cannot get this engine to run

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I had the same problem with a key switch once when it wore out, you had to find the right spot when you turning the key back from the start position or it would die.

Also something to check is the bulkhead connection, since it was most likely apart when the restoration was taking place, moisture could have corroded the connections and may be causing you troubles.
 
Since you have had the steering column out and it sounds like the harness too.I would also unplug the connector at the column and check for a wire that is maybe pulled back in the connector,or a damaged wire,etc.Also check the wires in the bulkhead connector.
 
just remember one side of the ballast resistor is start...the other side is run...

put the key on run...check to see if you have voltage on the run side of the ballast resistor...if not..chase that wire back into the bulkhead...

where the ignition switch harness comes out of the column...you can check the start and run there also without removing the switch.


http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/elec/3.html
 
I will try this. I am going to kick my *** when I find this. I just feel like what ever it is will be so simple when it is found. we must have overlooked something. Thanks again for all the suggestions. I will let you guys know what the outcome is. Bill
 
UPDATE: woke up at 4 AM this morning and guess what I did. Yep. I went out to the garage, pulled the #1 plug, got compression up and set the damper on TDC. went back and checked the wires and I was one hole off. That explains the backfire. swapped the wires one hole and then I took a jumper wire from the + side of the coil to the pos. side of the battery and it fired right up. sounded great. unplugged the jumper wire and came inside and got a cup of coffee. I am a happy camper right now. didn't even go back to see if the thing would run from the key. If it doesn't start from the key, according to what I have read on here the problem is in the key or maybe a connection from the column. Is that the only place to look. The fact that I am not getting power in the run pos. I am going to wait till after breakfast to go back and check this. Tyler did the hookup under the dash so maybe he missed a connection there. Thanks guys for the help so far. Bill
 
Glad to hear you made progress. Sometimes you need to walk away from it and come back when you had some sleep just like you did. I know from experience how hard it is to work on a car when you are tired, pissed of and hungry, you cant think clearly :)
 
I have been watching this thread trudyduster and I am so happy for you :cheers: that had to make your day start out on a good note :coffee2: Congratulations to you and all the great techs in this thread :thumleft:
 
Double check all grounds,even grounds built into the harness(headlights,steering column)Just a thought.Good luck.
 
thanks. after breakfast, I am going to check to see if this runs off the key. I was so happy to hear this fire up I didn't even think to check that. It is a big job to take a car down to where this one has been and then put it back together in a little over a week and hear it run. We have just went too hard at this but we wanted to get as much done on it while Tyler was off on medical leave. He goes back to work on Monday. I want to thank all the techs on here. But I may need more help. Thanks, Bill
 
68383GTS said:
Sounds like the key switch.Sounds like you already did this.But leave your key switch in the off position.Then run a wire from the + on the battery to the + on your coil.Then jump the relay and it should start.If it starts you have a bad key switch,relay,or ballast.You already replaced the ballast so it sounds like the key switch is bad.And sounds like it cranking when you try and start it, so it sounds like the relay is good.
Click to expand...

Yup, hot wire it. If it runs then you have one of the problems outlined by 68383GTS. Probably not the relay though.

Jack
 
IT IS FIXED. after breakfast and a few cups of coffee in me, went out to the garage and started tracing wires down. something kept bringing me back to the ballast resistor. ran down the double brown wire that went to the + side of the coil and it also went through the bulkhead into the column. The blue wire also went in the bulkhead. I noticed when we put the bulkhead back together we had an extra blue wire that was hot. The blue wires coming from the ballast resistor came over into a junction of several wires and then went over to the ECM. I looked real close and it looked like it had been soldered to something. I stripped it back and put an alligator clip on one end and the other on the group of blue wires and it started right up. It seems that during the dismantle and reinstall, the one blue wire broke off of the group. I soldered it back on and adjusted the timing on the dist. and it sounds good. We just installed a brand new e-brake on this from the handle all the way back to the drums so I pulled it on and checked out the clutch while I was in there. It seems to be right. We are going to put the front end back on it this weekend and the windshield will be here on Tuesday. get all this on and we will be able to take it for a ride. I want to thank all of you guys who replied to this problem with the suggestions. I checked them all. I could not have done this without your help. I will update pics on the resto thread as we progress, Bill
 
trudysduster said:
IT IS FIXED. after breakfast and a few cups of coffee in me, went out to the garage and started tracing wires down. something kept bringing me back to the ballast resistor.
Click to expand...

Been there, done that, I'll never run a balast resistor again.
 
that may change down the road too. But it wasn't the ballast resistor. It was a wire that broke off in the line going to the resistor.that was probably my fault for being a little rough taking them out or putting them in.
 
Glad you found it, I had a feeling it was the coil run wire or a bad switch, just didn't remember what wire feed the coil during the run position, in most cases its always the simplest things that are over looked.
 
I PUT IN A NEW SWITCH DID FINE FOR A FEW WEEKS,,,all of a sudden it wouldn't run like you said..back off and it tryed to continue running..all the time the spring load position was changing..then the last time I tried it tasrted and the starter would nt disengage ran the bendix gear into a brand new ring gear...out it came .if you cant get it to run,hot wire it bypass the switch and see.j
 
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