Cam spec help

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twayne24365

twayne24365

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Trying to decide what cam to go with, want a solid though.

.30 over 440
Stock rods
L2295 pistons
Should be between 10.7-11:1
Full port big valve 452 heads
Torker intake
Holley 800dp
Car is 3250 with me
3500 converter with 26" tires and 3.91 gears
 
I know they say bigger isnt always better but i always liked a bigger cam... What was your first choice going to be?
 
I have a NIB big Lunati solid for sale in the for sale section for 120 shipped. That's a 200 plus dollar cam.
 
Abodybomber said:
No Offense ,what valve train? .This kinda ,helps...

,
Click to expand...

Yep! And I wonder how well the "full port" heads flow? Might be able to up the lift some to take advantage of them.

Howards offers some decent lift grinds in the 250*ish range, but I believe all the off the shelf stuff is a 3 bolt, if that matters.....
 
For valve train i have a set of crane ductile rockers, and the heads flow 270 @.500 and 279 at .600 they fall off after that
 
How much of a driver is this car going to be twayne?

I actually love your combo as it reminds me of quite a few builds I did many moons ago. For mainly hot street with local limited use, i loved doing the, not too much gear, fairly tight converter, single plane, big carb, and a cam geared toward the upper mid range to top end.

A combo like this will be less "drivable" compared to a mild driver, but.....the somewhat lack of low end keeps you from blowing off the tires and once you're rolling, say bye bye to the poor schlub next to you.:D

If you plan on some track time and are concerned about 1/4 mi numbers, a milder grind geared toward mid range torque may actually give you better times via a quick 60' with some slicks or sticky tires.
 
it will mostly be a hot street car and i plan on taking it to the track on weekends. i also forgot to mention that it has dual vlave springs with a dampener, i cant remember the installed hieght at the moment but it remember they are 150# on the seat and 380#open with 10 degree comp retainers and locks, and yea i would say a big cam in a street strip application would be over .600 lift
 
the MPP 242/528/112 cam will put you in the 500hp range and has decent street manners. I've had 2 of them.
 
I have ran comp cams in a similar combo with the 1st being a specialty cam a solid..part #21-626-5 grind #300A8 562-265-300 LS 108..very good cam and next was a comp 306S 555-262-306-110 also a good cam...now I'm fixing to run a comp XS290S 540-558-252-260-290-298-110 but with much lower compression....voodoo cams makes decent cams, Rob[RustyRat Rod ]has a couple,and I like the smaller one he has....ran a comp solid one time in a 440 duster was a 525-305 and I didnt care for it at all....it's a bit confusing when making a cam choice as I always overthink it myself....just make sure you have adequate valve clearance,what is your piston deck height and head cc's....I plan on running pump gas in mine this time so my comp has to be lowered and plan on 9.5 or lower and after reading IQ52's post I may do something along those lines and with what he acheived with 8.8 comp is what I want to do on pump gas...good luck..keep it fun
 
I like Rusty's smaller one for price and size. I love the the MP .528 but IMO and experience it will cause a problem with pump fuel if the static compression is an honest close-to-11:1.
Also - I would replace the springs if they are not exactly what your final cam choice's manufacturer specifies.
 
Call a couple custom cam grinders for their recommendations,
then if you don't like their recommendations/prices ,
use their info to buy something in a cheaper more
utilitarian line.

Moper is dead on with his advice on the springs.

I see RustyRatRod is offering a service that will let you
change parameters on different cams/designs.
Might let him crunch some numbers after you narrow it
to a couple or so cams.
The more accurate your input data, the more precise
his output data will be.
 
moper said:
I like Rusty's smaller one for price and size. I love the the MP .528 but IMO and experience it will cause a problem with pump fuel if the static compression is an honest close-to-11:1.
Also - I would replace the springs if they are not exactly what your final cam choice's manufacturer specifies.
Click to expand...

So you are saying a smaller cam will be better on pump gas and higher compression?
 
I am also curious about this, can someone confirm or deny? I already put my engine together with a MP cam 241/485/108, stock springs. I bought the cam thinking it wouldn't be too outrageous, albeit a bit lopey with the 108 lobe separation, thinking it (overlap) would lower my "effective" compression ratio a little for use with pump gas. I am GUESSING that I have somewhere between 10.5:1 and 11:1 with my combination. I don't have the car put back together yet, I have driven it up the street and back a couple times since the cam break in. It will not be a drag car, it may see the strip once or twice just to see what it does. Oh yeah, 3.23 gears and stock convertor for now. Torker intake and Eddy 750.
 
The pistons are about .040 in the hole and my heads average cc is 85. I have read that the l2295s have a 12 cc dome, i have radiused the sharp edges of the domes off. Im not sure how many ccs that removed. Calculators say it should be 10.6:1 with .039 head gasket and 11:1 with steel shim. I would like more compression but for the street i would have to take out alot of timing to run pump gas
 
cletus said:
I am also curious about this, can someone confirm or deny? I already put my engine together with a MP cam 241/485/108, stock springs. I bought the cam thinking it wouldn't be too outrageous, albeit a bit lopey with the 108 lobe separation, thinking it (overlap) would lower my "effective" compression ratio a little for use with pump gas. I am GUESSING that I have somewhere between 10.5:1 and 11:1 with my combination. I don't have the car put back together yet, I have driven it up the street and back a couple times since the cam break in. It will not be a drag car, it may see the strip once or twice just to see what it does. Oh yeah, 3.23 gears and stock convertor for now. Torker intake and Eddy 750.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately just increasing the overlap (tighter lobe separation) doesn't reduce cylinder pressure. Increasing the overlap that way will close the intake valve earlier and increase cylinder pressure. A wider lobe separation closes the intake valve later and decreases the cylinder pressure. So, changing nothing else and going from 108 LS to 110 LS will improve detonation resistance. Sorry but you went the wrong direction.
 
longarm said:
Call a couple custom cam grinders for their recommendations,
then if you don't like their recommendations/prices ,
use their info to buy something in a cheaper more
utilitarian line.

Moper is dead on with his advice on the springs.

I see RustyRatRod is offering a service that will let you
change parameters on different cams/designs.
Might let him crunch some numbers after you narrow it
to a couple or so cams.
The more accurate your input data, the more precise
his output data will be.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the kind words, sir.
 
call Erson cams, get their imput, they have some real nice grinds
 
IQ52 said:
Unfortunately just increasing the overlap (tighter lobe separation) doesn't reduce cylinder pressure. Increasing the overlap that way will close the intake valve earlier and increase cylinder pressure. A wider lobe separation closes the intake valve later and decreases the cylinder pressure. So, changing nothing else and going from 108 LS to 110 LS will improve detonation resistance. Sorry but you went the wrong direction.
Click to expand...


I always thought more duration would make it more pump gas friendly. I never knew lobe separation affected it as well. This might explain why i've never had an issue with detonation in either of my 440's.
 
OOoops. Good thing I know what pre-ignition sounds like, I was planning on running 92 in it all the time anyway, we'll see what I get away with for timing advance.
 
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