I've learned sooooo much on this forum while researching the purchase of a '64 Dart, I think that with my past life as a nut buster, I can keep one of these babies purring until the next generation. I'm a babe in the woods when it comes to body work though. My third vehicle's inspection included these photos. I can't figure where the first pic is (Vert boot well?). The rest is the trunk. My latest question in my quest for a frequent driver is can a guy that can't weld service this kind of rust? The rest of the car has new paint, top and seats. Does this look like lipstick on a pig, or could I be the next in line to preserve a little cutie like this?
Looks normal for the year to me. No problem in the long run prepped properly. I'm fixing worse on my new brand "F" project car now.
In a google search I'm seeing comments about media spraying coal slag to knock off surface rust. Y/N?
best is to cut it out and replace it, but that isn't always practical. There are lots of products out there to "dissolve", "stabalize", or "encapsulate" rust. I'm sure you will get plenty of suggestions regarding miracle cures - experiences of others can inform your quest!
THAT'S what I wanted to hear! After looking at car #4, I was starting to think I needed to adjust my goals.
IMO, those are a pics of a car well worth saving...which is easy to say since it’s not my money. Rumor was that that AMD was going to stop making some of its Mopar replacement panels so I wouldn’t wait to long to get what you need ordered up. As for rust encapsulation- absolutely worth looking into. At the very least it can slow down the progression drastically and give you some time to make a decision on a permanent fix.
You guys are making me less afraid of the dark. I received the written report this morning. His comments were "surface rust in trunk". Someone else mentioned the pics look like no big deal for anyone living on the east coast and most west coast people would poop their nickers. In a google search I've found too many environmentally friendly products that encapsulate surface rust. Some make for agriculture and marine use. I think I've finally found the driver I can make better with my skill set. Whoop!!
if you got any metal left that is rusting and not rusted through yet, POR-15 is a Moisture cured Urethane encapsulant (thanks Bodyperson! ) that stops rust cold (need Oxygen to rust) It dries rock hard and can be painted. Use a grill brush and get most of the rust off the area and then apply POR-15. you'll never get it off so be certain you want to coat it.
20 years might be pushing it. As others have said, the rusting process never sleeps so the sooner you cut out the rusted metal the less metal you’ll need to replace.
I second the por15 recommendation. It's an amazing product when used properly. Learn how to use it. https://www.por15.com/POR-15-FAQS_ep_61.html I buy it in the smaller cans (4oz, six packs) as it is very difficult to keep from drying out once the can has been opened.
That first picture is a big issue. The cowl might be completely shot. My 66 looked not as bad in that area, and had to replace the complete cowl....
Mine was worse than that.. with some rust resolver gel, a wire brush, some new seam sealer and patience, it could look like this! mine is almost ready for paint.
As a newbie, I appreciate name dropping! What would a situation look like where a person would not want to apply this to surface rust? Is seam sealer a different product than the POR-15?
Por 15 is a special paint that stops rust when properly applied. Can be brushed or sprayed on. It has specific instructions that must be followed. I have used it successfully but I have had failures early on, before understanding the instructions. You tube is a good source use the search engine. This site is a great resource as well. Learn to search the appropriate forum topic and you will be gold.
Dig! I've been mining this forum while throwing money at long distance car inspectors for months now. Definitely a vertical learning curve. Finding the right search phrase still takes me a few tries. I can bake a cake if I follow the instructions though. Didn't know what side of an electrical outlet was hot and ended up rewiring my whole knob and tube house from the power meter in. Read four books and got a few tips from the local inspector along the way. Heated bathroom floor, 220 vt garage, the whole shebang. I'm sure I can do this if I don't make an early, major screw up in the process. And Loggato, I'm inspired man!
Hi Duggie, you say the car has new paint, and though a 55 year old car is likely going to have rust, I would be a little suspicious of a car showing rust through holes in hidden areas on a freshly painted car. Might want to put a magnet on the panels and rockers and make sure it doesn't have screen door mesh and Bondo for heavy filler; I like to use those free magnets that come in the mail with calendars from real estate agents and the like. I'm in your area, but don't have any leads for early A bodies, just some B Bodies. If you're still looking, perhaps you could check with some of the like minded people in Mopars Unlimited Tacoma for a lead.
Hey Outsder, I didn't know Mopars Unlimited of Tacoma existed. I'll look 'em up! I haven't' heard yet how old the paint job is. This car is back in Mass, and an inspector that does classic and mussel cars did the inspection with a meter on the paint. The owner is a collector, keeps his cars in a heated warehouse, and had this car - I think for twenty years. We're still communicating... The stuff he did do seams to have been done right. Other things like the trunk, he didn't think warranted his attention. I like a lot about this car; 4 on the floor, front dics, new looking anniversary interior, newer top, shiny paint... It's number four in my search for a driver that I can mechanically put around on. I was a flat rate nut buster a looooong time ago. Today, I dug out a volt/ohhm/tach/dwell meter that I bought new before electronic ignition was invented. Plugged in a new battery and the thing still works! Now if I can only find that worn out mercury dime to pre set the points, I'll be ready for this car by the time it lands in T Town.
Great tip! I didn't know this stuff existed. Guess I didn't need to know until now... With more research, I can do this. Another example of better living through chemistry!
USE IN WELL VENTILATED AREA. It has Isocyanates in it. I wear a charcoal filter mask myself. Especially if i'm spraying or brushing it in a fender well or trunk space.
Yeah, I'll either wear an organic filter or borrow a buddie's fresh air hood. I'm still reading about this stuff, but I'm wondering how you rinse the two prep steps inside a trunk or floor pan with only surface rust / no drain holes.
