carpet install...any tips?

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340wedge1971

340wedge1971

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I am going to put my carpet in tomorrow in my 73 swinger,everything is out(seats,belts,trim,etc.)and insulation is installed,anyone tackle this before that have some DOs and DONTs or maybe some helpful hints?.....Thanks...
 

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mine went in with no problems in my 1974 swinger good luck we did set the carpet in and let it bake in the sun for a day before putting evreything in the car
 
use 3m vinyl top glue easy to use since its a spray also use an old iron to help seal the bubbles out
 
Let the carpet sit out for a day or two before installing. I do the rear section first. If you're using molded carpet, make sure it fits snugly into the contours of the floor pan before making any cuts. The seat belt holes can be tough to find once the carpet is already in, but once you find them, put the seat belt bolts in a few turns so the carpet doesn't move.

When installing the front section, make sure you don't cut too much on the top where the carpet meets the firewall under the dash. I trim the sides first, then work on the top where the firewall is.

I'm sure there are some seasoned pros on here that have a lot more tricks. Good luck.
 
The sun is your best freind on this one. I have never had to use any glue nor would I want to. I might need under the carpet later and wouldn't want to ruin it because of the glue.
 
I let my carpet sit out in the sun for several hours before installing it and it was very pliable and easy to work with.

The easiest way to find bolt holes is to install the bolts before test fitting the carpet and feel for the bolt head. You can then cut the carpet against the head of the bolt. Then remove the carpet and take out all the bolts. When you re-install the carpet the bolt holes are exactly where they need to be.
 
Thanks for the info guys! The only question that stands is...with adhesive,or without!Hmmm...Looks like i will start from the back,test fit with bolts in and make cuts and trim on the sides first and watch the length by the firewall.Sounds like its fairly easy if i take my time,would you recommend having someone help,or is it a one man job?Thanks again!
 
Lay it out and let it relax, in the sun if possible....and leave it long around the edges till you know both front and back are placed correctly.

then spray lots of glue into al floor bends.
 
340wedge1971 said:
Thanks for the info guys! The only question that stands is...with adhesive,or without!Hmmm...Looks like i will start from the back,test fit with bolts in and make cuts and trim on the sides first and watch the length by the firewall.Sounds like its fairly easy if i take my time,would you recommend having someone help,or is it a one man job?Thanks again!
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I normally prefer to do it by myself. If your carpet is molded to fit the car correctly you shouldn't need glue. If it is generic carpet you might have to use glue. Maybe some double face foam tape would work if you hit a snag.
 
I installed molded carpet in both my Duster and Dart without glue, worked out great. As others have said, laying carpet out in the sun helps, I forgot to mention that. I went the extra mile after installing the carpet by putting some heavy landscaping cinder type blocks on the floor after the carpet install to help the fit--I did this on the rear section where the floor pan has two buckets between the hump; and also before I installed the front section. I did this in April, the afternoon sun really helped. I had my Dad helping, install went a lot quicker that way.
 
69dart340 said:
I let my carpet sit out in the sun for several hours before installing it and it was very pliable and easy to work with.

The easiest way to find bolt holes is to install the bolts before test fitting the carpet and feel for the bolt head. You can then cut the carpet against the head of the bolt. Then remove the carpet and take out all the bolts. When you re-install the carpet the bolt holes are exactly where they need to be.
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^^^What he said!!!^^^

DEFINITELY install the bolts before you install the carpet! Doing that there is No real way to screw up the holes.
 
I am the same never used any glue, just one thing though do not cut a thing till it is in the place you want it , i made a mistake one time and cut then was too short at sill mouldings .
 
I dont use any glue either. The seats and stuff hold it in place. I use a hot soldering iron to make the bolt holes from the bottom up. That's where the cinder block inside comes in handy.
 
glue???? why would you want to glue it down?



heres how i usually do it..

like stated already leave it out in the sun for a while.

put some kind of insulation down on the floor. the stuff that comes on the new carpet just isn't enough in my opinion.

lay the carpet in and get it where you want it.

seat bolts i shove a screw driver up from the bottom of the car to poke the holes. then i slit a cross pattern in for the hole and thats it. i don't cut an circle out or anything. seat bolt holes are big enough to feel through the carpet and i'll so the same as with the seat bolts only from inside the car.

then when everything is in the int and sitting where it should be i trim the sides of the carper and install the sill plates and kick panels.
 
I also never use glue.

•Just pull the seats and any needed trim.

•Toss the carpet in (and I do mean toss).

•Adjust for position.

•Re-install trim.

•Re-install seats.
 
I have done it just like this on every car I have done.
One exception, on some I put the carpet in in two peices and overlap them slightly under the seats.
Makes handling the carpet easier and the seam is under the seats.



abodyjoe said:
glue???? why would you want to glue it down?



heres how i usually do it..

like stated already leave it out in the sun for a while.

put some kind of insulation down on the floor. the stuff that comes on the new carpet just isn't enough in my opinion.

lay the carpet in and get it where you want it.

seat bolts i shove a screw driver up from the bottom of the car to poke the holes. then i slit a cross pattern in for the hole and thats it. i don't cut an circle out or anything. seat bolt holes are big enough to feel through the carpet and i'll so the same as with the seat bolts only from inside the car.

then when everything is in the int and sitting where it should be i trim the sides of the carper and install the sill plates and kick panels.
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I spray glue around the floor tunnel, it'll help keep it from shifting/bunching up...and mainly hold it tight, since a lot of these carpet kits are not all that great fitting 'fme'

but dont use any if u want, im just a carpet layer by trade...
 
Don't make any holes for the seats until it is properly formed/in position unlike you like making really large holes. A heat gun on the back side can help soften up the areas that curve. Careful with the amount of heat.
 
No glue for me. I insulate the floor pan, as Abodyjoe says, because the stuff it comes with is never enough. Instead of a screwdriver from the bottom, though, I heat a large nail or bolt red hot and poke it through and wiggle it to enlarge the hole enough. It leaves a clean hole and absolutely no fraying. any spots not accessible from the bottom, I find the hole with a pin, then push the heated nail through from the top. Works very well.
 
Just be careful not to cut the edges too far in. After its laid in. look at what you think you need to cut for the edge and add an inch. You can cut more off, but you can't add back in what you've already cut! :)
 
Mopar to ya said:
No glue for me. I insulate the floor pan, as Abodyjoe says, because the stuff it comes with is never enough. Instead of a screwdriver from the bottom, though, I heat a large nail or bolt red hot and poke it through and wiggle it to enlarge the hole enough. It leaves a clean hole and absolutely no fraying. any spots not accessible from the bottom, I find the hole with a pin, then push the heated nail through from the top. Works very well.
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I recall somewhere on the forums sommeone saying a soldering iron would work well for this too! I like the no fraying idea, so I will be trying the iron method.
 
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