I've had to use one of them under every Edelbrock carb I've owned, they also make an open heat insulator. #9265Looking for a good spacer/gasket recommendation to reduce heat soak on my carb. Current set up is an Edelbrock 650CFM AVS2 carb and performer intake on an LA 360.
Along with the Edelbrock 9266, I also recommend blocking off the intake manifold exhaust cross over. That will greatly reduce the intake manifold temperatures under the carburetor. Since you're in Florida, you'll see very little if any cold starting changes.Looking for a good spacer/gasket recommendation to reduce heat soak on my carb. Current set up is an Edelbrock 650CFM AVS2 carb and performer intake on an LA 360.
I had their one barrel insulator on the 170 in Vixen before I pulled it out and it made a big difference.Cool Carb. It works. I’ve tried them all and this one is the only one that works.
Also, block the crossover off.
Correct, that is the only difference that I noticed. Is there a reason to go with one over the other?The 9266 has a center divider and the 9265 is open.
Yes. You match the gasket to the manifold that you have.Correct, that is the only difference that I noticed. Is there a reason to go with one over the other?
This can also happen if the throttle blades are NOT parked correctly on the Transfer Slots, or if the wet float level is too far out, or if the valve lash is too tight, or if the cranking speed is too slow.Starts right up on cold start and struggles a bit to start after its been running awhile when it's hot.
I would have to see proof that the bowels are dry before I believe hard start with a warm engine is caused by carb heat from intake.
Then pedal to the floor and crank.Its because the carb gets so hot it starts percolating the fuel out the boosters and floods the engine
In 50 years I never had it happen until last summer. Hot day, AC on, when I shut the engine off it sounded like popcorn popping under the hood. Lousy gas is certainly a contributor. A Edelbrock insulator gasket was available at the local AutoZone. That seems to have quick fixed it, but a comprehensive solution would also include blocking manifold heat and installing a vapor return.Then pedal to the floor and crank.
I have never in 30 years of driving carborated cars had that problem.
How did our parents ever drive these cars daily 50 years ago. It must have been miserable
Same here, E-0 gas in 90 octane only for the last five years. No pinging, just percolating.It's the puppy pee gas we have now days. I run no ethanol in my 2 old cars and it's still an issue. Like S'cuder mentioned, I can shut the engine off and hear the boiling under the hood. I have a stock 2 barrel on my 318 and a AFB on my 273. They both will do it. If you let them sit over a few days the bowls will be dry. I really need to install a electric charge pump to prime them. The fellas that have done that say they work well.
You "think" you run non ethanol. I've done some testing on it around here and there's still some in it.It's the puppy pee gas we have now days. I run no ethanol in my 2 old cars and it's still an issue. Like S'cuder mentioned, I can shut the engine off and hear the boiling under the hood. I have a stock 2 barrel on my 318 and a AFB on my 273. They both will do it. If you let them sit over a few days the bowls will be dry. I really need to install a electric charge pump to prime them. The fellas that have done that say they work well.