C body 383>

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Check out Schumaker for kits, to fit your B/RB into your A body. You can go with a K-member, if you can find one, don't know if mopar performance even offers it anymore.
 
u can get conversion mounts there schumacker at engine-swaps.com, also u need to notch the k-member a little for the oil pump clearance. u can also use the the schumaker headers or tti headers. check website out at http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/TechInfo.html for more questions u may have. u can also view this one as well.http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/techindex.shtml

fyi a 383 isn't such a pain to make it fit in a-body compared to makin a 440 fit in a-body. i just put a 383 in my duster.
 
ok, thanks. was gonna look for a mid 70's v8 k with disc brakes. figured that would be easiest start. so the rest of the car would be for parts and scrap? also would the column shift tranny be a direct fit with my column shift?
 
May need to shorten the linkage cross shaft, but it should work. I know a column shift C body trans will replace the trans in a console auto car with zero hassles. Grab the 8 3/4" rear too.
 
Sounds good. Being a Vert, how much frame strengthening and/or added bracing is gonna be needed. Going to do a ton of reading and probably asking more redundant questions then needed, but wanna get it right.
 
My son's 67 Dart convertible has a 440 with a four speed and the only real frame stiffening is the sub-frame connectors. The body feels considerably stronger than it does on our 68 340 GTS convertible. I'm putting a 440/auto into my 67 Barracuda convertible with only sub-frame connectors for stiffening.
 
Sub frame connectors alone will be fine for most usage, I much prefer the weld in type. I'm pretty sure the C-body oil pan will work fine, I used it on my first backyard build, a '72 Valiant with a 383 from a C-body. Do some searching, there are several options for exhaust, from the manifolds from the C-body, to race headers. This swap can be done very cheaply if you do some thinking. I had $400 in my first swap, car included. I made my own mounts, used the stock C-body pan, and trans with a home made shift kit, the column shift from the Valiants slant-6 worked, the C-body radiator even fit between the rails and worked. It doesn't have to be a big deal. Have fun.
 
Do most 383 block have a heater cord hanging out the bottom?
Is this typical or do I have a motor that was transplanted from a Motorhome? I haven't looked for block numbers yet. Will soon.
 

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Could have had a freeze plug replaced with a block heater or could have been factory as well.
 
Block heaters are common in cold weather areas. They just replace a freeze plug and normally the cord is routed out the front of the car somewhere. Can be done to any 383. Not indicative of a motor home motor.
 
I think the c-body oil pan will have the clearance needed for steering linkage.
 
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