budget build 360

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Scamper, If you want that crate motor have it shipped to me and you can drive down and pick it up. I'm about 45 minutes from the border.

Jason
 
That is mighty nice of ya 12 valve.

Strokerscamp does have a good point that the stock bottom end, if in good shape can produce some good power. The only problem is the low height of the slugs. A small chambered head helps a good bit, but a high ratio may still be hard to obtain.

'77's can be down the hole a good bit. ECHO, echo, echo
 
A slick trick, now that I think about it, is/was the W2 head with the 55 cc chamber. On a low comp mill like yours, you can get about a 9.-1 with that head, or so, actually, depends on how deep the slugs are.

Then you could mill the head from there. MoPar used to sell that head in an assembly. Not anymore now. Just the Commando I think, but for surely the Super Commando. (Still can not find any info on it.)

IDK what kind of milling an Edelbrock can take. Or the ones Stroker posted. Just a thought, another possible route.
 
rumblefish360 said:
ECHO, echo, echo
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Good point lol.....but 9.1 is within reach with a small chamber, I would THINK. I don't know....seems I remember some of them sat like .170" or so down. That would be tough to overcome. Nuthin a little measurin caint confirm.
 
True. I do not have a stock engine around anymore to measure. Do you have a compression calculator on hand? Run the numbers with a 360 head @ 72 cc and a then again @ 65 for a typical Edel. head and again @ 55 for the W2. The head itself is available, just not assembled. (Another damn shame along with the W5 disappearing.)
 
rumblefish360 said:
True. I do not have a stock engine around anymore to measure. Do you have a compression calculator on hand? Run the numbers with a 360 head @ 72 cc and a then again @ 65 for a typical Edel. head and again @ 55 for the W2. The head itself is available, just not assembled. (Another damn shame along with the W5 disappearing.)
Click to expand...

Good idea. All these are with .170" deck clearance and zero piston head cc. So keep that in mind.

72cc= 7.4:1

65cc= 7.79:1

55cc= 8.48:1

Keep in mind this is also using .039 as a compressed thickness. I used .024 on the 55cc head for example and got 8.74:1. Plus, if your piston sits higher in the hole than .170", you'll have more there as well. That 55cc figure can be used for the W2 OR a slightly milled 302 or Magnum casting too.
 
I had dished pistons in my anchor so I swapped the pistons... everything else is stock in the bottom end. I just went to a flat top with a zero deck height and I'm right around 10:1....
 
Dart Sport 360 said:
I had dished pistons in my anchor so I swapped the pistons... everything else is stock in the bottom end. I just went to a flat top with a zero deck height and I'm right around 10:1....
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You mean a flat top with valve reliefs. You caint run a true flat top at zero deck.
 
Dart Sport 360 said:
Sorry, yes your right.... the point being, the stock dished pistons were more useful as ash trays....
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I agree...but they were better than you thought. Because the dish pistons have a taller compression height than the true flat tops. They probably work out the same. The dishes were intro dished for some of that emissions clean air crappola. lol
 
i agree with strokerscamp except that the cost of the kb piston kit (rings included) is like $350. that shouldnt break the budget. but dont get me wrong, a nice set of heads is probably the number 1 upgrade if you can afford it. they are the biggest bottleneck on most stock engines. plus the lower weight benefit, the better cooling, allows higher comp, better flow... so juicy. they are the best upgrade if you can afford it.

it would be nice if he could get a decent set of used alum heads donated or seriously discounted by someone here who has upgraded to hemi or big block or something and has an old set of aluminum small block heads sitting on a shelf collecting dust :D
 
Yeah, you're right....it would be super nice. But figure on borin....and bushing the rods for pins....I mean who wants to run KBs pressed? That's ghey. Then while he's at it, new rod bolts and resizin rods.....see, he....I mean I just spent 500 bucks of his money....AFTER piston purchase. LOL That's why I was sayin stock bottom end. Cause once you start, it's hard to stop...kinda like a bag of Ruffles.
 
Heads = Power for sure! At the time I didn't go with alum heads because I wanted the car to look stock... I knew it would be slow (12's) and I didn't want to be at the crappy tire cruise and people seeing alum heads and thinking it was really built up.

I don't know if the X heads that were posted above were around back when I got mine but that looks like a good way to go now for the money... you need everything else but its a good start...

Oh yeah, one thing you guys in the USA might not know... Here in Canada, we get raped on parts... totally raped, no lube, not even a reach around... I collected parts from ebay and brought parts back from the states when I could. Very little parts on my POS were purchased thru Canadian Speed Shops. You guys down there have it better then you'll ever know.
 
No kidding. Buy the pistons and then spend another 1000 to 1500 making em fit and work properly,lol...

I've got a stock bottom end 360 on a stand in the car port. What measurements you need?

In fact the motor is all stock 4bbl 360..

I think the KB 107 is one of the lowest priced 360 pistons.
 
