Budget tune 318 la

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Tommy Stark

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I'm from Sweden so pardon my English :p

Found a cheap roller 318 witch I'm guessing is a late 80s engine, the question is. Could I gain any power by taking the heads and roller cam from the 80s engine and mount on to my -74 318
 
714 or 302 casting heads could net you some extra power. Check you casting # on your 80's heads. Don't know if the cam and lifters would be a worth while swap. Aftermarket flat tappet cam and lifters would no doubt gain some power.
 
714 or 302 casting heads could net you some extra power. Check you casting # on your 80's heads. Don't know if the cam and lifters would be a worth while swap. Aftermarket flat tappet cam and lifters would no doubt gain some power.

Great thanks for the help
 
I'm from Sweden so pardon my English :p

I can't answer your question but will comment that your English is perfect! My wife and I were just in Gothenburg 23rd - 25th visiting FABO member Anders (360DartGT66) and found just about every Swede speaks good English!
 
I can't answer your question but will comment that your English is perfect! My wife and I were just in Gothenburg 23rd - 25th visiting FABO member Anders (360DartGT66) and found just about every Swede speaks good English!


Yep...the OP types in better English that a lot of the guys here. Sometimes I feel like I need a translator. Then I just say screw it and make up what they are saying in my head.
 
if the late 80 is an LA engine..uses shaft rockers the cam is good to go....need to check the nose of it to see if it still uses an eccentric for the fuel pump....the lifters are a no go.....late 80s lifters will be held in place with dog bones and a spider....they would work in a earlier 318....retrofit hydraulic rollers will be needed..

my 88 318 still has the fuel pump eccentric on it....it is in a D250....with hydraulic roller cam.....easy thing to do is remove the plate where the fuel pump goes and look in with a flash light and mirror..
 
I think it would be a lot of work for very little gain.
I have a 73 teener just like yours. It woke up with; a free-flowing exhaust and headers, a 2800TC, a small-port intake and 4bbl, fresh cold air induction, and of course the icing was lotsa rear gear. Lotsa rear gear by itself was a major improvement. And so was the TC.
 
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You guys are missing something IMPORTANT. The later "roller" cam WILL NOT FIT a 73 engine. The valley of the roller engine has tappings to retain the "spider" which retains the lifter guides, and THOSE must have machined places to fit around each pair of lifters. You can NOT just drop a factory roller setup into an earlier "non roller" block
 
Hi Tommy
let's talk Mechanics
you can't take a flat tappet grind and make it into a roller as the flank of the roller would have to go concave/ inverted and the side load (pressure angle) on the lifter would be too great.
Therefor a good flat tappet cam can give a roller a run for its money as far as duration and lift are concerned (we're not talking race durations here)
so a FT will work just as well
the difference is in reliability and less drag for the roller- not performance
the roller does not require the careful break in and special (for today) oil
I do not think the stock rollers will work in your early block and others have mentioned the fuel pump- there are 3 basic cam cores
one of which would work with electric fuel pump-
IDK if you can tap a early block for the spider but there are aftermarket solutions- IDK if you rollers will work with aftermarket retention solutions
see 67 darts post above
someone must have actually tried this already but lots of things to check
 
FYI this is what an LA "roller" or Magnum valley looks like with OEM valve gear

There are 8 "dog bones" the figure 8 shaped pieces that fit over the tops of a pair of lifters and keep them aligned. The block is machined to allow them to fit. Over the top of this is the spring sheet metal spider which holds them in place. The bolts are tapped into the bottom of the valley, so THAT is a difference

None of the earlier "non roller" blocks have these features

5.9l-magnum-engine-lifter-valley.jpg
 
if the late 80 is an LA engine..uses shaft rockers the cam is good to go....need to check the nose of it to see if it still uses an eccentric for the fuel pump....the lifters are a no go.....late 80s lifters will be held in place with dog bones and a spider....they would work in a earlier 318....retrofit hydraulic rollers will be needed..

my 88 318 still has the fuel pump eccentric on it....it is in a D250....with hydraulic roller cam.....easy thing to do is remove the plate where the fuel pump goes and look in with a flash light and mirror..
70aarcuda had this outlined in post number six. The camshaft will physically fit but requires aftermarket retrofit roller lifters to make it work.
I would add that if anyone is willing to by the retrofit lifters, you may as well buy a cam better than the factory roller as well.
 
Great and fast response on this page
Bunch of good ideas so I figure I'll just try to tune the original 318 I have in my dart
Cam,porting,intake and a bit bigger carb
What ignition system do you all recommend on a pretty basic engine? And what camshaft would u use in a simple setup like this?
 
Ever see what heads where on your late 80's engine? Casting # can be found under the valve covers. Pertronix has a good points conversion. DODGE 5.2L/318 MOPAR SMALL BLOCK LA PerTronix Ignitor III® Solid-State Ignition Systems
I like this cam for your situation. 20-221-3 - Xtreme Energy™ Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts
No haven't seen the motor yet
Could buy it for 60$ from a grumpy old man who wouldn't check anything on it, so i guess I could go have a look at it at least.
 
