Can anyone with a Wilwood kit explain this

-
killnine

killnine

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2014
Messages
249
Reaction score
17
Location
Asheville, NC
I've done some comparisons of the SSBC vs Wilwood drum to disc upgrade kits for my ride. I've got a 9" drum spindle, and I'd like the SBP and BBP interchangability of these kits. To me, the Wilwood kit wins out just because it's lighter, it's already poweder coated, and the rotors are drilled/slotted. Those upgrades on the SSBC kit would put the price a good bit higher. Anyhow, my problem is with the Wilwood 1/2" wheel hub studs. How does this work with wheels? From what I understand, some wheels are 7/16"? If some wheels are 7/16", and I assume some are 1/2", then why isn't this incompatibility even mentioned? Am I making a bigger deal out of this than I should? Are the only wheels that have 7/16" holes going to be the steel stockers? What's the deal here? I am running the stock 14" steel rims currently, and I haven't gone out and taken an exact measurement of the stud holes yet. Can anyone clear this up for me?
 
killnine said:
I've done some comparisons of the SSBC vs Wilwood drum to disc upgrade kits for my ride. I've got a 9" drum spindle, and I'd like the SBP and BBP interchangability of these kits. To me, the Wilwood kit wins out just because it's lighter, it's already poweder coated, and the rotors are drilled/slotted. Those upgrades on the SSBC kit would put the price a good bit higher. Anyhow, my problem is with the Wilwood 1/2" wheel hub studs. How does this work with wheels? From what I understand, some wheels are 7/16"? If some wheels are 7/16", and I assume some are 1/2", then why isn't this incompatibility even mentioned? Am I making a bigger deal out of this than I should? Are the only wheels that have 7/16" holes going to be the steel stockers? What's the deal here? I am running the stock 14" steel rims currently, and I haven't gone out and taken an exact measurement of the stud holes yet. Can anyone clear this up for me?
Click to expand...


your o.k. and it's simple. 1963-72 A-bodys were small bolt pattern which is 5x4 bolt pattern and uses 7/16 studs. 1973 to 76 and most all other moparts in this 60's and 70's B-body, E-body and C-body used large bolt 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern and used 1/2 studs. When you do your conversion you will need to upgrade you wheels to that larger bolt pattern wheel. What makes this conversion so popular is that wheel choices become 100% easier in all sizes. 14inch threw 20inch. Only down side is that if you had your heart set on running the 13' wheels offered on early a-bodys you will be out of luck...lol
Good luck with your build and I think the Wilwoods make a nice brake system. I am considering the same conversion to my 68 barracuda S....
 
I was gonna get the conversion for my 67 cuda, I have 15 inch small bolt pattern cragers on they have holes for either pattern but 1/2 inch studs how does this work?
 
You can use 1/2" studs with either big or small bolt circles. Same goes for the 7/16" studs, but there's no good reason to use them. I suppose there is a slight possibility that 1/2" studs will not fit thru the holes of some stock wheels, but I've never seen that.
 
7/16 stud was only used for small bolt pattern. if you go up to 4.5" bolt circle they will use a 1/2" stud. stock or aftermarket
 
mad-car-disease said:
your o.k. and it's simple. 1963-72 A-bodys were small bolt pattern which is 5x4 bolt pattern and uses 7/16 studs. 1973 to 76 and most all other moparts in this 60's and 70's B-body, E-body and C-body used large bolt 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern and used 1/2 studs. When you do your conversion you will need to upgrade you wheels to that larger bolt pattern wheel. What makes this conversion so popular is that wheel choices become 100% easier in all sizes. 14inch threw 20inch. Only down side is that if you had your heart set on running the 13' wheels offered on early a-bodys you will be out of luck...lol
Good luck with your build and I think the Wilwoods make a nice brake system. I am considering the same conversion to my 68 barracuda S....
Click to expand...

I am sorry. I think I miss understood the first question. I checked the Wildwood site and was surprised to see they have the rotor hubs in both 5x4 and 5x4.5..... but both with 1/2 studs... that does not make this a bolt in deal at all. Not only does this cause a problem with stock wheels fitting and or getting a good seat on the lug nut flair you also have the issue of doing something with the rear axles.
I sent a question to Wilwoods so I am eager to see what they say.
On a side note if I can get a set of Wilwoods in 5x4 to work on my 68 formula s I will become their biggest fan!!!:prayer:
 
So you have to go to NAPA or somewhere and get ten 7/16" studs. That's not very expensive, and they are readily available.

I put SSBC discs on my car and the hubs have both bolt patterns on them, and they include both sizes of studs. Maybe you ought to look at SSBC?
 
7/16 studs wont work in 1/2 inch holes? I may have to look at the ssbc.
 
Yeah what doesn't make sense is that the whole point of the kit is that it works on a 9" drum spindle. Why would I go through the trouble of getting a kit for a 9" drum spindle, with both bolt patterns in the kit, and then have to upgrade my wheels and tires to bbp? Wheels and tires are way more costly than just finding a 10" drum spindle from a 70-72 model. Then I would just get a kit for the 10" drum spindle, which is every other kit out there. Is Wilwood on crack?
 
