Brake bleeding issue

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haybag

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I just completed brake job on my 69 Dart. Upgraded front to disc using a Scarebird setup and kept the rear 10 " drums. Bought a new mc an prop valve for 73 up , and all other parts are new. Went to bleed and fronts are fine,but getting nothing to the rear. I don ' have any wiring hooked up on the car,does the brake switch on the prop valve need power to work?
 
No sir. The brake warning switch itself doesn't effect brake operation.
 
I am not even getting fluid out of the port on the proportion valve that goes to the rear.
 
Just to clarify , it is not a proportion valve . It is a distribution valve . I believe you have a valve for a drum/drum brake car . What is needed is a valve for a disc/drum car . These are not hard to find nor are they expensive . Always bleed brakes starting from the wheel farthest from the m.c. . Mighty-vac 's work great if you are alone . Gravity bleed works , also
 
I think you can find how to re center a proportion valve in factory service manuals.
 
i had the same issue when i did the disc brake swap, no fluid to the rear. since the front were good i just cracked open the bleeder on the right front and had someone depress the pedal slowly. closed the bleeder after pedal was fully depressed. that was enough to recenter the prop valve. if you are using the pump the pedal method to bleed dont bottom out the pedal while pumping other wise you will have to recenter the prop valve again.
 
Mopar center automatically, otherwise you'd be bleeding it everytime you used linelock.

Recentering is for the other guys.. lol cheers
 
383Scampman said:
Just to clarify , it is not a proportion valve .
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This should be a question. The OP could have bought a drum-drum distribution block, but since he wrote 'prop' it is more likely to be a combo valve or a stand-alone.
inertia said:
1970 - 1976 Mopar Combination Valve Autopsy | Muscle Car Research LLC
Click to expand...
More tech info here if there are any doubts about the type of safety switch/distribution block. There could be a problem if the switch is not installed. I never tried it so.
shruggy.gif

1970 Chrysler Imperial Hydraulic Brake Service Guide from the Master Technicians Service Conference Session 274
&
1972 Imperial & Chrysler Disc Brake Service Repair Book from the Master Technician's Service Conference (Session 293)

haybag said:
I am not even getting fluid out of the port on the proportion valve that goes to the rear.
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Something is wrong, either in the hook ups or internally. Start at the top and work your way down. Did you 'bench bleed' the MC?
 
UPDATE: I do have some fluid at both rear wheels. I think I will have to have a second person pump the pedal while i crack the bleeders. I had been doing it myself using a rod to keep the pedal depressed which I have done countless times bleeding brakes on other vehicles, but is not getting it done on this car.
 
I did it by myself. Get a "One man bleeder". Don't waste money on speed bleeders.
I didn't get any flow to the back until I "bench bled " the master cylinder.
 
I had bled the master before I put it on,but if I don't get good pressure tot he rear I'll pull it off and do it again.
 
Ok, this thing is kicking my ***. so, I bench bled the mc again just to make sure and it was fine. I took the distribution valve apart, blew it out and reassembled,did not find anything that looked wrong. Also blew the line from the distribution valve thru the wheel cylinders just to be sure there is no blockage. I then gravity bled starting with right rear and had steady drips out of all bleeders. thinking I was home free I had a friend pump up and hold the pedal,cracked the right rear and had pressurized fluid and air. Closed it up and pumped up again and cracked the same one and nothing came out and the pedal stayed hard. Never touched the other rear or the front bleeders, but when the pedal is pressed the front brakes are on. Don't know what else to try.
 
haybag said:
Ok, this thing is kicking my ***. so, I bench bled the mc again just to make sure and it was fine. I took the distribution valve apart, blew it out and reassembled,did not find anything that looked wrong. Also blew the line from the distribution valve thru the wheel cylinders just to be sure there is no blockage. I then gravity bled starting with right rear and had steady drips out of all bleeders. thinking I was home free I had a friend pump up and hold the pedal,cracked the right rear and had pressurized fluid and air. Closed it up and pumped up again and cracked the same one and nothing came out and the pedal stayed hard. Never touched the other rear or the front bleeders, but when the pedal is pressed the front brakes are on. Don't know what else to try.
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sounds like somethings wrong w/ the proportioning valve for sure .
 
famous bob said:
sounds like somethings wrong w/ the proportioning valve for sure .
Click to expand...
That's what I am thinking too, just don't want to buy another new one if that isn't the problem.Anyone else every get a new one and have it be defective ?
 
Well the distribution valve was definitely the problem,got another new one and within 10 minutes had all 4 wheels bled.thanks for all the help
 
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