Looks to me like you could "just" put the roller lifters in a regular block, lay the spider in so that the guides were in place, and drill the holes for the hold down bolts, of course being super, super careful not to let any metal chips fall in if not working on a bare block.
 
...factory 318 cam is .399/.400 lift (depending on what source you use.

A $100 summit cam with .421 lift or the comp "256" cam or lunati equivalent, a "cheap" edelbrock performer 318 intake, and an also "cheap" 500-625 CFM AFB/AVS clone carb would be a crazy noticeable improvement, and not mess up any of the balance of the rest of the package (gear, converter, etc).

MPG might not suffer either.
 
Tommy
It is very easy to kill the bottom end performance with a slightly too-big hydraulic cam. Then you have to get a bigger TC and maybe more rear gear too.
If you are gonna cam it, I highly recommend a small solid lifter cam with a tighter LSA to maintain the same or similar ICA. Without a compression increase,your bottom end performance depends on that ICA
Your oem 1974 LA 318 was advertised with an 8/1 compression ratio, and came with a 240/248/112 cam.In at split overlap and at 500ft elevation, that would yield an ICA of 50* and pressure of 133@109VP. Read about VP here V/P Index Calculation
You already know what this feels like. Keep your eye on the pressure/ PV as I continue.
Say you put an oem 360-2bbl cam in there with specs of 252/260/112: The ICA moves to 56* and pressure to 126@100VP .
Or say the popular 262/270/110 cam: the ICA goes to 59* and pressure to 123@95VP .
Or the ever popular 268/276/110: the ICA to 62 and pressure to 119@90VP .
Are you seeing the trend here? The ever bigger cam trades away low rpm performance to get high rpm power, not the greatest thing for a streeter.Especially a small displacement one. a VP of 90 is down in slanty territory.You wouldn't like that.
Now it's true you can get the low-RPM performance back with a hi-stall TC. And you can get the low-SPEED performance back with more rear gear. But that costs money.
But here comes my point; You can install a fast-rate solid-lifter cam with a tighter LSA and keep most of that low-RPM performance, while simultaneously getting some hi-rpm power as well.
Say you found a 256/262/106 cam, with an ICA of 53* the pressure might be 129@104VP, so that is climbing back up. (Compare that to the original 133@109VP.) This cam will mostly preserve your current low-RPM performance
while yet increasing the hi-RPM power. I'm guessing this theoretical solid lifter cam might be around [email protected],after lashing, compared to the hydraulic 268 also at [email protected]; but remember that the latter cam only made pressure of 119@90VP. Furthermore, with the pressure/Vp restored to near oem levels, you could keep your current TC and gears...... at least for awhile,lol.
Of course the down-side is periodic lash adjustments, like once a year. The upside is better rev control so with the right springs, you can rev it till you can't stand it anymore; well over 6500 if you have done the oiling mods.
With this 256/106 cam the .050 spec difference to oem is about 29degrees so it might be considered 4 sizes bigger than the factory 240/112 cam. That is a lot.
I tell you this to try and save you a lotta money; the wrong cam comes with the additional one-time costs of TC,gear,headers, and a free-flowing exhaust; and the continuing cost of lousy fuel mileage.
On a side note, the 318 does very well with 4.10/3.91s and a .69 overdrive, as a streeter, even as a stock-cam,2bbl,single exhaust, power house.
Happy HotRodding
 
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I'm from Sweden so pardon my English :p

Found a cheap roller 318 witch I'm guessing is a late 80s engine, the question is. Could I gain any power by taking the heads and roller cam from the 80s engine and mount on to my -74 318

If you want a cheap increase in performance, find a 1993 or later magnum 318 or 360. Change over is not difficult and there are write ups here in this forum covering the swap.
 
It was my first plan to fix a magnum but the 2nd hand parts in SWE is almost non existing.
Engine ~ 700$
Parts to make it a carburetor have too be bought from the US, so SHIPPING fees,taxes, and a bunch of other cost would make everything almost twice the price it costs on summit :(
 
It was my first plan to fix a magnum but the 2nd hand parts in SWE is almost non existing.
Engine ~ 700$
Parts to make it a carburetor have too be bought from the US, so SHIPPING fees,taxes, and a bunch of other cost would make everything almost twice the price it costs on summit :(


How much are the taxes on say...a ProForm 750 double pumper carb and who is charging you the tax? Sweden or the US?
 
It was my first plan to fix a magnum but the 2nd hand parts in SWE is almost non existing.
Engine ~ 700$
Parts to make it a carburetor have too be bought from the US, so SHIPPING fees,taxes, and a bunch of other cost would make everything almost twice the price it costs on summit :(

Is tax the same if package is shipped to you as a gift from a friend?
 
If I'd receive a gift from the US the Swedish customs have some form of standard value of things and I'll have too pay 2,5 percent in customs fee on things worth up too about 900$ and also 25% VAT
Shitty custom service :p
 
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