Burnouts - What's the problem?

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9teen7tSwinger

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I cannot do a burnout... :burnout:

73 Duster 340 6bbl 727 pretty stock and 3.91 posi. There is no reason I shouldn't be able to light the tires up as needed/wanted. I try to power brake and it just wants to launch, which if I was racing would be a good thing. The car is in storage now but will be coming home shortly. I would like to have a plan of attack on how to fix the problem. I'm assuming I need to check the following:

Compression test
Timing
Vacuum issues

I'm in the process of ordering Edelbrock heads (60779) not necessarily hoping to fix the problem but to rather start the process of building the motor up. I'm gathering parts as I can and heads are actually being purchased as a gift. I am also looking into swapping the cam, if the need arises. So I am open to all suggestions at this point.

P.S. I'm sick of taking crap from my buddy who drives a Mustang 408W who lights them up at will through all gears...
 
First thing is your buddies 408W will have a ton more torque than your 340. It's kind of comparing apples and oranges.

Your 340 will be a low compression model, probably 8.5 to 1. I wouldn't get to big of a cam, maybe a Comp Cams 268H, nothing to much bigger. Maybe a M1 dual plane or similar intake. 750 or 780 Vac sec. Holley or similar carb. Decent long tube headers, they don't have to be the real pricey ones either. A convertor in the 2800 to 3200 range should pick it up as well.

Just a few thoughts.

Jack
 
3500 converter It will stall around 2800 - 3000 with your little motor. Had a friend who couldn't spin factory spares with 410's with a mild 340 in a 72 Charger. Put this converter in and he was fighting for traction in second with 275 60's
 
Coyote - I understand it's comparing apples to oranges, but irritating none the less. You think I should eliminate the current six pack setup and go for a 4 bbl? I will look into that camshaft as well. Do I need to replace lifters with the cam or can I use what I have if they look good?

Oldman - Good to hear your commentary. Hope you are feeling better a little more every day. My dad recommended a converter as well. I will definitely check into that as well.
 
a 360 with 3.91 gear should do a burnout easily. hell my stock 74 360 with a 2.94 gear and a 28" tall could burn the tires when i wanted it to.

sounds to me like there is a serious tune issue.

some more info is needed on your combo...
 
hmmmm probably torque converter is stockie and 6 pack bogging

if it was me... you *** could *** replace the top end while engine is in car, but...

you would be best off leaving it as is driving for now, build one with a single plane, 10:1 compression, 4bbl double pumper. get a converter ready.

it would be easier in the long run. the eddy heads will require some blueprinting work to make it right. you could just bolt them on and go but it will be better with adjustable rockers (suggested in their install docs) and cut-to-length pushrods. but making the top end nice without fixing the compression is not optimal.

for compression you can go 10:1 on super unleaded, but *** if *** E85 is readily available in your area you can go 12:1, which will give you amazing power and allow for bigger cams like a .590 . however, finding E85 pumps can tie your car down if it's a street car.

i'd find a nice 360 or 340 core to build up. save your money plan & swap it in when you are ready. it takes a long time so keeping your car intact for now is just what i would do. that way you can enjoy the ride while you are planning/building
 
my bone stock 318/727 2.91 duster will light em up barely standing on the converter. the only mods are an eddy intake and 1406 carb and headers. i have 225/70/15s on the back.
 
Coyote - I understand it's comparing apples to oranges, but irritating none the less. You think I should eliminate the current six pack setup and go for a 4 bbl? I will look into that camshaft as well. Do I need to replace lifters with the cam or can I use what I have if they look good?

Oldman - Good to hear your commentary. Hope you are feeling better a little more every day. My dad recommended a converter as well. I will definitely check into that as well.

No you can't reuse the lifters, they are mated to your current cam. The sixpac setup should be fine as long as it is in good working order and good tune. The converter is something we will all agree on.

Joe has a real good point on the tune issue.

Jack
 
for compression you can go 10:1 on super unleaded, but *** if *** E85 is readily available in your area you can go 12:1, which will give you amazing power and allow for bigger cams like a .590 . however, finding E85 pumps can tie your car down if it's a street car.


I live in South Dakota... our state is one of the major e85 distributors/manufacturers. It is available at almost every station in town and the surrounding area.
 
My usual comment, timing!

I agree with Joe, something in the tune up is way off.
 
What would you like to know? I will see what information I can get for you.

anyone that could possibly help ya out will need every bit of info you can provide.

motor? whats in it? completely untouched or is it rebuilt? if rebuilt whats in it?
cam specs?
distributor and how is it set up?
trans/converter (even a stock converter should be able to do a burnout)

and anything else you can find out about the combo.
 
Thanks for the help thus far guys. I think I am going to switch over to a 4 barrel setup...swap the intake, carb, cam, and converter. I will probably keep the iron heads for now and switch out the rest.

I'm looking at the M1 intake and a 750 carb from my uncle (holley I think). Any recommendations other than the 268H for camshafts?
 
Why throw parts and money at something that sounds like it needs a good tune up.

I'd ask what's it got for initial and total timing. If you timed it using the total method, that's the first place that is likely causing issues. You know the curve or the all in RPM?

It should KILL the tires regardless of converter, especially if you are brakestanding it.
 
I'll check the timing when I get it home. Like I said, I live in South Dakota and it's still in the 20's and snow on the ground.

I've never checked the timing but can figure it out. Can I go by this document?

[ame]http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf[/ame]
 
timing1.jpg


timing2.jpg


timing3.jpg


timing4.jpg
 
One step at a time. Not hard at all.

If you know your total number

Step 1. Find what engine wants for initial timing.
Step 2. Alter mechanical advance mechanism so you have total number = initial + mechanical
Step 3. Springs for how fast advance comes in.
Step 4 Vacuum advance.
 
I emailed a local mopar guru in my area to seek assistance. I will let you know what I find out once the weather warms up. Working out a deal to have him teach me to tune my mopar will more than likely be cheaper than swapping out intake, carb, etc.

Also, if I do not hear from him... does any one know people in the mopar community in South Dakota?
 
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