Carb Heat Soak
- Thread starter Mcfarlrm
- Start date
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For the Performer and AVS2 use #9266 from Edelbrock/Summit/Jegs. Been using them for years.
Be careful as the performer intake is a spread bore. This spacer works but you have to make sure it is square before tightening it down.
Be careful as the performer intake is a spread bore. This spacer works but you have to make sure it is square before tightening it down.
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What leads you to believe you have a heat soak issue?
Are you sure the choke is functioning correctly?
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
I've had to use one of them under every Edelbrock carb I've owned, they also make an open heat insulator. #9265
Along with the Edelbrock 9266, I also recommend blocking off the intake manifold exhaust cross over. That will greatly reduce the intake manifold temperatures under the carburetor. Since you're in Florida, you'll see very little if any cold starting changes.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Cool Carb. It works. I’ve tried them all and this one is the only one that works.
Also, block the crossover off.
Also, block the crossover off.
I had their one barrel insulator on the 170 in Vixen before I pulled it out and it made a big difference.
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
The 9266 has a center divider and the 9265 is open.
Correct, that is the only difference that I noticed. Is there a reason to go with one over the other?
Jeff Seighman
aka jeffnmo
If you have an open plenum intake, single plane, you wouldn't want the 9266, the same if you have a dual plane with the divider milled down. But you can still use the 9265 on either intake.
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Yes. You match the gasket to the manifold that you have.
lemondana
BlackDart
Use a ThermoQuad. 
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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This can also happen if the throttle blades are NOT parked correctly on the Transfer Slots, or if the wet float level is too far out, or if the valve lash is too tight, or if the cranking speed is too slow.
I would have to see proof that the bowels are dry before I believe hard start with a warm engine is caused by carb heat from intake.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Happens all the time. It’s not news. It’s a fact.
Has nothing to do with dry bowls. Its because the carb gets so hot it starts percolating the fuel out the boosters and floods the engine.
Then pedal to the floor and crank.
I have never in 30 years of driving carborated cars had that problem.
How did our parents ever drive these cars daily 50 years ago. It must have been miserable
In 50 years I never had it happen until last summer. Hot day, AC on, when I shut the engine off it sounded like popcorn popping under the hood. Lousy gas is certainly a contributor. A Edelbrock insulator gasket was available at the local AutoZone. That seems to have quick fixed it, but a comprehensive solution would also include blocking manifold heat and installing a vapor return.Then pedal to the floor and crank.
I have never in 30 years of driving carborated cars had that problem.
How did our parents ever drive these cars daily 50 years ago. It must have been miserable
It's a more common problem the more ethanol the gas has in it.
It's the puppy pee gas we have now days. I run no ethanol in my 2 old cars and it's still an issue. Like S'cuder mentioned, I can shut the engine off and hear the boiling under the hood. I have a stock 2 barrel on my 318 and a AFB on my 273. They both will do it. If you let them sit over a few days the bowls will be dry. I really need to install a electric charge pump to prime them. The fellas that have done that say they work well.
Same here, E-0 gas in 90 octane only for the last five years. No pinging, just percolating.
If it's been more than a couple days since driving it, I fill the float bowl in the AVS through the vent with a little funnel. That way it fires right off instead of cranking it for 20 seconds until the mechanical pump fills it.
You "think" you run non ethanol. I've done some testing on it around here and there's still some in it.
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