Car stops running....

[Gottalovemopars]

Alright here is a continuation of my previous post last week (fuel and air thread) of my 73 318 duster that would die while it was running- idle or driving.

The car will unexpectidly quit and there seems to not be a specific pattern to it (idle or driving on the gas or off). I fixed all the vacuume leaks that I THOUGHT were causing the problem along with the running too hot issue.
My new idea would be the wiring is causing the problem.

Like I said last week the car won't bog out or hesitate it will die so unexpectidly that it acts as if someone turned off the key.

Ideas?

 

[Bulldozer]

is this a 2 barrel BBD

 

[Gottalovemopars]

nope edelbrock 4 bbl

 

[Bulldozer]

what "new" parts have you put on it and what exactly have you done since this started. i commented in your other thread, but since you started a new one, lets start fresh. i will offer everything i can here. i have the same car, and basically the same set-up as you

 

[Gottalovemopars]

Great thanks!
Since this new issue (ie the car dying) came up all I have done was the thermostat and housing. Along with putting a new gasket on the intake manifold. Which needed to be done anyways to fix a gnarly oil leak.

 

[Bulldozer]

a couple of pics of each side of the engine with the air cleaner off would be a good thing.

 

[Gottalovemopars]

Sorry they are a bit small but hope this helps.

 

[BillGrissom]

Didn't somebody (me?) suggest that you get a multimeter and monitor the voltage at coil+, or install an in-line spark tester? That would quickly tell you if it is an electrical problem.

 

[67Dart273]

Didn't somebody (me?) suggest that you get a multimeter and monitor the voltage at coil+, or install an in-line spark tester? That would quickly tell you if it is an electrical problem.

Or even just "rig" a temporary lamp, such as a cheap radio shack indicator, small wires run up through the crack in the hood, wired to the coil+ and ground.

You can EVEN monitor spark the same way, thanks to JC Whitney/ Warshosky

They used to sell a POS "instrument" which looked like a tach, only it contained NEON LAMPS in a circle!!!!

What you did was, you wrapped each lead wire around each plug wire and the damn thing flashed as the engine ran!!! REALLY REALLY messed up the radio!!!


All you need is ONE RadioSh$$ neon lamp, 1 wire to ground, other wire wrapped around the COIL wire

An NE-2 bulb, like this:

 

[Bulldozer]

is this engine even running on electronic ignition? i see a voltage regulator but no ballast or EI box. just out of curiosity, how did your VR get way down there? mine is by the master cylinder next to the ballast and the box. have you tried a different ballast for kicks?

 

[72BBSwinger]

Wiggle the fuseable link coming out of the bulkhead connector on the firewall. Its either blue,red or orange can't remember but mine went bad and it would die unexpectedly.

 

[Gottalovemopars]

Thanks guys i'll give that a shot, and keep you posted.

Yup it is electronic ignition the ballast is just out of frame to the right of the master cylinder.

 

[Gottalovemopars]

My issue is now worse my CAR WON'T EVEN START AT ALL NOW!
Put in a new
Electronic ignition
Ballast
distributer
the key switch is 2 years old
Coil

Used a voltmeter and I have power from
Ballast to coil
Ballast to electronic ignition
Coil to electronic ignition
Coil to Ballast
and coil to distributer

Ready to drop it off at the junk yard if I don't figure what it is ASAP.

 

[BillGrissom]

A junkyard might give you $50 for it. If I lived closer I would give you $60, probably fix it in an hour and sell it for $3000. Electrical problems are the simplest and cheapest to fix, and there is nothing on a 73 Dart that should stump any competent mechanic (which I am not, but am an engineer).

Step 1 is the check if you are getting a spark. I suggested you get an in-line spark tester ($4 at Harbor Freight) and you have had time. Without that, go old school and disconnect the wire from the center of the distributor, leaving it connected at the coil. Pull the boot back and hold the metal contact ~1/8" from metal on the engine. You should see bright sparks when the engine cranks.

If not, disconnect coil- and connect a jumper wire to it. With the ignition on (don't crank engine), hold the other end on BATT- (or assured engine ground) for 1 sec. When you pull it off, you should get a spark. That is all your electronic ignition does, and exactly what points do. If no spark, you are either not getting power to coil+ (should be 12 V, dropping to ~7 V when you ground coil-), or your coil is bad.

I think the case of the Mopar electronic ignition module needs to be grounded. Don't rely on the screw to a rusty hole. Run a separate wire to the case. In fact, for testing use a jumper clip direct from BATT-. You don't need to keep cranking the engine to check for spark. You can remove the distributor and spin it by hand, but be sure to ground the body of the distributor. Also, mark the rotor so you get it back and disconnect the yellow wire at the starter relay so you don't accidentally spin the engine. Could be your pickup in the distributor is bad or the gap to the teeth is wrong. A new pickup costs ~$7, though you did get a whole new distributor. Indeed, you spent a lot of money on parts. At least you will have many good spares once you find the real problem.