??? brake converstion

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w2dodge

w2dodge

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anyone out there ever use right stuff..mp..wilwood etc...disc brake conv.?..need some input before making a purchase..thanks guys
 
I used scarebird clasic brakes adapters to put cheap chevy disk parts on. total cost with all new parts < 300$. Only problem stayed with small bolt patern. They work grate.
 
cudaman51 said:
I used scarebird clasic brakes adapters to put cheap chevy disk parts on. total cost with all new parts < 300$. Only problem stayed with small bolt patern. They work grate.
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I've never heard of this. Just looked them up online and it looks great. Can you give any insite of what comes with there kit? Do you have to buy the calipers seperate? They also show two differant kits for the A bodies. One sells for $495 the other for $105. Which did you use?
 
with the scarbird route i just bought the adaptor brackets from them. then they give you a list of what parts to buy from anywhere you want.(rock auto is my currant favorite(i did not put on a regulator or change the distribution block)You can spike the brakes as hard as you want and it brakes evenly and very well. I did change the master cylinder.
 
Everything I've read about the scarebird products...

People who have it, love it

People who don't have it, say its cheap and wouldn't have it

So far the only thing I've read I don't like is I can't run Cragars. I'm probably going to try this.
 
The first choice is do you want to go big bolt pattern.Some people are prejudiced against chevy parts on a mopar.I go with if they dont ask i dont tell.With the scarbird you dont have to mess with the spindels and ball joints but you keep the small bolt paterm.I you want the big bolt patern the b body spindel convershion will do the job with a little more money and work. Either one will do the job just fine.Good luck with your project and happy brake changing.
 
Thanks for all of the info. I have no problem with a "hybird" break system. I also have no problem with the small bolt pattern. I'll probably give them a call tomarrow. I have the 9 inch front drums and they have a differant bracket not shown on there web site.
 
I have Willwood in the front and they work great. Also used th eRight Stuff before and the brake lines were nice and fit well.
 
You gain little if anything by going with an after-market kit vs. the standard BBP swap from a later a-body.

The standard swap with the addition of a "Real" performance street pad is simply the most effective way to go for a street car, it allows easy part availability and more than adequate braking performance even for the enthusiastic driver.

No reason to pay extra for "Fluff" that sits behind a wheel. Anything cross drilled or slotted is also a total waste of money.... Don't let the after-market suck cash out of your pocked.

Here is one pad web page....

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/
 
i have to disagree with you on this one formula. i jumped from stock '75 bbp discs to the viper conversion from AR and even with the small 11.75" rotors the difference is dramatic.
 
pauly v.100 said:
i have to disagree with you on this one formula. i jumped from stock '75 bbp discs to the viper conversion from AR and even with the small 11.75" rotors the difference is dramatic.
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Gains are to be had.... But....

The factory a-body set up allows "Part is in stock" (calipers, hoses, standard pads, rotors) maintenance at any parts store. The after-market kits normally come with good "street performance pads", something that is often overlooked when doing a factory swap.

Can I get a show of hands from people that did the factory swap and went with standard consumer quality pads...

The thing many are feeling with an after-market kits is the pad quality.

(Until you start getting into the big kits that require larger wheels and so on... but thats another story)
 
thanks guys ...i got 73 spindles...going with the ar eng wilwood set up..
 
using the wilwood kit up front in my 67 notch cuda and stock drums in the rear. stops like a dream but i do plan on convrting the rear to disc when i get some more power
 
Hmmm. Hard to believe there is a recession going on. Guess some like to do thier part to stimulate the economy. I agree with Formula on this one. My swap was easy, very inexpensive, parts will be a breeze to find and easy on the wallet.
 
3yearcuda said:
Hmmm. Hard to believe there is a recession going on. Guess some like to do thier part to stimulate the economy. I agree with Formula on this one. My swap was easy, very inexpensive, parts will be a breeze to find and easy on the wallet.
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It's very hard for people to grasp the idea that the biggest part of the gain from an after-market swap is simply the performance pads...

