budget build 360

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Scamper

Scamper

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Hi Guys,

I am open to suggestions Budget=3500
1977 std bore long block 360 ran good when pulled.
Machining up here will eat up 1500-1600 of my budget
I already have chinese version of airgap used, 650 thunder series carb used, brand new xe268h cam and lifters, but my brother will buy them if I change cam, windage tray and an older set of bare j casting heads were 1.88's
trans and torque seperate budget.
My goal is to be reliable and fast if possible, this should give a few a good laugh.
I am currently looking for a machinist locally and have asked the boys up here for recommendations, and now would like your opinions.

Thx
Don
 
The best bang for the buck would be to up the compression with an aftermarket set of pistons.
 
Get hardened valve seats installed on the exhaust valves if they aren't already and have the guy doing the valve job to open up the intake valves to 2.02"
 
Ok so new set of pistons (best compression with stock heads?) and get the heads opened to 2.02 with hardened valve seats.
Anything else although I think we are getting close to budget already.Carb came with the 77 block so why spend unless I have to.
 
use springs that match the cam (manufacturer's recommended springs)
new oil pump (not used)
new water pump/hoses
fresh radiator (they get lots of sediment over the years)
heads all cleaned up, seats as previously posted, new valves (the 2.02's will be new of course, but the exhaust valves usually get pretty bad over time, so the new seats / new valves on the exhaust are a good idea)
also if it's an auto you will probably want a new torque converter / manual you will want a new flywheel / clutch disc / pressure plate since those are a major pain to change after the fact.

everything torqued 100% according to spec
all clearances measured and set 100% according to spec

new rod bolts, mains are usually fine but i wouldnt trust old rod bolts it's worth the $50 bucks or whatever for piece of mind. they take a beating.

get a book on rebuilding small block mopars. this will give you lots of pointers and tips for a reliable build that will serve you well for a long time.
i like this one but there are several available
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Mopar-Engines/dp/0895861283/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1332160954&sr=8-5#_"]Amazon.com: How to Rebuild Small-Block Mopar Engines (0075478001286): Don Taylor: Books[/ame]
 
Scamper, I'm not that far south of you in Mount Vernon, WA. I am going a little different direction with my motor. I have a set of machined and ready to go J heads with 2.02/1.60 stainless valves and a Lunati 60403 cam/springs/lifters that are currently parked on an engine stand. They have been installed but never run. If you are interested PM me and we can talk.

Jason
 
With the stock heads, try for a zero deck height when the replacement slugs come to mind. Like the KB-107 or the Federal Mougal HP116 with the coated skirt. Some milling will probably be required. This will result in a 9.8-1 ratio, or real close to it. This is a bit much for a smallish cam like you have.

A thicker head gasket or not to mill the block would help lower the ratio some
 
12 valve pm sent.
Rumble what pistons if I plan at some point to use a 100-150 shot of nitros to make the extra hp that I lose from not being able to afford a stroker. If I run 9.5 or9.8:1 comp what cam should I upgrade to? I am buying a tcs converter 2400-2500 stall and a 727 built for 400-550hp. With the lower hp is line boring and decking the block necessary? My bro is willing to buy my cam for the 360 in his 69 dart

Don
 
I ran low 12's with that create short block and the cam it came with. (292/.509 purple cam)

The Hyper U's will handle a 100-125 shot. IDK and would be real careful with a 150 shot.

Scamper, is a gear ratio change coming?
 
I am fighting with myself on the gears 323's or 355's would be best but I really want 410's or 430's older I get the more I wanna act younger. That crate looks great but I have a feeling that I would get raped on the shipping to here
 
I really like that short block price. cant seem to see a contact to inquire on shipping or if there is a canadian distributor.
 
i emailed year one in regards to that short block. thanks 67cudafb for posting that link lets hope shipping doesnt kill me
 
Ah, yea, shipping over the border is a bastard to say the least. I'd skip the Y/O create or anything in the U.S. for that matter because it is so crazy. I sent a guy something and he got hammered so flipping bad. I felt , horrible! I had no idea.