Well, I went and measured the diameter of the holes on all of my stock steel wheels, small bolt pattern, and they are all larger than 1/2 inch. I then found a half inch bolt and it fit through them just fine, with plenty of clearance. So I guess the answer is that they used 1/2" because it's bigger, and it should fit most wheels anyhow.
 
mad-car-disease said:
I am sorry. I think I miss understood the first question. I checked the Wildwood site and was surprised to see they have the rotor hubs in both 5x4 and 5x4.5..... but both with 1/2 studs... that does not make this a bolt in deal at all. Not only does this cause a problem with stock wheels fitting and or getting a good seat on the lug nut flair you also have the issue of doing something with the rear axles.
I sent a question to Wilwoods so I am eager to see what they say.
On a side note if I can get a set of Wilwoods in 5x4 to work on my 68 formula s I will become their biggest fan!!!:prayer:
Click to expand...

Although my measurements say they should fit the SBP wheels, this is still a concern of mine. Wheels may differ, and whether or not a 1/2" lug nut will seat properly in a hole meant for 7/16" studs is the remaining question, regardless.

The holes in my stock steel wheels were about .552 inches in diameter.
 
I called Wilwood and the sales associate said the kit is designed to work with OE equipment so go for it. He didn't think there would be any issues. I guess I can put a 1/2" bolt through the hole and put a lug nut on it and see if it even seats very well. I am certainly not going to upgrade my wheels to large bolt pattern and still use this kit. It wouldn't make any sense.
 
Interesting in every Wilwood package there is a disclaimer about working on braking systems, they are racing brakes (not street?), hire a professional mechanic, etc. Kind of insulting to sell an OE replacement kit, then include these disclaimers?

Anyway, there is generally a lot of fitting involved with any Wilwood install. Ive done many, the 4-piston style mounts (two bolts to a caliper bracket, shim to center caliper) and the six piston mount which is a PITA fit generally. If you are uncomfortable shimming, grinding, and generally building their pieces out to fit -stop- like the disclaimer says.

There are much easier choices Mopar brake upgrades. Master Power has some no- hassle kits using both Mopar and other OE pieces. For my money I would stay away from the Baer and SSBC on Mopars.

Dont misunderstand me, I like Wilwoods once they are sorted out. Oh we havent covered bleeding the Wilwoods yet..
 
gen2hemi said:
Interesting in every Wilwood package there is a disclaimer about working on braking systems, they are racing brakes (not street?), hire a professional mechanic, etc. Kind of insulting to sell an OE replacement kit, then include these disclaimers?

Anyway, there is generally a lot of fitting involved with any Wilwood install. Ive done many, the 4-piston style mounts (two bolts to a caliper bracket, shim to center caliper) and the six piston mount which is a PITA fit generally. If you are uncomfortable shimming, grinding, and generally building their pieces out to fit -stop- like the disclaimer says.

There are much easier choices Mopar brake upgrades. Master Power has some no- hassle kits using both Mopar and other OE pieces. For my money I would stay away from the Baer and SSBC on Mopars.

Dont misunderstand me, I like Wilwoods once they are sorted out. Oh we havent covered bleeding the Wilwoods yet..
Click to expand...

I am fine with some grinding and fitting work. Please go on about the bleeding, I am intrigued.
 
killnine said:
I called Wilwood and the sales associate said the kit is designed to work with OE equipment so go for it. He didn't think there would be any issues. I guess I can put a 1/2" bolt through the hole and put a lug nut on it and see if it even seats very well. I am certainly not going to upgrade my wheels to large bolt pattern and still use this kit. It wouldn't make any sense.
Click to expand...
I'd be careful with that advice from a sales assocaite....easy to say 'go for it' if it is not your stuff; that individual may well not know crap about mechanical work and proper wheel fit, etc. Never trust such off-the-cuff info, IMO....

I would try to find, or ask for, the manufactured hole diameter for the wheel studs. For standard 7/16" wheel studs, the holes should be somewhat smaller than .565" ID. Of course, if you already have this kit, then proceed with a fit up and see; the issue is the taper in the lug nut not seating deeply into the matching taper in the wheel holes.
 
So I just decided to keep the SBP, upgrade to a 10 inch spindle and new spindle bolts on the front, and get the SSBC brake kit for the front. It has both bolt patterns, and both bolt sizes. Part of the problem for me with trying to go to BBP was that until I got the rear replaced, I was going to have to put an adapter on the back, which would have put the track width out 1.5 inches on each side, which would have completely knocked my wheel choices out of whack, and made it harder to deal with wheels when I did upgrade the rear. Of course now I'll probably be looking for a SBP rear when I do, and my wheel choices are limited, but it's all about a balance between functionality, what I can do now, and a little bit of 'does it still look good' :) Replacing the 9" spindle with the 10" was necessary because that's what the kit requires, plus I can use bigger bolts for the lower ball joint arm, which is nice, since rumor has it they are weak.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top