They are bombarded with images and ads in magazines.... Just like women with make-up and hair care products.
 
most of the stuff i used in my swap was bought over time and almost all was in hand before our economy tanked. my only concession was to go with the smaller rotors bec i thought that the extra 9 bills to go with 13" rotors and corresponding hardware was more brake than i needed and could justify paying for. (of course now i want them)
the calipers were the most exspensive part but i believe are well worth it. all of the parts i used are available over the counter with the exception of the conversion kit itself which i consider to be reasonably priced from AR engineering.
i'm using EBC redstuff pads which are more than up to the task. the yellows are better for racing but they throw alot more dust out.
i put alot of thought and research into my setup and i am not easily swayed by glitzy adds or "buy 'em cause thats what everyone else has" opinions.
i want my car to turn, stop, and handle like a road race car and this was, in my opinion, the most reasonable way to achieve my goals. so far, i'm VERY happy with the changes.

AR engineering viper brake conversion using late drum brake spindles
first gen viper/brembo calipers
ebc redstuff pads
aluminum master cyl.
'78 cordoba rotors
welded k-frame seams, gusseted steering box mount
non-adjustable tubular uca's
reinforced lca's
poly everything including greasable lca bushings
adjustable strut rods from firm feel
big tie rods from firm feel
1.06" torsion bars
kyb shocks all around
stock rear brakes soon to be converted to 11x2"s on a b-body rear end

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IMG_1207_1.jpg
 
I have all the parts to convert to the BBP discs in front.... Maybe I'll paint VIPER on there :D It'd look cool, anyway....

Naw, if I had the money for brakes, I would go that route, or wilwood, or something... But since I have I have the parts here, I might as well use them!
 
nice ride....i want my car to stop when m family is in it..lol...
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
Gains are to be had.... But....

The factory a-body set up allows "Part is in stock" (calipers, hoses, standard pads, rotors) maintenance at any parts store. The after-market kits normally come with good "street performance pads", something that is often overlooked when doing a factory swap.

Can I get a show of hands from people that did the factory swap and went with standard consumer quality pads...

The thing many are feeling with an after-market kits is the pad quality.

(Until you start getting into the big kits that require larger wheels and so on... but thats another story)
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I agree that the kits that are just stock GM single pistons are no gain over a stock Mopar single piston setup. Those Kit companies use GM or Ford mustang calipers because they can get them cheaper because the parts have more volume. AND they use GM/Ford stuff because those companies started off making GM and Ford conversions and they can have economies of scale by sharing parts over various kits for different brands.

People feel gains from them because they are coming from a drum brake setup.

Even the Willwood 4 piston conversion kit or the Willwood 4 piston caliper on a Mopar rotor is not a big gainer. The big deal with the wilwood kit is that it's lighter than stock. It was devoloped for drag racers.

You go to a AR Engineering Viper caliper conversion you've got a pad with a more surface area and you have a caliper that will not flex and keep the pad flat on the rotor. Same for the Willwood big caliper 6 piston 13" rotor kit.

Mine stops good on the street: junkyard 11.75 Mopar conversion, Mopar police semi metalic pads, MP aluminum master, steel braided flex lines, DOT4 high boiling point fluid.

At the track you can reach the limits with 11.75 on a 3350 lbs car. But you can cook any brakes if you just abuse them incorrectly and don't try to be smooth. I just drive conservative with the brakes. I was especially carefull at Buttonwillow which is a track they all said was tougher on brakes. They got sort of spongy. I still went out and ran more, but it was enough to notice for sure.

I know brake ducts would make a huge difference. Need to make some. I got a good deal on some hose. And I've got some used diffusers. Too bad one is 2" and the other is 3" #-o

VP2_1495.jpg


VP2_2001.jpg
 
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