Best Subframe Connectors

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racerdude5

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Pros and Cons of Mopar Performance type compared to US Car Tool weld in type

Please mention experiences and noteworthy things that should be taken into account when choosing

What do you recommend?

Note:They will be welded in no matter what kind they are.
 
Pros and Cons of Mopar Performance type compared to US Car Tool weld in type

Please mention experiences and noteworthy things that should be taken into account when choosing

What do you recommend?

Note:They will be welded in no matter what kind they are.

What stage is your car in?

If it's stripped and on a rotisserie the car tool looks the best, IMO. If you are just adding connectors, I agree with the above, just make your own. I made mine for about 30 bucks.
 
Car is a daily driver. Should I go into the floor pan cutting and stuff or just hang below it? What wall thickness and size tubing?
 
I have used MP connectors. I was happy.
 
I made my own out of 1"x3" .120" wall tubing. They sit flush up against the floor in the rear, so no cutting of floor boards. Easier to weld in than the US Cartool ones that weld to the whole length of the floor, although you can see that these could be welded to a pretty decent section of floor as well. I added some plates to overlap a good sized section of the rear frame. I also added torque boxes, which you can see in the last picture.

IMG_4996_zps19e18495.jpg


IMG_1808_zps23307da1.jpg


IMG_5012_zpse0044a73.jpg
 
Nice job on those. ^^^^^^^
 
Check with seymour_scamp , he was making some at one time, and I ended up buying 2 sets from him, 1 set ea for 2 different Darts I was working on. And his prices were excellent !!
 
Nice job on those. ^^^^^^^

Thanks!

I wanted something beefier than the MP connectors, and since I made them myself they were cheaper. But I didn't want to cut the floors, so I couldn't go 2"x3".

I found the 1x3" worked out great, fit over the frame rails in the back and sat flush up against the rear floor pan. In the front I added the gusset plates, although they were fairly small. I did tie them into my torsion bar anchor reinforcing plates though. If I'd done it all at the same time I would have just made gusset plates that included the torsion bar anchor reinforcement, but hey, live and learn.

IMG_5010_zps13f324a0.jpg
 
Thanks!

I wanted something beefier than the MP connectors, and since I made them myself they were cheaper. But I didn't want to cut the floors, so I couldn't go 2"x3".

I found the 1x3" worked out great, fit over the frame rails in the back and sat flush up against the rear floor pan. In the front I added the gusset plates, although they were fairly small. I did tie them into my torsion bar anchor reinforcing plates though. If I'd done it all at the same time I would have just made gusset plates that included the torsion bar anchor reinforcement, but hey, live and learn.

IMG_5010_zps13f324a0.jpg

personally, I think those are a great job. that's what I like to use and I like the connectors on these cars, ( should have been done at the factory IMO)...

look up a previous thread on this topic from few months back, LOTS of opinion as to where to incorporate into the floors pans or not.

for street use, I see no need to go into the floors, but some disagree??

I also like the safety of a collar around the driveshaft.
 
72bluNblu, did you make the torque boxes or did you buy them?

I bought them. They're US Cartool torque boxes. They're heavier/stronger than the stock torque boxes and don't appear 100% stock, but neither does anything else on my car.
 
I bought the mopar weld in version from mancini racing and that style was crappy and i would never use that version again. A blind man with no arms could of designed a better version. The us car tool version is just as much of scrap metal as the mopar version.

If i was to do it again i would make my own very similar to 72bluNblu
IMG_4996_zps19e18495.jpg
 
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