Carburetor scoops do they make a difference?

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Shane, it will add HP with only allowing cool air into the engine. A scoop on the carb should be good as well. Use with a filter unless it is "designed" (Key word there my friend!) for use without a filter. Sealing the carb to the hood like Cudaspaz and 805moparkid did is the best and correct way to do so. (I also lovethe extra step 805kid did with the hood cut up for heat relief. (Though extreme for some of us street drivers.) Anytime you force the engine to breath fresh air, it add's power. Anytime you force the carb to breath in cooler air than under the hood hot air, it add's power. Having a scoop on the carb or hood and/or sealing the fresh air coming into the carb ensures max power output over hot underhood air.

These devices have been proven years ago on the race track.

As far as the above claim that it is just turbulent air, I can not say. Perhaps there using it wrong? I don't know.
 
These Edelbrockscoops I picked up here @ FABO are street designed units. Wile they could be used for racing, I think there limited in a all out effort. They are designed with a filter in mind.

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More pornsince it is a click away. The perspective "John's" for the scoops. Powered coated by Cudachick1968, LeAnna, in Alien Silver.

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diymirage said:
and....done

(well almost, I still need to buy some vacuum hose to run around the cut edge, so that it doesn't damage the pipe as the engine rocks, but for now, there is some electrical tape on there)

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it took a LOT more cutting to get the bottom of the holes to nicely follow the tubes, but 2 dozen cut of wheels on the dremel took car of that

what you cant tell from the pictures are the two 90 degree silicone couplers hidden inside the fender
these are pointed forward and slightly up to keep the road debris, kicked up by the wheels from being sucked into the engine
they may or may not also work as a little bit of a ram air intake
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This is what I did for cold air
 
Tested with the hood scoop not sealed, then sealed and made a big difference. Ran down the track with k& n filters removed and sealed scoop gained a good .10-.20 with good cool air. Hood scoop sealed is the way to go.
 
Or cowl induction and use a flat hood. Ram air and cold air. best of both worlds and keep the sleeper look.


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I got my scoop installed too, made a cake-pan air "box" and sealed it to the hood in summer but now I just run a drop-base open element due to the cold temps. It made a noticeable difference in not only power but it also made my intake temps way more consistent overall.
 
My Dart has a glass six pack hood on it, the air pan makes a difference at the track. When I drive it on the street I take the pan off and the engine temps are lower.
 
spl440 said:
Or cowl induction and use a flat hood. Ram air and cold air. best of both worlds and keep the sleeper look.


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spl440, you have any before/after performance numbers? I'm curious how effective cowl setup like yours is compared to the more common dual snorkel or hemi scoop. Cause I don't like the dual snorkel look on dusters, and the hemi scoop is a bit overboard so a streeter. I love the current raisin bran scoops on my car but they're non-functioning. I'm trying to decide if I want to fab something up for them, or something similar to your cow setup.
 
For sake of discussion, when we were redesigning the Force funny car injectors (what would be considered the "hood scoop" on funny cars; they were backed up with air by 60' off the starting line even with a SERIOUS blower sucking air out from below them. We did a lot of wind tunnel stuff with them, very interesting to see the airflow patterns around different arrangements.
 
LeftyJD said:
spl440, you have any before/after performance numbers? I'm curious how effective cowl setup like yours is compared to the more common dual snorkel or hemi scoop. Cause I don't like the dual snorkel look on dusters, and the hemi scoop is a bit overboard so a streeter. I love the current raisin bran scoops on my car but they're non-functioning. I'm trying to decide if I want to fab something up for them, or something similar to your cow setup.
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I do not drag race, I road race and a daily driver in good weather. On the street and the road course my set up is mostly for cold air, but it does have some ram air effect, just not enough to be a big factor. I noticed a BIG difference in drive ability and seat of the pants performance improvements as soon as I did the cowl induction. Smoother running, especially in city traffic with the a/c on.
 
spl440 said:
I noticed a BIG difference in drive ability and seat of the pants performance improvements as soon as I did the cowl induction. Smoother running, especially in city traffic with the a/c on.
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When there aren't hard numbers available, I'll take a seat of the pants dyno test. Thanks!
 
spl440 said:
I do not drag race, I road race and a daily driver in good weather. On the street and the road course my set up is mostly for cold air, but it does have some ram air effect, just not enough to be a big factor. I noticed a BIG difference in drive ability and seat of the pants performance improvements as soon as I did the cowl induction. Smoother running, especially in city traffic with the a/c on.
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Do you get any gas fumes going into the cabin though with that setup? I'd imagine it would be pretty bad as soon as you shut off the engine...
 
