srixon4406
TURBO TOAD
Maddart what did you have your gas setting at also what current setting
Aaron
Aaron
Buying a Tig Welder & Taking a Class**
- Thread starter Mad Dart
- Start date
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mopardude318
Well-Known Member
Man you are so Badass!! 
Mad Dart
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I had it set at 12. I hit the foot pedal a couple times and adjusted it
so when it was running the gauge read 12.
I also used a gas lense/collet, 3/32 tungsten and a #7 cup.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Louis,after seeing some of your other mig welding I knew you,d pick it up quick.Next pics will probably look pro LOL.Now back to work on that TT beast!
Mad Dart
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I forgot to mention that I was using 1/16th filler rod.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
That's good **** Louis! Keep us updated on your welds, it's interesting to see your progress! Try out some aluminum next!
Mad Dart
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Thanks James! I was told that you should have a separate set up as far as Cups, Tungsten, Collets etc for Aluminum, Stainless etc because it contaminates the welding process if you don't.
I have some more parts and pieces on the way so I will have separate tackle boxes for each kind of metal, kinda like a fisherman.
Mad Dart
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We'll I never took the class. Time has not worked out for that just yet. I did however make some brackets for my 4 link and Tig welded them yesterday. I did Mig weld the inside of the brackets because it was too hard to feed the rod in the cramped area and see what I was doing.
I think these will work.
I think these will work.
The weld pattern looks good, nice coining and a pretty consistant pattern.
But I'd be a little concerned about the edges, they look like they're undercut in a few places, which does not make for a strong weld. The weld shouldn't be concave, it should be a raised bead, especially on the flatter, obtuse intersections. Obviously on the acute angle intersections you'll still have a concave bead, but it shouldn't cut into the plate.
Either add more fill rod as you go, or reduce the temperature slightly and slow down the speed you're laying the bead down at. You're moving the puddle faster than you're adding filler.
But I'd be a little concerned about the edges, they look like they're undercut in a few places, which does not make for a strong weld. The weld shouldn't be concave, it should be a raised bead, especially on the flatter, obtuse intersections. Obviously on the acute angle intersections you'll still have a concave bead, but it shouldn't cut into the plate.
Either add more fill rod as you go, or reduce the temperature slightly and slow down the speed you're laying the bead down at. You're moving the puddle faster than you're adding filler.
Mad Dart
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Yeah there is a bit of undercut. There is a HUGE canyon there where the metal is butt together. I did not fit it perfect by cutting everything on an angle. I was filling it with Rod where you see the Undercut on those angles. There is a whole stick of Rod in each of those. Remember I only have about 1 Hour of under hood time. I am learning the settings on my own with nobody's help at all, I will get it figured out. One thing I keep telling myself is to SLOW DOWN. This Tig welding is not Fast like a Mig.
I also noticed that it really depends on the size of Rod you use and type. I was using some generic rod from one
of my friends on some practice welds, it flowed almost too easy and was 1/16". I am sure that rod is not as hard as the stuff I was using here. It melted really slow and needed more heat it seemed to keep the puddle flowing it was however 1/16".
I also noticed that it really depends on the size of Rod you use and type. I was using some generic rod from one
of my friends on some practice welds, it flowed almost too easy and was 1/16". I am sure that rod is not as hard as the stuff I was using here. It melted really slow and needed more heat it seemed to keep the puddle flowing it was however 1/16".
Not trying to be critical, considering the amount of time you've been TIG welding you're doing great!
Just trying to help out. TIG welding is definitely NOT fast like MIG welding can be, the biggest limitation is really how fast you can advance your fill rod. With MIG welding you can just turn up the wire feed, but with TIG your going to run into how fast you can really advance the rod by hand. Once you've hit that limit, you just have to slow down the puddle movement to match your fill speed. Usually you can reduce the heat a little, since you'll get more heat into the metal as you slow down. And as you've discovered, the bigger the gap you have to bridge the slower you're going to have to go, because you'll need to add a ton of fill rod. TIG welding is pretty precise, you need to have tighter gaps and a much cleaner surface to get things to look right.
Just trying to help out. TIG welding is definitely NOT fast like MIG welding can be, the biggest limitation is really how fast you can advance your fill rod. With MIG welding you can just turn up the wire feed, but with TIG your going to run into how fast you can really advance the rod by hand. Once you've hit that limit, you just have to slow down the puddle movement to match your fill speed. Usually you can reduce the heat a little, since you'll get more heat into the metal as you slow down. And as you've discovered, the bigger the gap you have to bridge the slower you're going to have to go, because you'll need to add a ton of fill rod. TIG welding is pretty precise, you need to have tighter gaps and a much cleaner surface to get things to look right.
Mad Dart
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I know your not knocking me down. I do that on my own!! haaaa
Any help I can get will get me along faster. There is no way I would take on a set of Stainless Headers just yet cause I need alot more under hood time and the patients for correct prepping. I'll get it there, it will just take some time.
Any help I can get will get me along faster. There is no way I would take on a set of Stainless Headers just yet cause I need alot more under hood time and the patients for correct prepping. I'll get it there, it will just take some time.
Looks great, Louis. Better than I can do.
Badart
Senior Member
Looking great Louis. Those welds look super strong. Don't sweat the stainless, I think it's easier to weld than mild, because there is less impurities in the metal.
Mad Dart
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Thanks guys, it will get better with more practice. The Plate with the holes drilled is Chromoly and the gusset's and backing plate are Mild steel on these brackets. I have no experience yet Tig welding Stainless or Aluminum. I have some aluminum rod but no stainless rod.
For welding chromoly there's a couple extra things to be careful about vs just regular mild steel. You'll still use a mild steel rod (for most compositions), but you don't want to get the chromoly any hotter than it needs to be, or "go over" your welds, 1 pass only if you can do it.
Chromoly has a higher percentage of carbon in it. It makes the metal harder and stronger, but with a catch. When you heat it to melting, the carbon can actually migrate within in the metal. It tends to localize at the weld joint, which can make the weld brittle. The higher the percentage of carbon, the worse the carbon migration gets, and the more brittle the weld becomes. Some chromoly alloys have to be heat treated after welding to return them to a uniform composition.
Anyway, the hotter you get the metal the worse it gets. And if you have to do multiple passes, it allows the carbon to move closer to the weld. Not a huge issue with 4130, but with other compositions it can really be a problem.
Chromoly has a higher percentage of carbon in it. It makes the metal harder and stronger, but with a catch. When you heat it to melting, the carbon can actually migrate within in the metal. It tends to localize at the weld joint, which can make the weld brittle. The higher the percentage of carbon, the worse the carbon migration gets, and the more brittle the weld becomes. Some chromoly alloys have to be heat treated after welding to return them to a uniform composition.
Anyway, the hotter you get the metal the worse it gets. And if you have to do multiple passes, it allows the carbon to move closer to the weld. Not a huge issue with 4130, but with other compositions it can really be a problem.
BigWhip
New to Mopar land
Your buying a great welder that was mostly used in schools and factory work. A good welding shop can get parts for it. The L-Tec company is now called ESAB. You will never ware it out. Enjoy
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