Canton Accumulator ??

-
meathead66

meathead66

Mod Top
Joined
Jan 19, 2008
Messages
762
Reaction score
384
Location
Tinley Park Illinois
Anyone install one of these? Looking at the 2 Qt one. Which kit as far as hoses, valves and oil filter adapter is required? It's for a 69 Dart with stroked 400 high HP. From what I understand about these things is that oil is under pressure in the accumulator and is forced into the engine past the filter; what makes it go back into the accumulator for the next start up or is it the oil pressure that fills it so meaning you have to get out of the car and close the valve while engine is running? Enlighten me if you all could. Whats your opinion cause I had 1 engine failure/problem quite some time ago and builder blamed it on cold starting. Whether or not he was right I dunno but with the money I invested kinda want a little more insurance on this one. Appreciate all opinions.
 
I'm not familiar with the accumulators, but I've had engines go for hundreds of thousands of miles with just starting them cold and daily driving... I don't buy the cold start issue for engine failure, it sounds like the engine builder was trying to dodge the responsibility...
 
What failed, what was the issue?
It's an oil reservoir. It's got a piston compressed against air, so when the oil pressure drops below the charge air pressure(due to oil starvation typically), it pushes oil into the system to balance. You can also use them to pre-oil (or post oil I guess, say on a turbo), with the ball valve, either manual or the electric one. S/F....Ken M
 
If you opt for the electric valve, it closes when you shut off the car, maintaining the reserve oil capacity under pressure until next start-up.
Turn key, valve opens, pressure builds and then you start.

Doesn't do so much for valves and rockers without full groove cam bearings, but it's a godsend for mains n rods.

I'll install one if I ever build a motor that didn't involve a trip to pick n pull on the way to the parts store.
 
There more so intended for an extreme G situation, as in circle track use. Or to help save the engine in an upside down rolled over car on the track, for that few seconds that it's still running ti'll it gets shut off. For street use I don't see a need.
Edit. A turbo application could benefit from this on shut down.
 
Last edited:
Other uses for one of these is for a pre oil assistance start for a fresh engine. Especially the crank snout driven oil pump engines.
100_1701.JPG
 
Oil pressure refills it when it's running. It will "augment" the pump's oil if there is a reason for it to go away: cornering/G forces, a holed oil pan, a roller lifter out of it's bore... Get the electric switch.
 
I purchased one and plan to plumb in the back of the block. I have the electric valve and primary reason for purchasing was for cold start ups after storage or long intervals.
 
meathead66 said:
Anyone install one of these? Looking at the 2 Qt one. Which kit as far as hoses, valves and oil filter adapter is required? It's for a 69 Dart with stroked 400 high HP. From what I understand about these things is that oil is under pressure in the accumulator and is forced into the engine past the filter; what makes it go back into the accumulator for the next start up or is it the oil pressure that fills it so meaning you have to get out of the car and close the valve while engine is running? Enlighten me if you all could. Whats your opinion cause I had 1 engine failure/problem quite some time ago and builder blamed it on cold starting. Whether or not he was right I dunno but with the money I invested kinda want a little more insurance on this one. Appreciate all opinions.
Click to expand...
I have never used an accumulator. I wonder how many engines are cold started and never had a problem ! I think ur engine builder is full of ---- ! How could believe that ?
 
famous bob said:
I have never used an accumulator. I wonder how many engines are cold started and never had a problem ! I think ur engine builder is full of ---- ! How could believe that ?
Click to expand...
Which begs the questions
1. Why pull the distributor to pre-oil?
2. How many engines failed eventually because of numerous cold starts?
3. Have any engines failed because of a dry start? Perhaps low oil pressure, weak pump?
Whatever; I’m not an engine builder but his products are used by top racers and his reputation is tops. OK but he’s full of ****, if you say so it must be so.
Besides never said I believed him
 
meathead66 said:
Which begs the questions
1. Why pull the distributor to pre-oil?
2. How many engines failed eventually because of numerous cold starts?
3. Have any engines failed because of a dry start? Perhaps low oil pressure, weak pump?
Whatever; I’m not an engine builder but his products are used by top racers and his reputation is tops. OK but he’s full of ****, if you say so it must be so.
Besides never said I believed him
Click to expand...
gotcha !
 
For whatever it's worth... I run a magneto so I can crank the motor to build oil pressure before firing. There is a very noticeable difference in the sound of the rotating internals before and oil pressure builds.
 
I have one located behind the back seat in the trunk. It is hooked up to the key so all I have to do is turn the key and the valve opens. I turn the key on to open the valve and then I wait about 2 seconds for oil pressure to build in the engine and then I twist the key to start. You don't really need one on a street car but it does add some margin of safety or road racing or autocross. It is even a good idea for a fast drag car.
DSC_1665 (Large).JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top