carb replacement suggestions

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I had no issues hooking the throttle up in my truck.
It is a manual so no kick down issues.
I am pretty sure a member here davebonds got his kick down to work.

Do you have any pictures to show how you did it? I could have probably cobbled something to make it work but felt I shouldn't have to do that on a brand new carb.
 
It should say the part is needed in the carb instructions if they were with the carb
 
I don't disagree with you at all, but whether it's a squarebore or spreadbore carb, you absolutely can over carb your engine. The engine will use what it needs with that set up, but it may still be more than it needs. Just sayin. He's already bought it so it's null and void.

Chrysler used 800 CFM Thermoquads on stone stock 8:1 318s from the factory and they worked fantastic. The reason is because a Thermoquad is a hybrid vacuum secondary carburetor. That means although the baseplate is mechanical in nature, the actual air door that allows air into the secondaries is totally vacuum operated. In other words, it only opens as far as the engine demands. So it would not matter if the carburetor was rated at 2000 CFM, as long as the primaries were not too rich, the carburetor would only flow what the engine demands. A stone stock 318 will not need 800 CFM until probably up around 7000 plus RPM. That means it will flow much less in a street car that only sees 5500 RPM as a red line. You really should read up more on carburetors and how they work before makin senseless statements. Rumblefish was dead on with his explanation to you. The fact that you don't buy it is not his fault, it's your stupidity.
 
I don't disagree with you at all, but whether it's a squarebore or spreadbore carb, you absolutely can over carb your engine. The engine will use what it needs with that set up, but it may still be more than it needs. Just sayin. He's already bought it so it's null and void.

I just installed a DC mechanical six pack setup that flows a true 1050 cfm or so on my 365ci sb it totally shreads the drag radials and revs up quick! I don't put much stock in that old cfm calculation better to use common sense.
 
Do you have any pictures to show how you did it? I could have probably cobbled something to make it work but felt I shouldn't have to do that on a brand new carb.

Demon 625
I just bought the part # they had listed for Mopars in the instructions.
You have to unbolt the top of the carb to put the adapter on, took about 5 minutes.
Used a stock 4bbl throttle bracket, I did have to bend the stock throttle bracket towards the valve cover slightly, just did it while bolted to the motor. It bend pretty easy by hand.
Bolted the throttle cable up, no issues.
I cant help much with the kick down for an auto because mine is a standard transmission.

Starts really easy even after sitting for a couple of weeks.
Drove the truck most of last winter when the roads were bad and it started on the first crank at -15 degrees every morning.
 
It should say the part is needed in the carb instructions if they were with the carb
[ame]http://www.demoncarbs.com/Assets/docs/Products/Technical/LIT701rev10.pdf[/ame]

This link is a copy of the instructions that I had and it says nothing about the adapter you are speaking of. The tech help people at Demon said nothing about it either.
 
RRR- Thank you man. I thought I was sitting on my brain for a minute.
That fella, IMO, nevermind. Can't talk to a wall. When your convinced, closed minded, you'll never pick something up, never learn. That fact that the factory uses it on even some super lowley dead on arrival late 70's & early 80's car with a no pulse HP level should tell you something.

Next thing I'll hear is. "You'll drown it, wash the cylinders down and wreck the oil with that big carb on there."

EL5- tell'em brother! I like that thing!


Back on topic...

Sorry to hear Demon may seem to be up to there old selfs again.
 
I just installed a DC mechanical six pack setup that flows a true 1050 cfm or so on my 365ci sb it totally shreads the drag radials and revs up quick! I don't put much stock in that old cfm calculation better to use common sense.

Sorry, no 365cid will ever flow 1050CFM (but your carbs may on a test bench, one barrel at a time, then added up) Reason is it cant produce the vacuum to pull 1050 across 6 bbls. a six pack was actually rated closer to 770CFM on a 340. not dissing the motor, just physics. You get good torque because the velocity the 6bbls can produce. Read Vizard's "Super tuning carbs". Buddy had a Buick Wildcat with one of their large inch motors, it ran a 600 Carter stock! And it ran it very well. TQ's and AVS as well as QJ's and Predator all are demand carbs, forgiving on motor size, AFB's a little less forgiving and Holley Vacuums are adaptable with their spring setups. Holley mechanicals are hardest to dial in. 1200 CFM TBI EFI is another beast entirely, doesnt matter what it flows as it doesnt have to vacuum draw metered fuel.
 
Sorry, no 365cid will ever flow 1050CFM (but your carbs may on a test bench, one barrel at a time, then added up) Reason is it cant produce the vacuum to pull 1050 across 6 bbls. a six pack was actually rated closer to 770CFM on a 340. not dissing the motor, just physics. You get good torque because the velocity the 6bbls can produce. Read Vizard's "Super tuning carbs". Buddy had a Buick Wildcat with one of their large inch motors, it ran a 600 Carter stock! And it ran it very well. TQ's and AVS as well as QJ's and Predator all are demand carbs, forgiving on motor size, AFB's a little less forgiving and Holley Vacuums are adaptable with their spring setups. Holley mechanicals are hardest to dial in. 1200 CFM TBI EFI is another beast entirely, doesnt matter what it flows as it doesnt have to vacuum draw metered fuel.
you sure you know what your talking about?
 
You really should read up more on carburetors and how they work before makin senseless statements. Rumblefish was dead on with his explanation to you. The fact that you don't buy it is not his fault, it's your stupidity.

So I was wrong. I didn't know that tq's were designed that way. I forgot this was a forum designated for experts that know everything, and not a place for learning. I don't think my post was senseless, and I don't think it called for such a disrespectful response. Rusty, I've heard about you and you know your way around a carburetor. Rumble, you were correct. I was wrong. You guys satisfied? More petty name calling coming my way? Seriously, it's hard enough to find a decent forum to call home, but when a guy isn't 100% correct on a subject, let the flaming begin? That's a little disheartening. Cool, I learned something today. Thanks guys.
 
Do you have any pictures to show how you did it? I could have probably cobbled something to make it work but felt I shouldn't have to do that on a brand new carb.
heres a few picks of it on the center carb of course painted black, but you can see how the kickdown attaches also, but if you were using the new demon carb that is kind of like the old t-quad i don't know for sure. I see where on your PDF it just shows a stud like a old quad would use.
 

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So I was wrong. I didn't know that tq's were designed that way. I forgot this was a forum designated for experts that know everything, and not a place for learning. I don't think my post was senseless, and I don't think it called for such a disrespectful response. Rusty, I've heard about you and you know your way around a carburetor. Rumble, you were correct. I was wrong. You guys satisfied? More petty name calling coming my way? Seriously, it's hard enough to find a decent forum to call home, but when a guy isn't 100% correct on a subject, let the flaming begin? That's a little disheartening. Cool, I learned something today. Thanks guys.

Relax! Stop crying. Your not being beat up on. You'll know the differance. We tried telling you something but YOU stood on your horse high.
No worries, now pull up a chair and sit down and relax. Stay awhile.
 
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