Brand new 340 and no balls

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Here is what the timing looks like from what I can tell. 12 degrees initial, with 34 degrees total by 3000 RPM, and with the vacuum advance 55 degrees
 
Not enough initial. Total timing at this point is irrelevant, you need to dial in the initial FIRST!

I'll go back to my cave...
 
I'll ad that changing dwell, or misadjusting dwell affects the timing. Timing does not affect dwell. Get the pressure readings, and then set the dwell to 28°, then set the timing curve up. It's low inital as Cracked yelled from his cave, and it's too slow coming in.
 
crackedback said:
Not enough initial. Total timing at this point is irrelevant, you need to dial in the initial FIRST!

I'll go back to my cave...
Click to expand...

As Cracked and Moper stated, bring that initial up, maybe 5-7 degrees. That will help with that cam, I can assure you.
 
I have an appointment to take it in to a precision tune shop on tuesday. Hopefully they will be able to set it right. What was the dwell supposed to be again... I read 28 degrees in an earlier post... is that correct for both sets.

Im not much of a mechanic but I would appeciate anything I can pass on to the mechanic that is going to do the tune up.


Ed
 
I set them to 28° on each set.I think the spec is something like 31°.
 
The way I remember dwell angle is at a .017 point gap it should be around 30* for one set of points and 40* for two sets of points. HTH.
 
Thanks Cracked, hopefully this shop will be able to get it set up properly.
 
Now I know this a duh....But I've seen the best of em forget this one.
Have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor (ENGINE OFF) and look down the carb and make sure it's getting full throttle. If ya did already forget I said anything. But I’ve seen it before.
 
you wiped out the cam if its popping out the carb - the exhaust lobe is gone -
 
I just took my car out for a little drive today. Still its really sluggish just no umph to it. When I got back I was checking the engine and put my hand on the fuel filter and it was very hot... same with the coil... is this normal or could this be the cause.
 
To all, I would just like to thank you all for your excellent help. Well it is running strong now!! I just got it back from a performance tuning shop.. many things were out that cause compounded problems.

Dwell way out, so now it is set to the factory specs as well the timing was set to 15 inital and 36 which seems to work a lot better with that cam

Carb accuation pump had to be adjusted as we as the fuel mixture.

the trottle cable slipped and wasn't opening the 4 barrels... I actually caught this one thanks beastie 340


The cam is comes in around 3000 rpm it is a not for low end so I will just have to live with that. But otherwise it runs great.

thanks again


Ed
 
Had the Dart on the Dnyo the other day. It looks like the Carb is still extremely rich especially when you get into it. It starts at about 13:1 ratio at idle but soon as you tromp on it... it drops like a stone.

By way it turned out about 360 hp at the crank with is not too bad. Still they say there is more left in it if I could get the carb working better.

Some have suggested to change to a Holley 650 double pumper.
 
I would go with a Holley..and maybe a lower gear in the rear to make it better off the line.
 
Sounds like you need a KNOWN good carb to swap out. This will eliminate the variable. If you do ONE thing at a time, this will help you figure out where the problem lies.
 
Holley carburetor!
Highest initial timing it'll start with!
full advance@2200rpm30-35*degrees total!

ahhh before it's too late! lol
[making fun of myself for use of exclamations]
 
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