Dart Sport 360 said:
Heads = Power for sure! At the time I didn't go with alum heads because I wanted the car to look stock... I knew it would be slow (12's) and I didn't want to be at the crappy tire cruise and people seeing alum heads and thinking it was really built up.

I don't know if the X heads that were posted above were around back when I got mine but that looks like a good way to go now for the money... need everything else but its a good start...

Oh yeah, one thing you guys in the USA might not know... Here in Canada, we get raped on parts... totally raped, no lube, not even a reach around... I collected parts from ebay and brought parts back from the states when I could. Very little parts on my POS were purchased thru Canadian Speed Shops. You guys down there have it better then you'll ever know.
Click to expand...

Boy you arent kidding! Prices up here arent stupid,just idiotic.

The best thing that could happen to Canadian motor sports enthusiasts would be a Canadian Summit racing type outlet.I NEVER buy hi perf stuff here.
 
No passport so that leaves me local. So stock bottom end,do I need all the machining or just an overbore. The reason I ask is half my budget will go into machining the block. I do at some point want to add a 100 shot of nos will the kb pistons work with this?
I wish on heads, I was going to get a set but they will eat up most of budget as it is I will have to wait and hope for a decent set of used to come along up here do to the border fees. I appreciate everyones advice so far.
 
I would invest in the bottom end. Build it to take the power for future use. The heads can be your limiting factor for now,they are easy to pull off and replace with a nice aftermarket down the road.

Give the factory heads some mods like bigger intake valve's and a lite porting clean up,better spring's.Run em until you have the new heads done!!
 
I was talking to a couple of places yesterday, to open the heads to 2.02, seats,springs,valves etc brings me close to 1000 not sure I want to open at that price eddy's 1500
 
If the stock bore is within spec and it has good Chrysler pistons, and you do NOT plan to spray it, I would spend the money in the heads like I outlined. With some smart parts deals you might could spend a little in both places. For 1000-1200 more bucks, you could spend both places and have a street killer.

...and I'm not tryin to fuel an arguement, I am just saying cylinder heads are most important. You're already on a budget. No plans to spray and cast pistons will be fine. You have money now, so spend it in the heads instead of replacing good parts...if they are good. Head work is expensive so that's why I was sayin to get some good heads worked up while you had the money. But hay, there's more than one way to do it.
 
As far as the heads, and any parts for that matter, the cheapest way will be to collect all the parts yourself from various places and then take the lot to the machine shop to have machined and assembled.... asking for the shop to supply any parts will kill your budget once they throw their "80%" markup on the parts. Your going to have to do the research yourself and gather everything you need. Time is money but your time is free...
 
Scamper said:
No passport so that leaves me local. So stock bottom end,do I need all the machining or just an overbore. The reason I ask is half my budget will go into machining the block. I do at some point want to add a 100 shot of nos will the kb pistons work with this?
I wish on heads, I was going to get a set but they will eat up most of budget as it is I will have to wait and hope for a decent set of used to come along up here do to the border fees. I appreciate everyones advice so far.
Click to expand...

actually some recommendations for using nitrous or superchargers:
1. aftermarket block with 4 bolt mains. factory blocks will hold up to a certain point. high boost or large shots of nitrous will eventually take a toll on a factory block. most aftermarket blocks are designed for race builds and have stiffer built main webs, sleeved cylinder walls, etc.
2. block fill - at least 1/2 - this will support the cylinder walls better
3. forged steel crank; not cast steel.
4. SFI approved harmonic balancer/damper
5. a nitrous cam grind that has more exhaust lift/duration/opens earlier
6. 3/8 minimum fuel lines, preferably dual electric fuel pumps... for redundancy. fuel pressure regulator, return line (keeps electric pumps cool by allowing circulation). if fuel pressure dies during a nitrous shot - yer dun son
7. high octane gas. low octane without using water injection or timing retard with the high load will usually cause detonation
8. forged pistons
 
I think you could do better than $350 for the KB's and rings. Regardless.... what I am seeing here is, well, there is more than one way to skin a cat.:prayer:
 
Hi guys

1st Thank you very much 12 valve for that offer it was very nice of you, and I may go get a passport.
I want to thank all of you for the advice, you guys know far more than I have time left to learn.So far as much as I would like a small shot 100hp it is becoming very apparent thats not going to happen unless I win a lottery. the w heads sound nice but I believe they are super expensive and also require different intake?At 1500-1600 the machining to the block scares me budget wise. The year one short block if I get a passport with rhs or eddy heads fits the budget,(they still have not gotten back to me with a quote) I always have bad luck though when I order something not local, no one to go to if something is not right.
For now I will spend zip until the right solution presents itself and keep asking questions and learning.
 
Good plan scamper. I have a complete 360 4bbl sitting here on a stand and covered. Im not using it,so if you decide you need a good running 360 give me a p.m.Surrey is only about an 8-10 hr drive from me.
 
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