i do NOT have a Hydraulic cam............ i meant that some of my rockers had 1/16th+ play in them,........... i just went to where it was seated for fear that the valves would stay open, i am not sure what cam is in it,
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t8/gullo53/DSC00159.jpg
If you don't know what cam you have, you just as well plan on getting something "you can use" and changing the thing.
For now, I'd set them all at .020". This is undoubtedly not correct, but will protect the valves from burning and won't hurt the valve gear.
BECAUSE THESE ARE SO FAR OFF, start by setting them "engine cold" then get the engine running well, set timing, idle, etc, and reset them HOT
Plan up so you can
warm the engine
remove one cover
adjust that side
replace the cover
re-warm the engine if necessary
remove the opposite cover
adjust that side.
Adjust the valves with the engine warm and shut down. You MUST get the cam on the "back side" of the lobes to get a correct adjustment. Do this by one of two methods
I use the EOIC method. This means:
When an EXHAUST valve starts to OPEN, adjust he intake valve on that cylinder.
When an INTAKE valve opens and is almost CLOSED, adjust the exhaust valve for that cylinder.
In other words, start on one bank, at the front. Bump / wrench the engine until the front (exhaust) valve just starts to move, and adjust the intake right next to it. Next, bump the engine until the intake you just adjusted opens, goes "over the top" and is almost closed. Adjust the exhaust on that same cylinder.
Move back one hole and do it again. Yup. Takes some practice.
An alternative method is to scribe marks on your balancer every 90* and use this chart:
And here is the same procedure as the above chart from Hughes engines. When they say "put a cylinder on TDC" it is the same as the chart:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/Valveadjustmentprocedure.pdf
If I'm setting valves at, say, .020, use an .020 guage AND one a couple or three thousands larger. You should be able to "get the .020 in" with some resistance, but NOT get, say, an .023 gauge in.
If you have ANY idea who made the cam, you might contact them. It might just be that they didn't MAKE all that many mechanical grinds, and could help you ID it. Why you did not do this when you had it torn down is beyond me.