body work tools question

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Darren

Darren

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Hey guys I was wondering if anyone can give me some advice on these body blocks I am thinking of purchasing. I want to paint my 68 Cuda fastback john deere blitz black (untill I have the time and funds to do it right) but for now the body needs a bit of tlc, couple dents and dings that need to get massaged. Would this be a good purchase for the work I will be doing? Thanks for any info
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Darren said:
Hey guys I was wondering if anyone can give me some advice on these body blocks I am thinking of purchasing. I want to paint my 68 Cuda fastback john deere blitz black (untill I have the time and funds to do it right) but for now the body needs a bit of tlc, couple dents and dings that need to get massaged. Would this be a good purchase for the work I will be doing? Thanks for any infoView attachment 1715027814
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What all the pros use. That's what I sell.
 
They are great! But only as good as the operator. Now my next question is what kind of paint it the John Deere paint?
 
Blitz is a satin black correct? Deere paints are still made by Martin Senour I believe. They have some of the best aerosol can blacks you can get anywhere.
 
I would be shooting the door jams with John deere blitz black rattle can and the exterior of the car with the john deere blitz black with paint gun. Like I said just untill I can spend the proper time and money to get it back in its original color.
 
Those DuraBlocks are my go-to sanding blocks and would be a good set to start with. Should cover almost all of your needs. Over the years I have accumulated quite a selection of blocks. The only block I use more than the Dura-Blocks are ones I made with a strip of plexiglass and a long hunk of closed cell foam. ( I actually made several, up to 30 inches long)
 
Yes the paint is a satin black finish. And it just happens that I have a john deere dealer 5 mins from my house...
toolmanmike said:
Blitz is a satin black correct? Deere paints are still made by Martin Senour I believe. They have some of the best aerosol can blacks you can get anywhere.
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This is what the car looks like now. I have drove it like this for 2 years now. I know it has character, it's actually 85% original paint, but there are lots of bare metal spots that I am tired of waxing and spot priming and so on.

Screenshot_2017-03-13-22-21-02.png
 
You are like lots of my buddies, they say leave it as is.. but after driving for few years like this
1968FormulaS340 said:
Most will probably disagree with me, but I wouldn't paint it.
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I think it's time for a change.
 
Sometimes a temporary change can cause more and $ work later on!
 
Personally I would strongly advise against doing this. You mentioned that you are looking to fix some dents now and eventually repaint the original color. Why not just paint it the original color now? You have a nice solid base to work over, why muck it up?
 
With 2 Young kids (3.5 and 5 year old ) the time and funds are not available at the moment, when I did the body and paint on my last car (68 dart) it was down for 4 years. And that was when it was just the wife and me lol. I had another thought of shooting the car with a matte clear just to protect it until I can do it right.like I said there are lots of bare metal spots on the car now that I have been treating after almost every ride. But it is a very solid California car.
Pascamp said:
Personally I would strongly advise against doing this. You mentioned that you are looking to fix some dents now and eventually repaint the original color. Why not just paint it the original color now? You have a nice solid base to work over, why muck it up?
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But, your right maybe once a get into doing the body I will relize if I spend a little more time and money I can paint it the original color, but it will have to be done in my garage. And I am not looking for a trailer queen just a driver. Damit now you guys got me thinking . lol
Pascamp said:
Personally I would strongly advise against doing this. You mentioned that you are looking to fix some dents now and eventually repaint the original color. Why not just paint it the original color now? You have a nice solid base to work over, why muck it up?
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Darren said:
But, your right maybe once a get into doing the body I will relize if I spend a little more time and money I can paint it the original color, but it will have to be done in my garage. And I am not looking for a trailer queen just a driver. Damit now you guys got me thinking . lol
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Nothing wrong with getting things good enough and spraying it in the driveway. It'll look like a new car. There's plenty of paints out there that are budget friendly. You won't be making your life harder down the road too. Heck with kids and life in general you're doing good that you've got a nice driver. You may never get to "do it right". Paint it and enjoy it.

While those flat/satin colors look cool in magazines, they are a nightmare in real life. Anything that gets stuck to the paint (tar, bird ****, sap, dirt) is gonna be a problem. When you rub it off it creates a glossy spot that just gets worse the more you screw with it.
 
I get compliments all the time on how good my work trucks look. Everyone was painted with cheap Napa paint in the parking lot... during pollen season with bugs flying around and cars zipping by the hiway less than a hundred feet away kicking up dust.
 
If you are set on doing some body work get that Dura block set and a longer block(30/36").
Something like this works good.
Now the disclaimer, I'm no body guy but I play one at night.

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Thanks guys for encouragement and info.. I think I will finish stripping the trim, bumpers etc and start working on doing one panel at a time.. the original color is GG1, I know it is a metallic color, is there a way I can have a "BC CC" GG1 paint mixed with NO metallic so if I end painting the car GG1 I can do 1 panel at a time and not worry about each panel matching? Thanks
 
Darren said:
Thanks guys for encouragement and info.. I think I will finish stripping the trim, bumpers etc and start working on doing one panel at a time.. the original color is GG1, I know it is a metallic color, is there a way I can have a "BC CC" GG1 paint mixed with NO metallic so if I end painting the car GG1 I can do 1 panel at a time and not worry about each panel matching? Thanks
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I wouldn't recommend it.
 
Darren said:
Thanks guys for encouragement and info.. I think I will finish stripping the trim, bumpers etc and start working on doing one panel at a time.. the original color is GG1, I know it is a metallic color, is there a way I can have a "BC CC" GG1 paint mixed with NO metallic so if I end painting the car GG1 I can do 1 panel at a time and not worry about each panel matching? Thanks
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I suppose they could mix it without flake, but it would definitely change the color. There are actually different size and color flakes that have a pretty big impact on the final color.

Here's another suggestion for an attack plan. Just fix each rust/dent area one at a time. Then spray epoxy primer over the repair. They have it in aerosol cans now. After you fix all the areas scuff and shoot the whole car in high build primer and do a quick block to blend everything. Then spray the car in one shot. The epoxy primer will let you take your time doing the repairs, and the final prime, block, and paint can be done on a weekend.
 
I would LEAVE IT ALONE FOR NOW. Drive it as is until you can afford to paint it. If you do go through the time and trouble to paint it with the JD stuff now, you will only have to undo all that work later, because you won't want to put a shiny new paint job on top of a temporary one. I have been painting cars for almost 40 years. I believe (and I think most would agree), that there is only one way to do a paint job; the right way. A GOOD paint job, in my opinion, requires going down to bare metal. How else can you possibly know what lurks under the current paint. Once down to bare metal, get some epoxy primer on it before the surface rust starts up. Then do all of your body work. Don't scrimp on filler. I like Evercoat Rage Gold. It sands way easier than the cheap stuff, and it will save time. Then several coats of polyester primer; block sand; fix places; more primer; block sand, seal and paint. That is a lot of work to do for a temporary paint job. Also, I really like the Restoration Shop paint from TCP Global. It costs less than half of what PPG or Dupont cost, and it works great. Here are a few pics of my car with the TCP Global paint. ALSO, until just recently, I have always painted cars in my garage, and the results have always fine. Just don't do it on a humid or windy day.

Cuda 1.JPG


Cuda2.JPG
 
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