block work prices

[Louie70Dart]

I have a 340 I'm thinking about putting in my Dart. There is a shop close to me that does this, engine work. I went in today looking at prices. While in there, there was this guy looking for parts for his boat engine. Chrysler marine 318, that this place rebuilt for him. He was NOT complaining, but was happy with their work. So at least they have experience with mopar. I got a list of what I would need, with the exception of rod recondition, which I forgot to add. This is not going to be some MONSTER to drive, something that will go, and not break the bank doing it. I think a 340 with some moderate bolt-on mods will be good enough. I'm talking about just block work here. Prices below. Oh, and since no 500hp monster, I won't get the line hone or deck blocked, engine turns over by hand right now. No extra leverage, just hands on the balancer, heads are loose and no plugs in it.
hot tank-------$69.00
bore-hone------$195.00
hone only------$82.00
cam bearings---$49.00
freeze plugs----$44.50
final wash------$59.00
crank cleaned, polished, mic'd--$89.00
ground, if needed--$189.00
If lucky and no boring and no crank grind needed I can get away with under #395. Most likely will need boring, price is up to $505.50. More realistic cause bored out is probably needed. I don't have a price for rod reconditioning, maybe cheaper to get new ones. What is the cost for you? Thanks.

 

[airwoofer]

Can they straighten out the cam tunnel too? Make sure that they have a torque plate if you bore it. You may also consider decking.

 

[Louie70Dart]

For those who build their own, how do these numbers compare where you are?

 

[Louie70Dart]

Cc

 

[Abodybomber]

Prices are reasonable.I would ask around,about shop quality, from known customers if possible. Block work is the whole foundation of the build.

 

[tubtar]

Other than freeze plugs......unless they do all plugs in the block , it sounds on the high side.
But the prices are in line with what I'd pay here in the Minneapolis area.

 

[RAMM]

Those prices are reasonable as far as what I'd charge. Except the three different cleaning charges. I have a torque plate for SBM and I charge $35.00 per hole when asked to use it otherwise it is $25.00 per hole. I usually tell just about anyone that for all the block work including decking you usually wind up around $800.00 if its straightforward. Most shops charge to little and it has depressed this whole market--Most people don't understand how many blocks you have to hone to pay for a $15G CK-10. I have approx $140G in equipment in my shop all purchased used except for the SF-902. J.Rob

 

[72ScampTramp]

I had mine done not to long go. I agree with the ^ post about the 3 different cleaning charges. As far as torque plate goes it was $40 flat fee. The cam bearings and freeze plugs is that including the parts?

 

[Louie70Dart]

not sure about parts so probably not. But I'm assuming and you you know whats said about that. LOL

 

[moper]

It's cheap IMO - but I live in the most expensive state in the Union.
In terms of what you're having done - the normal approach is to let the engine tell you what it needs. not you tell it...lol. As for my own builds - I always align hone the mains, I always square deck (not the same as decking and more $$), and I always internally balance which is not on your list, but if you need to bore it, it should be. Like RAMM I own my own torque plates but you have to pay them to install and buy gaskets. Typically my short block machining will run in the $1800 range.

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Make sure everything is done in house. No farming work out including balancing. Look at their out going work on the shelf. If its not bagged go else ware.

New machines and bad machinists are no better then worn machines and good machinists.

New rods need to get checked also.

Don't go cheap on bearings and rings. Parts plus machine work determine the longevity of the motors life. Dirt on assembly is your worse enemy .

Always fire the motor on a run stand. Check for leaks and compression.

A good question to ask a shop is if they do sleeves on motorcycles. Then ask if they need the bottom end to do this. if they say no go else ware. A good shop would want to make sure the bore is centered and square on the crank journal. Many are not. Rods and cranks need to float in the center on oil while loaded. Off to one side causes friction. Sleeves need to be installed centered and bored centered to keep them concentric so they don't egg with heat.

The the less friction the more power and they sing effortlessly. One thing wrong they go to pieces real quick.

Cheap is not always the best way to go. Quality once is better then cheap twice.