Can I cut down an OE biscuit mount if I need to?

[1970dartcustom]

WE have been having an EXTREMELY tough time getting my 383 to sit right in my '70 Dart. The conversion mounts from slant six with the Polylocs on them aren't working no matter how we shim them.

We really need to have less pad than more on the driver's side. The passenger side could use a quarter inch shim...

SO, can I cut down a biscuit on the driver's side???

This would result in about a half inch + biscuit instead of a 7/8...

I think that is the side we would use the torque strap, since we wouldn't be using the polylocs, would this make it okay to have like half a biscuit on that side?

Or is there something else I can do? Suggestions?

 

[1969383S]

You gotta do what you need too! On My real 383 I through bolted the driver side mount cause I got tired of ripping it. Those days are over so it has the standard mount now, at $100 bucks.

 

[ssba]

You could make a steel mount the thickness you need for the driver side and forget the tie down straps and rubber.

 

[Jim Lusk]

There's no way to make the mount thinner unless you cast the rubber yourself as the mount is metal on both sides of a thickness of rubber.

 

[pomonamissel]

is it a schumaker conversion kit , if so i had to twist the drvrsd rubb'r around to get all level . and there are different thicknesses on stud type mounts . if you any oem bb car then , good luck , hope you get it sorted out . my 69 gt w/383 was a fun driver .

 

[1970dartcustom]

You could make a steel mount the thickness you need for the driver side and forget the tie down straps and rubber.

But, would this cause a lot of vibration?

 

[AJ/FormS]

There's no way to make the mount thinner unless you cast the rubber yourself as the mount is metal on both sides of a thickness of rubber.

^^ that's right. But I guess you could cut out all the rubber and weld the two steel plates together. Keep in mind that the thinner mount will lower the engine AND shift it to the outboard side.
And yes it will be rougher,but, like said above, you gotta do what you gotta do.
What are your other options? modify the frame mount, or modify the engine bracket, or get the correct K.

 

[1970dartcustom]

^^ that's right. But I guess you could cut out all the rubber and weld the two steel plates together. Keep in mind that the thinner mount will lower the engine AND shift it to the outboard side.
And yes it will be rougher,but, like said above, you gotta do what you gotta do.
What are your other options? modify the frame mount, or modify the engine bracket, or get the correct K.

Well, I really do need it to shift to the motor to the driver's side as well as make it lower on that side... So, is there a way to accomplish this without it causing a ton of vibration?

Some sort of thin mount with rubber still in it?

 

[AJ/FormS]

I have driven in cars with solid mounts, and I didn't think it was that bad.
It kinda depends on how you plan to drive it.
For a DD, or especially, a long hauler it might not be the best thing to do.
For most other applications, I don't see it as a problem.
I'm guessing you're having problems fitting headers?

 

[1970dartcustom]

I have driven in cars with solid mounts, and I didn't think it was that bad.
It kinda depends on how you plan to drive it.
For a DD, or especially, a long hauler it might not be the best thing to do.
For most other applications, I don't see it as a problem.
I'm guessing you're having problems fitting headers?

Well, actually the whole motor is just plain crooked!
I think the k member may be bent cause no amount of shimming is gonna do the trick, and my Dad doesn't want the solid mounts due to the 'shaking and rattling" so, I just don't know what to do... We just rebuilt the whole suspension, I dont wanna put a new Kmember in...

 

[1970dartcustom]

See look

 

[AJ/FormS]

I see a bubble centered on the index-mark.
I don't know if that's right or wrong.
Turn the level around the other way, and compare.Prove your level.
Plus I don't see what you are referencing.
How did you level the car?
You cannot use the wheel openings.Nor the fenders. They could be anywhere
I jack up the rear under the center of the diff. I put a round steel bar across the jack saddle, on the vehicle center line, such that the car is able to rock from side to side. Then I equalize the LCA inner pivot heights with the T-bar adjusters.Then a stretch a bar across the cowl, spacing the bar up as may be required, with equal spacers. Then I check the bar for level. Some guys check the side to side level, at the core support. If the cowl, or the core-support, is not level, prove the back is level first.Do not use the wheel openings. You can use the leafspring rear shackle upper bolts, to a level floor.If you shift the rear, you will have to readjust the the front also.When all 4 corners are so leveled, recheck the cowl/core-support.
After the chassis is proved level, then you can check the carb pad.
But, I suppose you already did all that......

 

[mvh]

You could fab up a "through bolt" biscuit. The metal pad on each side has one hole (no alignment bump) plus an extra-long stud that goes all the way through the rubber block and sticks out the other side. Cut a piece of rubber to the thickness you need and drill two holes through it. Sandwich them together with the studs sticking through -- it doesn't matter that they are not bonded together like the factory biscuit -- the whole weight of the motor plus the nuts are holding it together. You will get some vibration through the bolts, but is dampened by the rubber.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I can see that working, at idle. And I can see that working under full power.And anytime the engine is not torqued over.
I'm having trouble with it in all the in-between situations.
But I think, that's not a big deal for a streeter, cuz a huge part of the time, is spent at low rpm, and cruising.
I think it would be a PITA for a stick car tho. I would run a Schumacher-type torque-limiter on a stick car.One end is rubberized.That should take the buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz out.