cast crank to forged in 440

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Didn't mp used to have a bearing that pressed into the torque converter pilot hole in the crank. Then you can simply drill the crank oversized for input shaft pilot. No precision required.
This is true.
You can use a pilot bearing that taps into the torque converter register, and it works well.
The advice I gave was if the crank was out and at the machine shop, then would be a good time to drill the hole to the right size and then you have both options.
BTW, you can get a pilot bearing from your Mopar parts department that fits in the torque converter register, I got mine for a '96 Dodge pickup 318 with a standard trans for about 20 bucks.
it worked perfectly for me and after 5 years, still no problems...........
 
Fyi the 440 cast crank is a cast steel crank not a cast iron.


Not all of them are. There are many 440 blocks from later years installed in trucks and motor homes with cast cranks, and they are all as viable to build, if not more so due to casting improvements, than an RB block from the earlier years.
 
Not all of them are. There are many 440 blocks from later years installed in trucks and motor homes with cast cranks, and they are all as viable to build, if not more so due to casting improvements, than an RB block from the earlier years.
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Pardon me I could have said that better.
All 440 cranks that are not forged steel are cast steel not cast iron.
 
I was going to say - if the car is a toy (not a restoration) have the assembly internally balanced, use the Dakota pilot bearing assembly, and trim the transmission's input shaft and you can use the engine parts you have.
 
I have a '73 440 forged crankshaft with the correct balancer. About a year ago my mechanic friend rebuilt my 727 transmission & ordered a new torque converter. There's been engine vibration when throttle above idle, did the research, not supposed to have the 2 weights and plug since it's NOT a cast steel crankshaft so I rotated the torque converter and sure enough it has the weights and plug. It is ok to grind these weights and plug off vs buying a new TC without the weights?

Torque Converter Photo.jpg
 
Yes, you can remove the weights. I'm surprised to hear your crankshaft is forged steel being a 73. 440'
 
Yes, you can remove the weights. I'm surprised to hear your crankshaft is forged steel being a 73. 440'
My 440 is reportedly out of a RV (crammed it in a 73 Duster). The damper that came on the engine is the same as the 2nd photo down (#3614371) on this website Harmonic Dampers 440 Source.com and the counter weights on the crankshaft are rounded as can be seen in this photo. This photo was taken when I first opened up it up after who knows of how many years.

Crankshaft Pre Rebuild.jpg
 
I have a '73 440 forged crankshaft with the correct balancer. About a year ago my mechanic friend rebuilt my 727 transmission & ordered a new torque converter. There's been engine vibration when throttle above idle, did the research, not supposed to have the 2 weights and plug since it's NOT a cast steel crankshaft so I rotated the torque converter and sure enough it has the weights and plug. It is ok to grind these weights and plug off vs buying a new TC without the weights?

View attachment 1715979586
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Leave the drain plug alone.
 
Cast cranks are lighter than steel cranks because the metal
is less dense. That is why cast cranks often have external balance weights added, eg on the TC, to balance the assy.
 
Cast cranks are lighter than steel cranks because the metal
is less dense. That is why cast cranks often have external balance weights added, eg on the TC, to balance the assy.
I had to go snoop, yup you're right.
20220904_081927.jpg
20220904_082344.jpg
 
Are those weights with the external counter weights added on to the cast crank?
 
Both cranks in the pic have at least one balance hole visible, so I am not sure what weighing them proves.....
 
Both cranks in the pic have at least one balance hole visible, so I am not sure what weighing them proves.....
You're right, you don't want to be right? Here's a 145 pounder for you.
20220826_144012.jpg
20220826_141625.jpg
 
Just to clarify, is that a thumb up the *** gesture?
Inquiring minds want to know :)
 
Dam, you're good. Can't get away with nuthin.
Thanks, I'm spot on when it comes to thumbs up the ***...
But for me it's usually two thumbs....because I like to get a second opinion..
 
I'm confused. Should my '73 440 hp have a cast or forged crank? I think it was from a Road Runner.

Would a six pack build to basically stock specs with aluminum heads warrant the forged crank? If I cam it up at all, it'll have to have a near stock idle ( as a 440 six pack)
 
Six pack to stock specs would be fine with the cast crank.
Cast cranks do have some advantages over steel, all else being equal:
- they are lighter
- being less dense than steel, they absorb shock loading better.
 
Some of the RV 440 motors have 6 pac rods in them. About the only way to tell is to pull the pan an look.
 
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