BIG Turbo build planned - turbo guys!

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Bill Dedman said:
Fitting larger valves to a cylinder head is, if the desired larger valve is the correct-length, with the same stem-diameter, and valve spring installed-height is the same as the originals, a slam-dunk to accomplish. Porting a slant six head is a time-consuming, expensive process, fraught with the possibility of hitting water, something that is not easy to repair.

I have heard prices that range upwards of $1,500.00 for a ported head, complete. Simply putting the oversize valves in, doing some "pocket-porting" in the valve bowl area and letting a couple of more pounds of boost make up for the flow restrictions of the un-ported casting could save upwards of $1,000.00 if porting is not utilized in the "build."

Unless the engine is to be a balls-to-the-wall, all-out, NHRA Competition Eliminator effort where every HP counts, it seems to me that it makes $$$$ sense to allow the turbo to make up the slack by adding some extra boost in lieu of spending another grand on porting.

Just my 2-cents... :happy7:
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I was planning this basically - blending of the bowls and gasket match of the port faces prior to any machine work and that's it.. install the bigger valves/seats and let the turbo do the rest of the work.. basically a mild build (depending on the cam which again mild not rev'ing above 5,500rpm) then add the turbo let it rip..

The FAST EFI comes with a wide band o2 plus I was going to build the engine and then dyno break it in and tune it then just bolt it in..

I have to sell 2 car's to fund this so it's going to be awhile (mid/end of this summer before I start) AS I want to get the chassis done first due to already having 75% of the parts and me not being able to weld (don't have a welder yet) I need to bring the car to SharaDon's in Hugo (4 hours from me)
 
zac_F71 said:
I have to sell 2 car's to fund this so it's going to be awhile (mid/end of this summer before I start) AS I want to get the chassis done first due to already having 75% of the parts and me not being able to weld (don't have a welder yet) I need to bring the car to SharaDon's in Hugo (4 hours from me)
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Zac i was going to advise you to talk to Don out at SharaDon's he has a sweet setup out there and there the one that did all of nitti's work on his gold duster. There big into forced induction I was out there in February and man I didn't want to leave.....
Good luck
Aaron
 
I agree, you can get additional power, by raising the boost pressure, instead of going larger valves, and port/bowl work. However this does create some other issues. Increase boost pressure and the charge temp increases, and density ratio, decreases. Depending on the turbo, you can wind up outside of the best efficency island of the map. Look at it this way. If you have a 1/2 inch hose, and 30 lbs water pressure, and compare that to a 3/4 inch hose, and 30 psi water pressure, the 3/4 hose will flow more volume of water. The same holds true for an engine, whether boosted or not, reduce inlet restriction, power goes up. Reduce exhaust restriction, power goes up. And with a turbo, as you increase boost pressure (with the same turbo) exhaust back pressure also goes up. Of course there is a point of deminishing returns, but adding larger valves, and pocket porting, I would say is worth the money.
 
srixon4406 said:
Zac i was going to advise you to talk to Don out at SharaDon's he has a sweet setup out there and there the one that did all of nitti's work on his gold duster. There big into forced induction I was out there in February and man I didn't want to leave.....
Good luck
Aaron
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Their shop is amazing I agree! Probably have them make up the turbo mani as well..
 
Will you provide struts for the turbo off the block, and not just hang it off the exhaust manifold bolts? If so, the power steering pump holes and engine mount are good locations. I expect you won't mind hacking the front-end sheet-metal to fit the inter-cooler and plumbing. Bill Dedman's turbo slant is very obvious coming at you.
 
BillGrissom said:
Will you provide struts for the turbo off the block, and not just hang it off the exhaust manifold bolts? If so, the power steering pump holes and engine mount are good locations. I expect you won't mind hacking the front-end sheet-metal to fit the inter-cooler and plumbing. Bill Dedman's turbo slant is very obvious coming at you.
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I hope to not cut up much of the car to get the stuff to fit BUT If it needs to be it will likely get done as clean as possible -

I will probably work with SharaDon's on making the manifold as I want to the turbo to sit just rear of the factory battery location (with moving the battery to the trunk) just above the manual steering box
 
BillGrissom said:
Will you provide struts for the turbo off the block, and not just hang it off the exhaust manifold bolts? If so, the power steering pump holes and engine mount are good locations. I expect you won't mind hacking the front-end sheet-metal to fit the inter-cooler and plumbing. Bill Dedman's turbo slant is very obvious coming at you.
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Bill,

We built this thing originally to be just a street car, but my aggressive urges (still there, after 75 years LOL!,) mandated that it be JUST a race car, so we left the front bumper off...

But, I think I like it better with the bumper ON, and those two hacked-up pieces only weigh a couple of pounds, so since Freddie has graciously bowed out of the picture, and the decision is just mine to make, I think it will be, for sure, JUST a race car, but the bumper (or, what's left of it,) will stay on. Here are some pictures of each; what do you guys think?
 

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Looks better with the bumper(s) off IMO

I don't think I will have that fitment issue as the Dart/Demon grille to core support is much deeper than that of the Valiants and I will be mounting my intercooler on the upper area just in front of the rad (if you can imagine it)
 
zac_F71 said:
Looks better with the bumper(s) off IMO

I don't think I will have that fitment issue as the Dart/Demon grille to core support is much deeper than that of the Valiants and I will be mounting my intercooler on the upper area just in front of the rad (if you can imagine it)
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Thanks for your input!:cheers:
 
Bill D.,
I think it looks better with the bumper on. Either way, it has a mean grin with that inter-cooler. The (modern) Mopar symbol looks cool and is recognizable to most people today. I just hope you don't get a letter from their corporate lawyers for using it.
 
i like it with the bumpers bill.
fwiw i managed to fit an intercooler behind the grille of my 66 so a later a should be no problem at all.
 
BillGrissom said:
Bill D.,
I think it looks better with the bumper on. Either way, it has a mean grin with that inter-cooler. The (modern) Mopar symbol looks cool and is recognizable to most people today. I just hope you don't get a letter from their corporate lawyers for using it.
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They should be happy for the free advertising!:violent1:
 
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