Camshaft Removal

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HRS-CL721941-12 ....
Nice cam choice....Springs,matching retainers,& new retainer locks would be sweet. That beastie will lay some serious rubber in a 440....
 
I don't mean to rain on your parade, but it seems like there are some problems here that could turn out very badly for you.

Rumblin_440 said:
I've put the pushrods and rocker arms back on and turned engine over multiple times and didn't notice any problems.
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If you did this with hydraulic lifters, then the lifter was collapsed as you rotated the crank by hand. This effectively reduces the lift at the valve and is not an effective way to measure valve to piston clearance. When the engine is running and the lifter is at full hydraulic pressure, then you very well could have interference.

Rumblin_440 said:
Yes I piled on the assembly lube and by multiple I only meant about 3 to 3.5 times and of course its still by hand as I have not yet put the engine in the truck now that I'm learning of all these extra steps I didn't see coming.
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Too late, your lube is already gone.

Think of it this way: if your springs have a closed pressure of 85 lbs and an open pressure of only 215 lbs and you have stock 1.5:1 ratio rocker arms, then the pressure applied by the lifter to the camshaft lobe is between 128 and 333 lbs. That much force will scrape off a whole lot of lube in 3 to 3.5 revolutions. At this point your engine will need to fire immediately (likely 1 crank or less) on first start up to avoid wiping a lobe.

Btw, if you're using valve springs as weak as the ones I listed here with that .518/.543 cam you will experience valve float and lifter pump-up at best, or you'll have a valve kiss a piston at worst.

Sorry to be a buzz-kill, but I see a complete engine rebuild in your future if you keep going down this path. If you get the right springs for that cam and install it correctly, you could still have a screaming 440 though! Good luck, I hope it turns out well.
 
Well it looks like ill be ordering new springs then does anyone have any idea the specs on what ill need feel free to throw in anything else that's an absolute neccesity at the this point. Thanks in advance.
 
I feel bad for you and hate to add anymore to the equation...But, since it hasn't been mentioned, you're gonna need to watch the retainer to guide/seal clearance at full lift. And you need to be sure the guide bosses are going to be compatible with the spring you choose. Meaning a dual spring wont be a bolt on with un-machined stock guides.

Really, I'm sorry!
 
This is unbelieveable I couldve swore I made it clear on the build thread that this was not to be a big project and by no means did I wanna spend this much money.
 
I aint saying give up, but maybe buy a new cam/lifter set that will work with stock springs. OldManRick mentioned retainer guide-seal clearance as well. This is snowballing on ya. Sorry but if it was me, I would sell the cam/lifters ya got and get a different setup. Sorry, and good luck!
 
.............That cam is way too much for a work truck, especially if ur doing any pulling at all...........do like Steve says and get a cam slightly over stock .....u will be happy then.............kim.........
 
That much force will scrape off a whole lot of lube in 3 to 3.5 revolutions. At this point your engine will need to fire immediately (likely 1 crank or less) on first start up to avoid wiping a lobe.
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YMMV with this comment...not trying to start a war or anything, but if it were true and verifiable, my 306 wouldn't have lived for 10 years with the 270H Magnum cam I ran in it. I spun it over at least a dozen times with the longblock together to set the valves properly (had some issues getting the rockers set correctly), so by that rationale, it would've been devoid of sufficient amounts of lube for at least 8.5 turns. If that weren't enough, the car didn't fire immediately...had the dizzy in 180* out...then had to deal with carb issues. Eventually it fired off and ran, but not until after an hour or more of turning it over then rechecking timing etc. All that being said, it was broken in as specified by COMP cams instructions, and had zero issues during the service life of that engine. I parted out the shortblock to different friends...and that cam still lives in another engine with a new set of lifters. And that wasn't the only time I've been in such a situation so I severely doubt my case was an isolated one. Just because you may not have the thick slathering of break-in lube during starting doesn't mean it'll wipe a lobe within
likely 1 crank or less
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, flat tappet cams are made of phosphate coated iron cores, not cotton candy.

Now, I do happen to agree that cam is a bit much for stock valvetrain for the aforementioned reasons...but Bad Sport is correct-that cam would still sell as a used item...it looks like a good grind for a street going BB. If I wanted to go hydraulic, I'd buy it for my 383, but I already found an Ultradyne 272 solid flat tappet cam...and guess what-it's used. :)

JMO...
 
I'm gonna call summit and/or howards tomorrow to see about returning cam for a more mild grind where no other changes will be necessary(valve springs, head work, etc....). I really am grateful for the input and advice. I will keep posting on how the build finishes up. Thanks again guys
 
Rumblin_440 said:
That was an idea I had kicked around but nobody is gonna buy this cam and lifter set after its been installed.
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Yes they will, keep the paperwork etc.

Bad Sport said:
Why's that? People sell used cams right here. Just be honest in the ad and describe what happened.
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I agree and in my opinion, this cam is still new!
 
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