California Flash

-
Thanks guys...multi use piece that accepts A body OEM k-frames and HDK k-frames. Easy to check fitment with various engines and components, running or not.

I have access to a dyno ($$$) within 15 miles but I am more interested in verifing that there are no oil leaks, no overheating, and a smooth idle with a nice transition to power.
 
JDMopar said:
I totally agree.......but just wondering if the radiator overflow bottle belongs to Denny, or John?

:poke: :lol:
Click to expand...
yesterday's lunch.....no apologies, I'm the healthy one @ 175 (wouldn't hurt to drop to 165)
 
Last edited:
OER purchased from Summit / Atech. The best deal is on the complete package instead of piece meal. I have a wholesale account and I think I have around $800 in it.

as stated in the past...fit and finish is 10 out of 10
 
with 1/4" shims between both insolators and the K ....here is what we got now

20210305_105345.jpg
 
Butch ordered the "mini Thunderbolt / fresh air" option. All done dialing in the little stuff, so now its time to take it off the stand and pretty it up, not sure what color yet,.............. then slip it in the car.

20210318_134746 (1).jpg


20210318_134639.jpg
 
Last edited:
Butch's 427 cu in / dual 650 cfm carbs / Thunderbolt. He says those are 5" hoses....and the cool air helped. His 408 street Flash has one Eldlebrock 750 cfm w/ dual 4" hoses.

19043.jpeg
 
And where will the hoses run too to pull fresh air? Maybe to openings cut in the grill?
 
TF360 said:
And where will the hoses run too to pull fresh air? Maybe to openings cut in the grill?
Click to expand...

still up for debate. We are looking at the extreme right and left side of the valence opening just above the bumper, but I have an idea that doesn't involve cutting any holes to work thru first.
 
You can get a tremendous amount of air out of the cowl, but I don't know if I could cut holes in the corners of those freshly painted lower cowl corners to do it! :realcrazy:
 
JDMopar said:
You can get a tremendous amount of air out of the cowl, but I don't know if I could cut holes in the corners of those freshly painted lower cowl corners to do it! :realcrazy:
Click to expand...

IMO, this car is way to finished and nice (unmolested / rust free) to start cutting on. The only place I would consider cutting an incognito hole would be in the radiator support / front fender flange right behind the outer edges of the front valance opening.....and I am not sold on that program just yet.
 
I have been thinking about a similar plan for my 360 Duster. The new Challengers (392 and above cars) use those Front light openings for air. That's where my thinking was going, but you can't cut that new Sharks tooth grill.
 
TF360 said:
I have been thinking about a similar plan for my 360 Duster. The new Challengers (392 and above cars) use those Front light openings for air. That's where my thinking was going, but you can't cut that new Sharks tooth grill.
Click to expand...

stay tuned....I got an idea.
 
end of March update.

Just finished a busy couple of weeks cranking out the HDK packages and coil over kits. Can't wait to get back to work on Butch's ride. At least I get to keep it in full view during pre-assembly and packaging of the HDK's just a few feet away.

Although the differential package was installed and almost complete, it will be coming out and replaced with a 2" narrower housing. Unfortunately, the wheel style we wanted was not available in the offset needed to move the tires 1/2" further inward. The current axles will get milled / cut down 1" per side along with 1/2" less offset (deeper dish) than the rims used for test fitting. That will place the tire in the optimum spot and give us a deeper dish wheel.

Now back to getting the engine painted, reattached to the transmission and installed into the Duster for good.
 
Last edited:
dash is finally in place. I ended up shelving the scratchy OEM AM radio and replaced it with a Retrosound AM / FM piece. It has the 72 Duster OEM look with modern guts and when turned on....the LED radio station comes thru. At $209, it actually sounds pretty good with their single center speaker. The package was around $300 to my door with the OEM faceplate sticker and speaker, etc. Big sound improvement over the 50 year old OEM radio.

In my day....a good sounding radio was worth at least 5 to 10 HP

20210415_122514.jpg


20210415_092200.jpg


20210415_092149.jpg
 
Last edited:
Even though everything possible gets bench tested, on the last few builds I have been plugging in an old ignition and turn signal switch to verify everything dash related works....turn signal, 4-ways and high beam indicators, e-brake light radio, fan switch, dash lights as well as all other electrical before the column assembly goes in. With a factory A/C car , there is virtually no room under the dash. I will fire the engine to verify no heater core leak and likely charge the A/C BEFORE the windshield goes in....just in case. It is a MFer to remove the HVAC with the dash in.
 
I do pretty much the same thing with a dash. I bench test it to see if all the stuff acts right. I'm kinda paranoid about dash grounding problems, which is where most of the trouble comes from after a resto. I always leave the backside of the slots in the dash frame, where it bolts on at the door jambs, bare metal with dielectric grease on them. I will leave an area around the bolts in the door jambs bare too. That way, the dash frame is assured good ground. I test again when it's bolted in, before the windshield goes in just like you did. I just hope I don't get Alzheimer's before I'm done with cars, and forget all these lessons I've learned the hard way! :eek:
 
Looks great Denny. Did you keep a factory antenna with the new radio?
 
Denny, can you believe they produce that Radio! Factory knobs and everything. I bought one too
 
I would do it again especially since once you do one, the next one is cake. I use only the center dash speaker and bought the low end / minimum model, I can't image the sound with the upgraded radios and adding a few more speakers.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top