On the gear set, do what you want to do. The draw back of the high gear ratio is low cruise speeds on the Hwy. With my 4.10's and a 26 inch tire, it was approx. 3300 rpm at 60-65 mph. Some where around there. It's been a long time. But I would drive it several hours at a clip. I think the longest was a little more than 4 hours from NYC to DC.

That torque converter is ok for the cam you have listed. It'll all work well with 3.55's out back. On the pistons in the block, see where they come up to. At a zero deck height and OE J heads, the ratio is right at/about the 9.8-1 mark. But if the piston sit'slower in the cylinder, the lower your comp. ratio will be. You'll have to do the math on it to see where it is at. Then, you and the machinist can go from there.

Should the piston sit in the hole, that is OK. The ratio drop may be enuff. No more than 9.5-1 with that cam. Going higher is pushing it. I'm not saying it can not be done, but a bad gas fill will ruin the day. Or if the ocatane needed isn't available. Day ruined.
 
90% of my driving is local and I love a kick in the *** when I jump on it and so does my wife (only lady I know of that broke both motor mounts in her 95 z24 back in 95 from hammering it off the light) If I go with thse pistons would I be better off to up the camshaft to a 509/292? what tq c would be needed then?
Thanks Rumble
 
If you want to set up to the plate a bit more like this, then the previous machine work question would be answer as, "It would be a very good idea to do so."

How fast do you want to go in the 1/4? Or is that even a care?!?!? LOL!!

Also, at this point, I'd recommend a pro converter place like Frank Lupo
s Dynamic converters or equal. Around here, a lot of guys seem to use approx. a 3500 stall with that cam. (292/.509)

OK, cam recommendation to go fast? A basically 10-1 360 with;

4.10 gears, the 292/.509 purple will get ya high 12's, mid 12's.

4.30 gears, the choice I myself would be (For the purple cam line up at least) would be the mechanical cam P4120655. 296/.557 (250* @ .050)

(I'll be using this in the next build with 1.6 rockers for .594 lift. I also run a 4spd.)
 
I posted my combo in the 12 second build thread in the race section... I wouldn't have 3500 in mine if I took out the cost to completely rebuild my X heads.
 
1/4 time is really irrelevant I am more old school in settling matters. The biggest matter is getting the most bang for my budget and I will admit I do like my cars to sound as well as they run
 
dartsport360 those are great times and probably within my budget. what do you mean by heads were decked a bit?
 
Scamper said:
dartsport360 those are great times and probably within my budget. what do you mean by heads were decked a bit?
Click to expand...

When I was looking for heads I was set on getting either a set of J's or X's... I found a set of X's in the by and sell for I think it was $300... I was young and didn't know anything and they were just bare castings.. I wanted heads to I bought them... they were a miss matched pair and one had been decked pretty good. They pressure tested fine so the other was decked to match the other, but they needed to be completely rebuilt... I might have $1000 in them and at the time I probably could have bought new eddy heads for close to that...

Anyway I could have probably just opened up my 75 heads and put bigger valves... If you took the money I blew on the head off my build I would be way under $3500...

Good luck, if you have any more questions feel free to ask.
 
Scamper said:
what do you mean by heads were decked a bit?
Click to expand...

Decking the heads is milling the cylinder side surface to be flat. And/or/also milling off an amount to reduce the amount of cc's in the heads chamber. Less cc's, more compression.

Dart Sport 360, WHY! didn't I think of sending him to the 12 sec. thread. Good answer!
 
i wouldnt put any machine work into it at all if you are going to hook up a nitrous shot. just use it as-is til it blows. buy a second motor from salvage for a spare so you can just plop it in when you need to.
 
If you're not gonna spray it, reuse the stock pistons. If they are original Chrysler cast pistons, they are high quality. If the bore looks good and it probably does, knock the glaze out with a ball hone. Loose is good with a high performance engine. Get the stock crank turned and new bearings. Have the block deck blueprinted to factory spec. It will be far enough out that that will add a nice chunk of compression right there. Save the most money for heads, induction and exhaust. Put you some of these on it to get compression up. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RHS-20301/ The heads are most important. As long as you are not gonna spray it, those factory cast pistons will be fine....regardless of what some of these forum "experts" will say. You'll have a really inexpensive short block with a great flowing set of heads. The cam and all the rest is up to you.
 
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