ScampNYC
Well-Known Member
Yes, they cleaned it and installed new cam bearings. Not a caustic tank i don't think, more like a huge powerful dishwasher
Budget Build 5.9 for a 71 Scamp
- Thread starter ScampNYC
- Start date
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repeat after me: it can't be too clean
you'll get a dizzying array of suggestions here: baby diapers, lint free mirco fibers, only [x brand] blue shop towels, part of my mom's first wedding dress with mineral spirits, white gas, brake clean, gas [only premium from x brand because of their additive package], soapy water, WD...
and on, and on, and on.
the point is, clean it. then clean it again. then clean it right before you put it together, and clean as you go.
also ask the machine shop when you pick it up about care and feeding. they might say it's good to goat, rock on billy boy.
if i got a block back from the machine shop that needed two or three passes per cylinder to clean it off that would be the last time they got my money.
ScampNYC
Well-Known Member
Sounds good. I got the block and pistons, plus a bucket of parts I had them clean up for me, back yesterday. They delivered it to my house!
And they picked up my crankshaft to polish it.
They also brought 1 of the heads to show me. As somewhat expected, there is a crack between the seats, which was highlighted during magna-fluxing. The other head was crack free. We chatted about it on the phone and decided to run it .... so I put the head back into their van and they took it back to the shop to get the full treatment.
And they picked up my crankshaft to polish it.
They also brought 1 of the heads to show me. As somewhat expected, there is a crack between the seats, which was highlighted during magna-fluxing. The other head was crack free. We chatted about it on the phone and decided to run it .... so I put the head back into their van and they took it back to the shop to get the full treatment.
I’m following your build. I like how you’re doing it.
Get engine cleaning brushes, and clean every single oil passage until it’s clean, then do it some more!
Get engine cleaning brushes, and clean every single oil passage until it’s clean, then do it some more!
ScampNYC
Well-Known Member
Hey, coupole questions about my oil pump.
First of all, I bought a spring kit just for the plug, so I could replace the plug and properly clean the oil pump.
My assumption is that i should NOT use this high-pressure spring as my build is fairly mild.
Is that correct?
Also, while cleaning my oil pump rotor I dropped it on the cement floor. The sharp edge of the rotor got a little chip in it. Is this still usable? I polished it smooth, it doesn't bind up or anything when I spin it in the partially assembled oil pump.
First of all, I bought a spring kit just for the plug, so I could replace the plug and properly clean the oil pump.
My assumption is that i should NOT use this high-pressure spring as my build is fairly mild.
Is that correct?
Also, while cleaning my oil pump rotor I dropped it on the cement floor. The sharp edge of the rotor got a little chip in it. Is this still usable? I polished it smooth, it doesn't bind up or anything when I spin it in the partially assembled oil pump.
Jarlaxle
Well-Known Member
I'd send it. It's probably better than whatever Chinesium you can buy.
Stock pump, I'd use the stock spring. Any idea how many miles on your engine?
Stock pump, I'd use the stock spring. Any idea how many miles on your engine?
ScampNYC
Well-Known Member
I got a message from the machine shop last night. Turns out my crank needs to be ground! I sure am glad I brought it to the shop. I was going to polish it at home and use it. But they said the scratches were too deep and it needs to be ground down. So I guess I’ll be returning my bearings and getting oversized ones.
ScampNYC
Well-Known Member
Yeah, now that I know the crank needs to be ground, seems like whatever scratched the crank probably scratched the oil pump up too..?
MidnightSwinger
Well-Known Member
Send me a PM and you can have the one out of my rebuilt 5.9 with 6,000 miles on it for the cost of shipping. I’m upgrading to HV.
I thought the same thing, but I didn't want to be the first one to say it.
Bobzilla
Well-Known Member
Melling does offer a kit, part number K-72, to replace the internals of an original Melling pump, if your housing and cover are still in good shape.
Melling K-72 Melling Oil Pump Rebuild Kits | Summit Racing
Melling K-72 Melling Oil Pump Rebuild Kits | Summit Racing
ScampNYC
Well-Known Member
UPDATE!
My crank had to be machined. It is ready for pickup. They went down .010" on the main and rod journals.
I also went ahead and ordered a new Melling oil pump.
I retunred the standard-size bearings I had bought. But now I am wondering, am I better off with aluminum or tri metal bearings? I originally got the Mahle/Clevite P series tri-metal bearings, but now that I have a second shot at this and want to make sure that was actually the right choice for my application.
Thanks!
My crank had to be machined. It is ready for pickup. They went down .010" on the main and rod journals.
I also went ahead and ordered a new Melling oil pump.
I retunred the standard-size bearings I had bought. But now I am wondering, am I better off with aluminum or tri metal bearings? I originally got the Mahle/Clevite P series tri-metal bearings, but now that I have a second shot at this and want to make sure that was actually the right choice for my application.
Thanks!
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
Didn't your wife say that? lol
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
I just got me one of those for spraying penetrating oil. Ain't used it yet, so the jury's still out.
One of these. Blast out All the gunk with solvent. You'd be amazed how much comes out of a "clean" block.
Engine Degreaser Air Parts Washer and Cleaning Spray Gun (Includes 6' Siphon Hose) - Walmart.com
Engine Degreaser Air Parts Washer and Cleaning Spray Gun (Includes 6' Siphon Hose) - Walmart.com
I always put that spring in any build. It’ll raise your oil pressure about 15 pounds.
Drill about a 1/16 hole in the cap put a metal screw in it and pull it out with a pair of pliers. Then clean the pump and the pressure relief valve very good blow it out put the new spring in and reassemble.
The aluminum bearings are harder and less forgiving on a cast crank. The inbedment of debris (scoring) will be on the crankshaft surface versus the bearing.
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
Running that head is a mistake, IMO. You'll get a lot saying "I've run them forever like that" and on and on. What happens is, when the engine heats up, those cracks get bigger. They allow hot exhaust gases through and can burn valves. But good luck with it if you do run it.
RustyRatRod
Caput villa stultus
Use the high pressure spring. It hurts nothing.
Gonna scarf the valve face…
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