Cam Degree.... is close enough

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Rbob

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So,

I did the Intake center-line method and my cam card says 106 intake center-line, I can get it to 107 intake centerline.

Should I worry about it, go get a offset key or "forget about it"

By the way I am a believer now on degreeing your cam thanks to this site.

I am a novice at best and guess I have been lucky a few times but this motor would have been way off had I not checked.

Thanks FABO!
 
Is it a street engine or race ? if it a street engine two degrees change it one degree leave it but on a race application one degree change it.
 
When i was himming and hawing about whether or not to degree mine, plenty chimed in advising me to go ahead with it. When I posted about "How close is close enough"...Most thought that if your within a degree, thats close enough.
Think about THIS: Most timing chains will stretch a few degrees within 10,000 miles of "easy" driving. If you start out one degree advanced, in short time you'll be on target and in a few thousand miles you're timing will be slightly retarded.
 
MOPAR PERFORMANCE TRACK CAM INSTALLATION states ..note : changing the cam shaft center line one degree will not be seen in engine performance
 
1 degree isn't worth chasing. Won't make that much difference.
 
Mr Gasket sells a 2* off set cam key if you were to want to go 1* advanced part # 987 G just bought one for $10. But I would agree that it is probably not worth it. My cam was either 110* or 106* on the +4 and I wanted to be @ 108*
 
When i was himming and hawing about whether or not to degree mine, plenty chimed in advising me to go ahead with it. When I posted about "How close is close enough"...Most thought that if your within a degree, thats close enough.
Think about THIS: Most timing chains will stretch a few degrees within 10,000 miles of "easy" driving. If you start out one degree advanced, in short time you'll be on target and in a few thousand miles you're timing will be slightly retarded.


My timing slightly retarded

Story of my whole life...../ funny sh*t

Calling good thanks!
 
Think about THIS: Most timing chains will stretch a few degrees within 10,000 miles of "easy" driving. If you start out one degree advanced, in short time you'll be on target and in a few thousand miles you're timing will be slightly retarded.


You must be running the stock 318 timing chain then....


I installed an Edelbrock true roller double roller timing chain on my 318 and drove it 130, 000. It needed the bottom end refreshed after that, so I bought a new timing chain (same one) and when I went to take the old one off, it was barely stretched and didn't need to be replaced. I threw the new one in anyway as I got it for $60 and I already had fresh rings and bearings, may as well put the new chain on. I put 250,000 miles on that one and had to pull the engine because the body and frame were going out...


If you buy a good double roller timing chain, it will last longer.
 
The only true way to know if your cam timing is spot on for your engine is through R&D while slightly advancing the cam or retarding it during each test. Degreeing just gives you the cam designers starting point. Just putting the cam spot on the recommended setting does not guarantee the most power.
 
The only true way to know if your cam timing is spot on for your engine is through R&D while slightly advancing the cam or retarding it during each test. Degreeing just gives you the cam designers starting point. Just putting the cam spot on the recommended setting does not guarantee the most power.

Agreed... I usually run the mopar performance cams 108* centerline @ 104* in a short stroke 340 or even 102* if static compression is lower than Id like. It really depends on the complete build and weather you are trying to get the most out of your cam or just a descent cruiser.
 
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