74 360 dart sport
Well-Known Member
Hi after bypassing the dual ballast resistor do you leave the wires unconnected from the resistor or plug them back into the ballast resistor thank you Tom N.
Bypassing dual ballast resistor
- Thread starter 74 360 dart sport
- Start date
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Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Depends how you did the bypass. Just jumper wires? Then shouldn't matter, if you're trying to keep the "stock look" plug 'em in.
Are you changing over to an aftermarket ignition? What type? If you're keeping the Chrysler electronic, get ready to burn up some coils and ignition modules.
Are you changing over to an aftermarket ignition? What type? If you're keeping the Chrysler electronic, get ready to burn up some coils and ignition modules.
74 360 dart sport
Well-Known Member
Yes I put a msd ready to run distributor I have a dual ballast resistor 1 side has a jumper in it from the factory it has a light tan with a large blue the jumper to this is I believe brown tan on the bottom and blue on top the other plug has 2 wires with no jumper in it 1 on top is green and the 1 on bottom is I believe brown I disabled the green because that went to the old 5 plug ecu do I now take the brown wire from the plug that had the green wire that I disabled and connect that to the bottom tan wire or the top blue wire of the plug that has the factory jumper wire
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Going by your screen name, I take it that you're working on a '74 Dart Sport?
If you're running MSD, then I assume "stock looking" isn't an issue. Take the two wires that feed into the ballast from the ignition switch (these are your IGN1 and IGN2 circuits, one supplies voltage during "crank" and the other supplies voltage during "run") and splice them together, and connect this splice to your MSD feed. Then you can just get rid of the ballast and the Chrysler ecu entirely.
And while you're in there cutting and splicing, get rid of that '74 one-year-only seatbelt ignition interlock, too. Search for threads.
If you're running MSD, then I assume "stock looking" isn't an issue. Take the two wires that feed into the ballast from the ignition switch (these are your IGN1 and IGN2 circuits, one supplies voltage during "crank" and the other supplies voltage during "run") and splice them together, and connect this splice to your MSD feed. Then you can just get rid of the ballast and the Chrysler ecu entirely.
And while you're in there cutting and splicing, get rid of that '74 one-year-only seatbelt ignition interlock, too. Search for threads.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
There's only two of the 4 need bypassed. If you look at the 4, there's a short jumper between two. This common connection comes power from the key switch. One of the other two goes to the coil so check that for continuity. The 4th goes to the "5th pin" on the old box so you don't need it.
No need to connect them back to the ballast except "appearance" or just a place to hang them.
No need to connect them back to the ballast except "appearance" or just a place to hang them.
Tom,
This 'problem' comes up all the time. There is another thread on this currently running. If you are using the factory coil, or any coil that requires a ballast resistor [ most canister coils ], then the BR must be retained. 0.5 ohm for the factory coil.
The RtoR requires the FULL 12v. The wiring becomes a bit tricky in this situation.
This 'problem' comes up all the time. There is another thread on this currently running. If you are using the factory coil, or any coil that requires a ballast resistor [ most canister coils ], then the BR must be retained. 0.5 ohm for the factory coil.
The RtoR requires the FULL 12v. The wiring becomes a bit tricky in this situation.
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