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you said handy
Steve your brakelight switch is in the wrong hole. See pix below. Last pic is slotted hole it's supposed to go in. Big hole it's going into in your pic is the pivot bushing hole for the brake pedal
Look at photo in post 10 Brake lights turning off and on in the driveway Look at this eBay listing. (Manual trans car ) Slot is clearly visible for the brake switch brkt. 1967 - 74 Mopar A Body Clutch 4 Speed Pedals Dart Duter Demon | eBay.
I have never seen any with an adjustable switch. Only an adjustable bracket
You may be right Matt, I just grabbed bracket etc out of box. I will chk it out when I get home. I remember it was a pain in the arse to get the 67 working properly, very awkward spot with buckets console in the way. Said f it and bought an adjustable switch over the counter at parts store.
Is this the adjustable style switch that you are speaking of? looks like it has the same type of terminals for my current style. This is what i currently have
Standard male spade connector.
See, I told you they existed. I do not think they were ever installed as OEM Mopar. But they found their way into many cars.
Ok I will clarify. I never seen any "A bodies" with an adjustable switch. Only an adjustable mounting bracket.
Yes that's the type I am talking about, sorry I just realized I made another mistake and didnt post pics of threaded style. ** I could be wrong but with the 2 connectors, 1 goes to ground???** In original its grounded thru the steel ring that holds it in the bracket??
I dont believe its grounded thru the steel mounting ring. If it did, that would be a dead short to ground everytime you apply the brakes. Electricity flows thru the switch to the taillight, and ground returns at the lightbulb.
Thanks Matt, I'll take a look at my pedal puzzle in a day or so to see what's what. Good pics!
Brake, blinker, turn signal bulbs are grounded at the bulb. The brake switch takes 12v and pass it to the bulb. Your thinking of some door switches which make the ground for the bulbs
So what are the 2 connectors for on the adjustable style? If I'm gonna mess shit up I may as well learn too lol
Same as like the OEM switch. They are 2 open contacts. The button is spring loaded with a metal contact disc on the contact end to complete the connection between the 2
On an OEM style switch there are 2 terminals 12 volts goes in one and comes out the other when you press the brake pedal. If you are referring to the adjustable one in the link you posted I would assume it is two separate switches.
Aftermarket adjustable, two terminals on the rear end, Plastic housing no connection to ground ( single pole single throw) OEM style,bracket adjustable, two terminals, one on the end , one on the side. Plastic housing no connection to ground (Single pole, single throw) Some sort of adjustable, with 4 terminals have no idea how it's internal contacts are wired. Plastic housing no connection to ground (could be double pole, single throw)
3rd switch prob has extra contacts for cruise control.
well guys i am pretty sure i fixed the issue and way easier than i thought. Just had to loosen that bolt a bit and slide the bracket back a touch. Sure did not think by the look of the bracket that it would have been able to do that but literally took 5 minutes. However this forum is great for things like this and knowledge sharing. I appreciate the feedback. I did keep the switch i bought just in case. may invest in a threaded adjustable one as well just to have.
Yea! My dad had the opposite issue, where the light would stay on. He took it to a shop and their solution was to put a return spring on the pedal (unbeknownst to me). After I got the car I happened to be looking under the dash and saw the return spring and thought what the heck. I removed it and later my daughter asked why the brake lights were on. Like you, 5 minutes under the dash, and the switch was adjusted. No more problem!