Best way to strap in a LA stroker ????

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swinger340

swinger340

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Im sure regular rubber motor mounts will rip rite out (69 style, not spool). I have solids, but imagine they will vibrate like hell. Thinking a torque strap along with some good mounts (poly lock). Maybe a torque strap is not needed with the poly locks? What is working for everyone already running a stroker motor?
 
No Stroker engine in my Cuda. It's a 11-1 solid cam Edelbrock top end & Hooker super comps @ 1-3/4 w/4.10's and a 4spd. I can burn rubber in 3 gears and leave strips on the road.

I use the Shumacher torque arm bolted in. Works fine.
Stock motor mounts are used.
 
rumblefish360 said:
No Stroker engine in my Cuda. It's a 11-1 solid cam Edelbrock top end & Hooker super comps @ 1-3/4 w/4.10's and a 4spd. I can burn rubber in 3 gears and leave strips on the road.

I use the Shumacher torque arm bolted in. Works fine.
Stock motor mounts are used.
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Very good. I should have put one on the car already. W just the 340 I have already ripped out 2 OEM style mounts. Had a Schumacher strap in my hands in Carlisle and like a dummy I put it back. Thanks
 
Did a homemade version,of the Schumacher strap,works OK. As long as you do one of the two,you're golden 340.
 
swinger340 said:
Was just looking a the torque strap on line. Don't look very hard to make.
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It's not. A piece of 3/8"s .080"wall steel tubing,a hardware store heim joint,some all thread,and a couple of shock bushings....
 
swinger340 said:
Was just looking a the torque strap on line. Don't look very hard to make.
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really isn't. just a heim joint and some thick wall threaded pipe pretty much. probably could make one under $40. The heim being the most expensive. I was actually about to say, I think torque straps are a rarity on here as I hardly see them mentioned
 
A buddy and I are going to split a set of Poly locs. You really only need the driver's side.
 
I run solid mounts on mine. No real issues, but I do check bolts once a year to make sure essential bolts don't wiggle loose...which I would do anyway since I race a lot. I have had a starter bolt wiggle loose before, no biggie, I caught it before it became a problem.

Don't forget sub-frame connectors if you don't already have them.
 
flyfish said:
I run solid mounts on mine. No real issues, but I do check bolts once a year to make sure essential bolts don't wiggle loose...which I would do anyway since I race a lot. I have had a starter bolt wiggle loose before, no biggie, I caught it before it became a problem.

Don't forget sub-frame connectors if you don't already have them.
Click to expand...

Same here. solid mounts. It will rattle you loose as well. Wouldn't have it any other way for me. :D
 
I remember hearing that solid mounts put a bit of stress on the block. It is surprising how thin that water jacket is. Torque strap is better. You usually attach to the driver side head. Longer moment arm and thicker web.
 
I ripped two OE sandwich mounts out before. The first time I thought defect. The second time I got really pissed. Wrecked my newly replaced fan shroud & bent up the new vicious fan I replaced from the first mount letting go.

Solid mount are fine. There a lite rougher than what you would probably want for the street.
 
Had solids in my car with old motor and yes it rattles the hell out of screws and bolts and nuts. With my new stroker I use the Schumacher polylocs.
 
If you run a polylock mount on the left you're fine. If you're cheap like me a turn buckle and some chain at the hardware store is less than a factory mount, fully adjustable, will never break the block ears, and not transmit vibes.
 
All you have to do is drill a hole through the driver's side stock mount and through the frame mount. Run a grade 8 bolt through it with a self locking nut on the other side and gently tighten it. Very cheap and just as effective as any type fancy locking mount.
 
RustyRatRod said:
All you have to do is drill a hole through the driver's side stock mount and through the frame mount. Run a grade 8 bolt through it with a self locking nut on the other side and gently tighten it. Very cheap and just as effective as any type fancy locking mount.
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Also true - I've seen that but never tried it.
 
Another vote for the Shumacher torque arm bolted in. Works fine and simple to install.
 
I have a stroker and a 4-speed and it wasn't so much the stroker's torque that made me go with a torque strap but it was the 4-speed and keeping the motor held tight as you're banging gears. I went with the Shumacher A-Body Torque Strap and mounts (but I'm running a 73 k-frame with the Shumacher '73 & Up Poly Spool 273/318 or 340/360). I do get very slight vibration with the poly engine mounts and poly mount in the torque strap but it's nothing like a solid mount.

I think the Shumacker product line is well worth the money and you would be hard pressed to duplicate the quality of their torque strap for less money. The torque strap is adjustable, comes with all the hardware, ploy mount bushings, and is powdered coated.
 

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RustyRatRod said:
All you have to do is drill a hole through the driver's side stock mount and through the frame mount. Run a grade 8 bolt through it with a self locking nut on the other side and gently tighten it. Very cheap and just as effective as any type fancy locking mount.
Click to expand...

Ive personally done this on a friends car (non mopar) when he ripped the second mount out. Never had a problem after that!
 
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