Why would you think fumes get into the cabin with that hood scoop?
 
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MOPEkidD-3 said:
Do you get any gas fumes going into the cabin though with that setup? I'd imagine it would be pretty bad as soon as you shut off the engine...
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No, never had a issue with fuel smell in the cabin. Even on a hot Louisiana day. I do use the fuel filter with the small return so no boil over.
 
We did an experiment on my 70 Dart for fun years ago. We taped little pieces of yarn all over the hood to see exactly where this big hole was going to get cut. After driving at all speeds... well. I never cut the hole. I'm not saying they don't work. But from what I saw... it was bad. Some of the yard pointed forward about mid way up the hood. It was very strange. That will take you a few minutes and a drive and you will think twice. I think cold air is the difference... not ram air. Many people think that scoop really rams the air. It's very turbulent plus it may even make a low pressure area in front of the scoop where the air jumps up over the hood leading edge. Try it. You'll see.
 
The early Direct connection hood scoops actually where raised about 1 1/2 inches to the opening because of of what is called boundary layer, so opening of the scoop was in less turbulent air flow. The cowl induction on my dart does have pressure, just open the vents going down the highway, that is what the carb would see. Also some factory scoops took it into consideration, like the six pack scoop
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Exactly, that's what the Direct Connection book (bulletins) say. IIRC the wide super stock hood scoops were also recommended but for different reasons.
Ram tuning ought to be accompanied by carb testing to make sure fuel curve stays flat.

Cold air is always good, but as mother nature is rather variable, the inlet air temperature and density will vary.

A good air cleaner base and top will make the air flow into the carb(s) more laminar. The bowl vents can be effected by wierd changes in the air flow at thier entry. Here are a bunch of Bowl Vent Solutions if needed. Also further explanation and a very cool picture of Anton Dunatov
 
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Interesting clip I saved from a forum about scoops on cars at Bonneville.

The formula for theoretical maximum ram pressure ('velocity head') is:
p = pv²/288g, where
p is the velocity head in psi
Þ is air density in lb./cu. ft.
v is velocity in ft/sec. (88 ft./sec. = 60 mph)
g is acceleration due to gravity, 32.2 ft./sec/sec. on our home planet

So for example, at 150 mph (220 ft./sec.):
p = (0.076 x 220²)/(288 x 32.2) = 0.4 psi (~11 " H2O), or about a 2.7% potential power increase.
 
Sevenfoe said:
My car is getting built as I speak at a shop right now, and I'm debating if I should cut my hood and get a carburetor scoop, does it make a difference in performance ? Does it really give the carburetor more air forced down to the intake ? Or is it mostly just for looks ?
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if you have a stock motor forcing more air in the carburetor will only make the motor burn more gas to make up for the air to gas ratio in your brain box, you might get 1 to 2 hp but your going to pay in the gas price at the pump ,the gas is doing all the work not the air, i use a MANUALLY OPERATED
scoop and hood louvers to get some cold air in and hot air out of the engine bay, with headers it get a little hotter then the stock manifolds, lets say a lot of work from cam to Performance intake manifold a 4 barrel carburetor to a supercharger. thats how it works not with a scoop only,,
 
it is a proven fact that a scoop in the air stream at speed will make the engine perform better . this is seen more than once at the salt flats and many other race events . but there is another factor , the carb or injection is breathing cooler air as well . from outside the engine bay .
 
harley51 said:
if you have a stock motor forcing more air in the carburetor will only make the motor burn more gas to make up for the air to gas ratio in your brain box, you might get 1 to 2 hp but your going to pay in the gas price at the pump ,the gas is doing all the work not the air, i use a MANUALLY OPERATED
scoop and hood louvers to get some cold air in and hot air out of the engine bay, with headers it get a little hotter then the stock manifolds, lets say a lot of work from cam to Performance intake manifold a 4 barrel carburetor to a supercharger. thats how it works not with a scoop only,,
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WHAT??????
 
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