Bostonian 71 demon
- Thread starter B.R.E.Demon
- Start date
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Should work. I was looking at adding a strut that wouldn't allow the lock mechanism to move. Seemed like the easiest solution for me.
But then we also can't have reverse - either remove the gear or disable it so it can't be selected. Another strut to hold the reverse arm on the 4spd in locked out position.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
For a 4 speed I would do a 3 speed shifter to run the 4 speed with a second rod to do reverse that has a twist lock like an brake handle on theses cars
I'd be very curious to see that set up!
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Crazy morning—took the day off to get the roll cage welded out so I could start on the underside, but of course, the welder was a no-call no-show. Thankfully, my buddy's coming in clutch to help out
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
My buddy from Colorado Hot Rod Haven (AMBR and Riddler builders) came out to check over the cage and the parts they’ll be working on. He should be back within the next week or so to knock out the cage work, which means I can finally lead the seams and roll the car over to start on the underside.
Another buddy came through big time with a passenger side drip rail—sending one down from their private yard. I also wrapped up the bottom edges on the doors, so those and the drip rail are heading to the blaster, hopefully later this week.
Another buddy came through big time with a passenger side drip rail—sending one down from their private yard. I also wrapped up the bottom edges on the doors, so those and the drip rail are heading to the blaster, hopefully later this week.
Very nice! I love the look of the artillery wheels and the paint on the 32 RPU.
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
How are you gonna deal with the aesthetics of a 25.5 cage in this thing?
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
I'm staying with a 8.50 cert cage but incorporating some parts of the 25.5 spec. That way if I must update in the future the foundation is there but I don't plan to push it past deep eights (that would be outlaw events anyway) otherwise I still have my FED chassis for when I want to go faster.
That's bullshit.
Glad you have a friend to come save the day!
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Last night started with a bunch of different things one was painting the clutch fork the other was stripping rust off the door mounting plates and prepping for weight reduction.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Jewelry for the Pro Stocks just landed—BLP (Bo Laws) metering blocks and the craftsmanship is absolutely top-tier. Huge thanks to Mark for making it happen. One step closer to the finish line and the Cam Motion booth at PRI!
Cam Motion your employer? Do they just make late model cam set ups?
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Yes I'm their head of marketing plus technical service. We offer traditional motors too LA,B,and gen 2 Hemi our cores are limited for now but I'm trying to bring in stuff strategically to cover the most variations. We also do all the Chevy and Ford traditional lines too
One reason you don't see them on the website is our belief is for traditional motors build a cam to the engine not just an off the shelf spec.
Depending on how long you’ve been there I may have talked to you in the phone.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
I've been here little over a year now prior to that was 4 years with Procharger
Thanks. I didn't see the older engine stuff on the website.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Yes we only do rollers. But anything older we always want to do a custom for.
I couldn't be happier with my blp carbs.
Nice.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Huge thanks to the crew at Colorado Hot Rod Haven for coming out Friday and knocking out the top side of the chassis—flawless work as always.
The C10 had to get shuffled out into the snow (which killed the battery—go figure), but hey, looks like we’re getting a white Easter for once.
In the “every ounce counts” mindset, I dug into the door latches. After weighing a few ideas—replacing them, recreating them in titanium—I decided to stick with modifying the originals. Ended up going the classic route: carefully drilling them out for weight savings while keeping safety intact.
Next up this week: with the drip rail spot welds are drilled, both doors, skin and the rail are heading to the blaster. Making progress!
The C10 had to get shuffled out into the snow (which killed the battery—go figure), but hey, looks like we’re getting a white Easter for once.
In the “every ounce counts” mindset, I dug into the door latches. After weighing a few ideas—replacing them, recreating them in titanium—I decided to stick with modifying the originals. Ended up going the classic route: carefully drilling them out for weight savings while keeping safety intact.
Next up this week: with the drip rail spot welds are drilled, both doors, skin and the rail are heading to the blaster. Making progress!
rmchrgr
Skate And Destroy
Lot of effort for 6 oz.! Better than nothing but has to be a bit frustrating to only net a few oz. Kinda like when I spent two days stripping grimy-*** undercoating off my Duster thinking it would be 20 + lbs. and it only ended up being about half...
FMJ on B bodies Only just went through a mini ordeal replacing a steel oil pan with an aluminum one that only ended up saving a couple ounces.
FMJ on B bodies Only just went through a mini ordeal replacing a steel oil pan with an aluminum one that only ended up saving a couple ounces.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
its not super frustrating as every bit adds up and like with the body @209.6 lbs it added up its just patience and dedication to a goal at this point
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Spent the afternoon buttoning up final prep to roll the car over onto its lid. In the process, I ran into a new decision point on the rear frame layout. My original plan was to flip the inner edge of the stock rail to become the new outer edge, then follow the factory contour with a new tube. But after looking it over, the cleanest and most structurally sound solution might be to remove each rear frame rail entirely and shift them inward in line with the front rails. That way, the chromoly subframe connectors will run straight into the strongest parts of the chassis.
Also knocked out a few lingering details from the last few days—lightened the door latch mechanisms and trimmed down the inner door bolt mounts, cutting about half the weight from each. Drilled out the drip rail too, so now the doors, rail, and sectioning pieces are ready to head to the blaster.
Also knocked out a few lingering details from the last few days—lightened the door latch mechanisms and trimmed down the inner door bolt mounts, cutting about half the weight from each. Drilled out the drip rail too, so now the doors, rail, and sectioning pieces are ready to head to the blaster.
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