Brake emergency

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Well father-in-law wants another crack at it bless his heart.
Front wheels seem to act appropriate. Meaning they stop when I hit the brakes. Or at least I cant physically turn the tire if the brake pedal is pushed.
The rear however are too loose. We did the grease at the spaces on the backing place that contact the shoe.
This car isn't coming back from the dead, as I bought it and it had been driven. Just not taken care of properly.
I have ordered all new hoses, and also all new parking brake cables.

It is difficult for me to know what to expect with a single chamber system. Seeing as all the cars I have ever driven have been newer.
But I do expect that if I am driving 30 mpg and slam the brake all the way down, that I should either skid or stop and/or the wheels should stop spinning. Is that correct?
Will keep you guys posted.
 
gdizzle said:
But I do expect that if I am driving 30 mpg and slam the brake all the way down, that I should either skid or stop and/or the wheels should stop spinning. Is that correct?
.
Click to expand...

THIS "Single system" has nothing to do with how good the brakes work when they have a good hard pedal. The ONLY reason we have (variations on) dual systems nowadays, is so that if you pop something in the hydraulics, HOPEFULLY the "other end" of the car will allow you to get it stopped

"Drums" systems SEEM simple, but there is a LOT of little "gotchas."

Pickups especially..........marginal drum brakes on earlier pickups are EASILY made much much worse by installing large diameter tires!!!!!

If someone......over the years......has swapped something, incorrectly, such as too small wheel cylinders, too large master cylinder

I said this earlier PAY ATTENTION If the drums are too large oversize, the shoes won't contact the drums except in the centers of the shoe lining. The center part that hits is overworked, gets hot and glazed, and then it won't stop for anybody

Drums MUST be smooth, round, and not "bell shaped" (cylindrical all the way across, not tapered) They must not be turned "out" too large see above.

Rusted stuck cylinders, wrong linings (shoes) or shoes INSTALLED WITH secondary lining facing wrong way.

On some cars it is possible to end up with shoes which are correct except NARROWER than designed. This presents a number of problems
 
gdizzle said:
... But I do expect that if I am driving 30 mpg and slam the brake all the way down, that I should either skid or stop and/or the wheels should stop spinning. Is that correct?
Will keep you guys posted.
Click to expand...
What does "all the way down" mean? The pedal should not come even close to touching the floor. You can keep pressing harder, and it should build up more hydraulic pressure in the tubes. An NFL linebacker could certainly press harder than me.

First thing, back up many times in a parking lot, jamming on the brakes each time. That makes the self-adjusters work and should get the shoes at the right adjustment. If you get a hard pedal then, you may be done. If not, open the reservoir and watch as someone presses and releases the pedal. If you get a geyser of fluid from the bottom port, that is a sign of either air in the system or overly-flexible hoses (about to burst, like an artery in your brain).

Not sure why finding the hardware was tough. Next time, look for drum "hardware kit" in rockauto. I got at Autozone ~$12 for an axle. My 10" drums were harder to find than 9".

The comment that new imports can stop 3x faster than a Dart w/ 9" drums makes no sense. If you can skid the tires, no brakes would be able to stop any faster, and indeed you want to be on the border before skidding. Don't compare stopping distance spec's from the 1960's. That was for old bias-ply tires. You can get tires w/ quality as good as any import for your car, and it really matters. One article comparing tires on ice found that special snow tires stopped 2x faster than all-season tires, and that is a major difference.
 
I used a type 3 Volkswagen front end on my 110" FED and had a brake hose acting as a check valve because of internal failure. I'd roll into the pits and stop then try and push it through the lane and it took about a minute before it would roll easy. Just because they look good doesn't mean squat but... There is only one flex supply on the rear as mentioned so you would have an issue on both sides provided they are adjusted properly and no air in the system.
 
mguner said:
on my 110" FED.......................
Click to expand...

You are gonna havt'a decode this for me....................

I googled it and..........

i-tried-to-issue-interest-free-money-into-the-system-so-the-american-people-wouldnt-be-enslaved-by-the-banking-cartel-and-the-federal-reserve-had-me-killed-jfk-kennedy.jpg
 
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