic has good zinc content.O:)
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It does, per their data:
[ame]https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf[/ame]

But if the OP is in Carbondale PA or Carbondale IL, then it is cold in winter and 15W50 is likely too heavy a weight for cold use. The Mobil1 5W50 should work better in the cold temps.

But as much as I like and use synthetics, I would not be putting synthetic in an engine with just 18 street miles. The cam is broken in, but I expect the rings to still be seating with just mild street use so far. I personally would stick with a Gibbs or Penn or similar, 10W30, for another 500 miles or so, if just street driving in cooler weather.
 
Johnny Dart said:
So now the motor is basically broke in.
Now you want to use an oil with zinc or zddp.
Some oils, the zinc is already added, some oils there is no zinc, so you add it yourself.
Now it's up to you to do some research on oil brand choices, and make your decision.
Most oils of today are very good.
Also viscosity will be another thing, you will need to make a decision on.
Colder months thinner oil warmer months thicker. Generally 30wt is a good starting point, or
10-30.

Thousand ways to skin this cat.....Do some research, you'll be fine. :)
Click to expand...

Thank you kindly sir.
 
Would it be helpful for me to figure out the oil operating temperature for my specific vehicle in the city to determine which oil is best?

*edit: In addition it seems like most of the people I have asked on this forum and in person seem to recommend 10w-30, is there a reason that seems to be the go to?

*edit #2: I now understand that "10w" basically refers to the cold startup properties, and the "30" refers to the high temperature thickness... So I guess I figured out that I should figure out how to determine what my oil operating temperature is.

toolmanmike said:
Multiquote is the + " button next to the quote button.
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Thank you.
 
Locomotion said:
I've been using Amsoil products in everything I have with great results - street and race.
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Amsoil is the best damn oil money can buy, its been proven by independent tests run in fleet vehicles.

they blend so many different formulations for every application you can dream of, you just have to know what you have specifically. they will make recommendations, call them.

not only do they make break in oil, but muscle car specific oil with zinc.


and here's the embarrassing bomb I'll drop as opinionated proof. I daily drive a Kia Rio 32 miles one way to work, 64 mi round trip at 80mph. tach's up to 3800 rpm at 80mph, 1.6 liter motor. its been 160,000 miles of oil, gas, tires, brake pads and a few front wheel bearings. it does not burn nor leak a drop of oil. I change it every 15,000 miles with an amsoil filter.

damn now I'm really embarrassed, only time I like that car is when I get my gas bill every month. You just don't know how I miss my D150. If you see me shoot me, you will know its me in the Kia cause I'll be crying.
 
Lucas Hot Rod Oil. 10/30. About 27 dollars for a five quart jug from Summit 2400 PPM zinc.
 
I'm using Lucas Oil in my car, as it tends to have a lot higher zinc additive.
 
Vloshko said:
Would it be helpful for me to figure out the oil operating temperature for my specific vehicle in the city to determine which oil is best?
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Yes. But to that will require driving the car with an oil temperature sender and gage. VDO used to offer a sending unit that would replace the drain plug but they stopped making it. I haven't looked for a while to see if any other companies offer the same. However nothing you have written suggests an engine that would operate outside a factory original build.
*edit: In addition it seems like most of the people I have asked on this forum and in person seem to recommend 10w-30, is there a reason that seems to be the go to?
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If you dig out an owners manual for service manual for your car, you'll find that was the oil weight that covered most conditions.
*edit #2: I now understand that "10w" basically refers to the cold startup properties, and the "30" refers to the high temperature thickness... So I guess I figured out that I should figure out how to determine what my oil operating temperature is.
Click to expand...
Close but not quite. The W grades are based on both cold start up properties and cold running properties. One might consider 'pour point' as the ultimate cold startup property and that has to be looked up seperately. OTH you're not anywhere near the temperatures of Michigan in the winter so I wouldn't worry so much about pour point. It's one of those properties which a person might look when deciding between two or more oils of the same SAE weight.

hotrod426 said:
Toolmanmike all I'm suggesting to our pal Vloshko is to do a little research so he's comfortable taking someone's advice.
Click to expand...
This is so true and perhaps neccessary advice in this era of unfiltered plethera of information.

IMO, the following pdf is best explanation of oil properties and for basically stock engines, selection. Motivated by the writer's interest in Corvairs (air cooled engines), 99% of the info is universal. If FABO or your browser is blocking the direct link, go here http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html and click on the pdf download.
[ame="http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf"]Widman Corvair Oil Selection Pdf[/ame]
his business website: http://www.widman.biz/English/
(and he also has a semi-seperate corvair section)

If you take your car out to something like Willow Springs for Speedfest, then you the engine oil temperatures will run higher. That's when a heavier oil can be helpful even with normal bearing clearances.

A little more in my last post on the subject of oil selection
 
Mattax said:
This is so true and perhaps neccessary advice in this era of unfiltered plethera of information.

IMO, the following pdf is best explanation of oil properties and for basically stock engines, selection. Motivated by the writer's interest in Corvairs (air cooled engines), 99% of the info is universal. If FABO or your browser is blocking the direct link, go here http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html and click on the pdf download.
Widman Corvair Oil Selection Pdf
his business website: http://www.widman.biz/English/
(and he also has a semi-seperate corvair section)

If you take your car out to something like Willow Springs for Speedfest, then you the engine oil temperatures will run higher. That's when a heavier oil can be helpful even with normal bearing clearances.

A little more in my last post on the subject of oil selection
Click to expand...

Thank you for your multiple responses. The reason I only chose to quote the above is because that link and PDF is gold. Thank you again.
 
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