Brake Pedal Return and Brake Lights.

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Soren

Soren

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I have new brakes all around (shoes, drums, cylinders, springs), new master cylinder (that included a new pushrod and boot). Everything is bled well. But, unfortunately, the brake pedal still does not return all the way up to hit the brake light switch. After I take my foot off the brake, I guestimate there is about an inch of travel when pull the pedal up to hit the switch so the brake lights go off. What should I be looking at next?
 
If the switch wont adjust that far ( probably wont ) a longer push rod. Adjustable pushrod is available in the aftermarket.
 
RedFish said:
If the switch wont adjust that far ( probably wont ) a longer push rod. Adjustable pushrod is available in the aftermarket.
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So, I am also guessing that from what you are saying the extra "play" I have with the brake pedal is ok, maybe not normal, but not doing any harm?
I'll take a look at seeing if I can adjust the switch. I just googled and most of those adjustable rods (the ones I found in about two minutes without really really looking) cost more than what my master cylinder cost :eek:
 
Maybe a bit jenky, but I think Ive seen a spring that returns the pedal so it will contact switch. New rod would be better
 
If there's over an inch of play that isn't returning you have the wrong brake pedal pushrod. It's not normal, and it's not ok. You won't have full travel to the floor either, which means you may not be able to make a full panic stop under less than ideal conditions.

You either need to track down the correct length original pushrod for your application or buy an adjustable pushrod. But you NEED to replace the one you have.

What master cylinder are you using?
 
72bluNblu said:
What master cylinder are you using?
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https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/wearever-master-cylinder-master-cylinder-domestic-10-43207/3831248-P The part number is the same part number as the one from A1 Cardone.
The pushrod that came with it is same length as the old one. One of the reasons I replaced it is because I was having the exact same issue with the old master cylinder. Plus the old master cylinder was just very very very old and ugly. With as much as corrosion and rust was going on, it may have been the original master cylinder.

I wont have a chance to do it today, but hopefully tomorrow I'll take a short video of exactly what is happening.
 
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Soren said:
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
I wont have a chance to do it today, but hopefully tomorrow I'll take a short video of exactly what is happening.
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No need for a documentary film. We've seen/heard this a bunch of times before. Why? Who knows? Maybe the bore in the back of master cylinders varies in depth.
We've seen the return spring rigged under the dash before too. There isn't a proper place for it. Going to drill holes for eye screw attach points?
"Rigging" anything about brakes is not safe. That spring just might pull the rod out of the master cylinder someday. Add the fact that the added pedal travel before braking will feel like air in the system or something waaaay out of adjustment.
There is some adjustment at the switch bracket. There are adjustable pushrods. Enough said.
Good luck with it.
 
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We assume you compared old and new correctly, i.e. aligned the flanges and saw the hole for the brake pedal was in the same place. If so, most likely your brake switch needs adjusting. You should always loosen it and adjust whenever changing MC and such. Amazing how many people here never figure that out. More commonly, their pedal bottoms out against the switch, which prevents the MC from fully retracting to expose the fill port. That causes worse problems. The switch should only sense pedal motion, not stop it.
 
Soren said:
The pushrod that came with it is same length as the old one. One of the reasons I replaced it is because I was having the exact same issue with the old master cylinder.
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It sounds like there was a preexisting problem in the linkage. IMHO it's worth figuring out what the real problem is and fixing that. Is something mounted in the wrong place? Do you have a factory service manual or another car you can compare it to? Just my $0.02. I think some quality photos or a short, clear video may actually help.
 
One more thing, might not be the case here but in the past I have seen car's that the pedal did not return all the way up to the brake switch, a few of them had the bolt from the push rod to the pedal over tightened which would not allow the pedal to return all the way. Something to look at it doesn't cost anything.
Bob
 
I've got this problem on two of my cars as well. The mechanic my Grandmother took the car to way back when, his solution was to cut off the bracket for the brake light switch and clamp the switch closer to the pedal with ViseGrips. My blue Valiant just started doing this.

Is this a wear problem that happens over time, or something that happens all of a sudden? The brake pedal seems to be in the correct position but there's a good two inches it will move up before it contacts the switch. How can that much space just happen all of a sudden?

Soren if you figure this out I'd love to know how you did it.
 
I had the same issue in my 64 sport fury when I changed from power drum brakes to power disc brakes, using the same booster. Made a custom length rod and all was well.
 
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