car is stalling out in gear

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69dodgedart360

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i thought my problem was fixed but now it is doing the same thing all over again. the car when i first start driving it is ok i can leave it in drive and it is fine it wont idle low or stall. but after i get off the freeway no matter how many times i park it and let it cool down it just will not stay alive in gear. i am forced to throw it into neutral at every stop because if i leave it in drive it stalls out. the carb has been rebuilt, i have changed the manifold gasket because i had a vacuum leak and the cap and rotor have been changed and it is ok as long as i stay away from stoplights or stop signs but as soon as i get to one the car wants to die. i am stumped i am thinking its just time for a new carburetor because no matter what we with it, it never stays in adjustment. any ideas on what it could be? heres my build:

S.B. 360
ported x heads
Comp 284XE cam
Holley 670 Street avenger (6 years old)
MSD ignition everything
Edelbrock air gap intake
TTI headers

thanks
 
I have the same cam as you xe284H.I have a holley 750v.s,my carb builder drilled tiny holes in the primary flaps to help with vacuum and idle.It works,maybe give it a try cause these cams rob vacuum at idle.Good Luck!Oh yeah mines a stroked 340(372) dynoed at 452hp!
 
Try adjusting the opening on the rear butterflies. They don't need to be completely closed at idle. But, don't go crazy with it. They need to be just slightly cracked open.
What kind of timing are you running?
 
340_833 dart said:
Try adjusting the opening on the rear butterflies. They don't need to be completely closed at idle. But, don't go crazy with it. They need to be just slightly cracked open.
What kind of timing are you running?
Click to expand...

Agreed. No reason to start drilling holes.
 
Sounds like the enrichment circuit is wrong and a adjustment of the mixture screws is needed.
 
Incorrect idle adjustment.
Damaged tip on idle mixture screws.
Clogged air bleeds or idle passages.
Incorrect throttle stop adjustment.
Incorrect fuel level.
Incorrect fast idle cam adjustment.
Air-cleaner restricted.

One other thing, what power valve is in your car ?
Still the stock Avenger .65 ?

Holley is full of S**T if there carbs are bolt on and go. Pretty much like the rest of the carb companys. Everyone needs to be set-up properly. Every engine is different.

With that big of cam I would think you are around 6"-7" of vacuum at idle in gear. 670 Street Avg's come with a 65 power valve. This power valve would pretty much be on all the time,flooding the motor. Check your vacuum, 4spd in neutral,auto in drive, and then select the proper power valve. My guess is you are around 7" of vacuum or a 35 power valve.

7" of vacuum devided by 2 = 3.5.....Theres your power valve.

If you still have the stock 65, its killing you.
 
you go johnnydart.i was thinking the same thing. also are you sure that you have eliminated ALL of your vacuum problems(leaks)?
 
If the above still doesn't work, drill a 1/16" hole in the primaries, right by the idle slot in the bore, 1/4" in from the edge of the throttle plate.
 
sorry i didnt get back to this i havent driven the car due to the problem and started it up today for a quick spin and checked the forum and already posted a question :) the timing is set at 16 degrees or 18 degrees i have to check again. The power valve is a 5.5 and i was getting about 10-12lb of vacuum in park and around 6-8 in gear it fluctuates a lot! I dont think i have a vacuum leak anymore i changed the manifold gasket because it already had a leak at one of the plenums. It used to be worse but after changing the gasket vacuum went up so i think i fixed the leak. I think i am going to try a different power valve probably a 3.5 or 4.5. I am almost ready to buy a new carb.
 
A 6yr ld Holley should be rebuilt. It sounds like a tuning issue like the guys said. I have great luck with the Street Avengers. If it's getting near 6", then you should go lower on the PV like you said.
 
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